JPJ

[quote name='JimBobTTD' post='851357' date='May 29 2010, 06:58 PM']I use the Line 6 Relay G30. Excellent.[/quote] I've just bought the Line 6 Relay G50 and used it for the first time in anger on Friday night. Great sound, no noticable tonal difference and the cable simulator really works. Well happy!

[quote name='untune' post='810373' date='Apr 18 2010, 03:35 PM']I think this is the right forum for this question (I've not posted on here before so hello all ) I was just thinking if this was possible - I've just got a bargain on an Ibanez GSR200 - one of the older ones without an EQ - which from the serial looks like it was made in 2001. I love to customise things and I was wondering if it's actually possible to put a scratchplate (purely an aesthetic thing) on any guitar or bass that was never designed to have one. In essence, one with cavity access on the back rather than the front. Would the pot shafts clear the extra few mm that the plate would add?[/quote] The pot shafts may be long enough but if not, and depending on the type of knobs on the bass, just drill large holes in the scratchplate and let the knobs 'sit' into the plate. This works really well with the knurled metal style knobs, not so good with skirted or speed knobs. Also, attach the plate using double sided tape so that you can revert it to non-scratchplate without leaving loads of screwholes in the front.

[quote name='The Bass Doc' post='657147' date='Nov 17 2009, 05:11 PM']I'm pretty sure that's true. Greg Burman had a request from local eccentric bass player, the late 'Bumper Brown' to build a 4x18" cabinet. He duly did and found it would not fit through the shop door when finished. I imagine some part of the doorway surround had to be removed. Fancy standing in front of the cab when 'Bumper' wacked a bottom E! It was the 70s when flared trousers were all the rage so that's when I reckon the expression 'trouser-flapping bass' was coined.[/quote] Did that cab ever leave the shop? I remember there being a cab in the empty shop just before the Handyside closed down, often wondered why it was there?

Here's my 'first' Spector, just recently purchased from 'NickSpector' on here. She's a 35" scale 5 string Rex Brown in trans black. When I got her she was fitted with EMG 40P5 and 40DC pickups wired via two volumes straight to the output jack. This config was way too hot for my tastes and it was very difficult to get the pickups dialled into the sweet spot. So, with the help of 'Bassulike66' who was selling a set of the pickups as were originally fitted, I've restored her to the factory config of EMG Hz passive pickups and the BTS tone circuit. A new set of strings and a repositioned strap button completed the picture and now she's making the sort of noise I like. This is the first neck through I've owned and the neck profile is narrower deeper and quite 'clubby' compared to my other basses. This does make for a comfortable five string to play, but I need a longer strap, as with a standard strap its a bit of a stretch to get down to the bottom three frets. The only problem is, I now have serious Spector gas to go with my Status gas, Musicman gas...........

Here's my Roadstar MC924TV As you'll note from the photos, its a factory fretless with P & J pickups, three-way switch, volume, passive tone, active/passive switch and two-band (bass/treble) active eq. Bought around 1982 new, still produces a lovely fretless mwahh today, although the preamp does eat batteries compared to more modern basses. She has a three piece maple bolt on neck, which is probably the nicest playing neck I've owned. The body is two piece and heavy as a heavy thing on a heavy day

[quote name='Johngh' post='776945' date='Mar 17 2010, 08:05 AM']Hammy your a star. I bought the Epi because I'm in a Wishbone Ash tribute band. I'm getting grief from the other lads because I won't play the Epi due to the neck dive. I'll re position the button before rehearsal tonight and give it another go.[/quote] Just a word of caution, I wouldnt go for the option of using one of the neck bolts as this has the undesired affect of pushing the headstock away from your body making it seem an even long reach to the 1st fret.

[quote name='keving' post='776240' date='Mar 16 2010, 01:29 PM']The BK ones are still available [url="http://www.bkelec.com/Modules/MF100.htm"]http://www.bkelec.com/Modules/MF100.htm[/url] Or did I misunderstand and you knew that already but wanted something that was physically smaller?[/quote] Thanks for that, I'd read somewhere that BK had stopped manufacture, hence why I was looking for alternatives.

I'm looking for either a small form factor power amp or a power amp module (like the old BK Electronics ones) to mate up with my PJB Bass Buddy and a 4x8 cabinet for a portable home rehearsal / recording rig. Does anybody know if such a thing exists? Cheers

I use my 21012 the way Jorge intended, ie with the port at the side. Seems to work for me and get a lot of compliments about my sound.

LMII, absolutely worthless I'll give you a fiver and packet of maltesers for it, and even then I'm ripping myself off. Then again, it seems that they do change hands for around the £350 - £375 level at the moment.

My advice would be go for a bass with a 35" scale length as generally, in my experience, these have a better low 'B' than a 34". Again, neck through basses seem to handle the low B better than bolt ons, and split coil humbuckers seem to amplify the low B better than other pickups. I have four five strings (soon to be five) and the above is my experience. But as with all things musical, its a case of try before you buy and find something that suits you and provides the tone in your ears.

I used the punch factory for exactly the same reason, evening out my fingerstyle playing to protect the front end of my amp. I did have concerns over the build quality for the issues noted above, but in truth, mine never gave me any hassle. If I hadn't bought the SWR with the built-in compressor, I'd probably still be using the PF.

I'm pleased you've been able to find your answer from a stock bass. I had to build mine! I built this just before Fender launched the passive 5 string P bass. It has a mighty mite neck, a home built swamp ash body, bartolini J pickups and a Bart P pickup in the same formation as the Fender Stu Hamm. These are linked to a five-way strat style switch and a John East BT and Mid-stack tone controls. It can do anything from stock P bass, stock J bass, PJ, and even Musicman'esque. Really useful on covers gigs where you can dial up a different bass sound at the flick of the five-way switch.

3 tone sunburst, tort plate, rosewood board, dots not blocks, unbound = Perfect A bit like this: Which just happens to be my Overwater Funny thing is that the older my Overwater gets the more maroon the dark edge becomes!

[quote name='Musicman20' post='763550' date='Mar 4 2010, 12:41 AM']and I definitely want the best 'vintage sounding' 60/70s type Jazz pickups, but with the ability to go into a nice 3 band EQ...[/quote] Then you'll want Dimarzio Ultra Jazz pickups and a John East J-Retro = Sorted