Jono Bolton

I've ordered some new pots and wire and will nick the cap and socket from the current wiring and have a bash at rewiring it at the weekend.

I have an issue with a buzz from my P Bass. With the volume up full, and the tone turned all the way down, there's no buzz. With the volume full, and the tone turned all the way up, there's a bit of buzz, but once I start to roll the volume back down, the buzz increases, but disappears once the volume is rolled all the way down. The bass has two grounds; one to the bridge, and one to a lug in the cavity. Everything seems to be wired up correctly. The issue doesn't seem to be from my amp, or the wiring in the room, as when I plugged my Jazzmaster in, there were no issues. Any suggestions?

Good find. I have a Squier Classic Vibe cover and that measures an inch, but I always thought the Squier one was larger than standard due to the high mass bridge; possibly it's wider, or deeper, rather than taller.

A straight-forward request; does anyone have a Fender P Bass bridge cover and would be able to tell me how high the top of the cover sits above the body of the bass?

A friend of mine bought a Squier Bass VI with an aluminium neck from EGC a couple of years ago.

I'm looking to transplant everything from my Matt Freeman, so it'd be sunburst, gold guard, tinted maple neck.

Settle down now lads, you'll make me end up doing it.

The one I was looking at is sunburst

On the 10-hole, "original" pickguards, there isn't a screw beside the volume and tone knobs as there is in yours; there's just one screw in the middle of where those two would be.

Bugger. That's what was done to my Matt Freeman, but I was hoping to avoid having to do it again.

Does anyone have any first-hand experience of fitting one of these to a MIM Standard P Bass? I have the scratchplate, and had been looking at a MIM P Bass body I'd seen for sale, but my concern is the position of the screw hole between the volume and tone knobs; on my Squier Matt Freeman, the screw hole sat over the control cavity, and a plug had to be fitted to allow a screw hole to be drilled. Can I expect the same with a MIM body? The routing on a Classic 50s/Vintera P Bass is different to the Standards/Player Precisions.

I've never been a big user of nickels, if I'm not using flats then Pro Steels are my string of choice.

The alignment of the strings over the pickup is off on the D and G strings, but fine on the E and A. I've tried moving them around into different grooves on the saddles but it's not making a huge difference. I'd prefer to have just one groove per saddle anyway, but the Hosco was a good price and had a good rep.

It wasn't so much the different features available on a bridge, it was more of an "is the Kluson/Fender option really worth 4 times as much as the no name one" sort of question.

Are these all much of a muchness? I'm looking for a bridge for my P Bass; it's currently wearing a Hosco threaded-saddle bridge which isn't really doing it for me. Looking at the various options, there are cheap, no-name ones which can be had for under a tenner, or a genuine Fender or Kluson one costs about 40 quid. There are Gotoh ones priced in between those options, but they either have a curved base plate, or are higher mass, like the 201, which isn't what I'm after. The Wilkinson bridge has that awful logo stamped on it. What's the best option for standard, BBOT, single-groove saddled bridge, or is there very little in it?

I've got Dunlop flats on both my P Basses. The first set I bought has some sort of coating on the black silks so that they don't fray, but the second set, bought from the same shop, don't have the coating. I was a bit annoyed, because the coating is a great idea IMO.

1mm Blue Dunlop Tortex. I've used them for years and can't use anything else.