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Andyjr1515

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Everything posted by Andyjr1515

  1. This looks the business - lovely job!
  2. Reduced to £350!
  3. Great! Well done
  4. Andyjr1515

    NBD!

    That looks really, really nice
  5. [quote name='JimBobTTD' post='1339359' date='Aug 14 2011, 09:52 AM']I'm no expert, but surely the Stew Mac will be 110V?[/quote] Hi, I think the router charic refers to is the router attachment for a Dremel 4000 (the latter which, as you rightly say, needs to be sourced in the EU). charic - have you forgotten the cost of the Dremmel in your calcs or do you already have one?
  6. That is just BEAUUUUUUUUUUUTIFUL Andy
  7. Hi Some of you may have seen this in the 'Gear Porn' section. [attachment=86985:IMG_1686.JPG][attachment=86986:IMG_1690.JPG][attachment=86987:IMG_1697.JPG] [attachment=86984:IMG_1661.jpg][attachment=86989:IMG_1706.jpg][attachment=86988:IMG_1700.JPG] It's customised from a new fretless 34" scale bass, stripped down and veneered in American Burl Maple on both body top and headstock, with unstained wood at the back. It is a gloss Tru-oil varnish finish - not as rugged as Nitro or Poly but MUCH easier to repair any dints and scratches. Not sure what make the p'ups are but I have upgraded the pots and it produces some nice tones through our band's PA. Strings are a set of new D'addario Chromes and it comes fully set up ready to play. I persuaded our band's main bass player (I'm the reserve ) to try it out and his comments were 'nice balance, decent neck, setup seems fine, sounds pretty good'. Also, the great thing about stripping down is that you get up close and personal to the timber! The original spec states Alder - but seems more like a harder wood to me...it is light but much harder than some of the other basses I've stripped down - this shows through when playing (and probably improves the tone) as you don't get any of the through-body vibration you often get with, eg Squiers and lower-end Ibanez's. [b]Reduced to £350[/b] (prior to posting on E**y at original price of £375). Thanks for looking Andy
  8. Hi charic I will watch your progress with great interest - it is on my list of next things to try. The stuff I saw that looked right was the Dremel 4000, the mini router attachment (Stewmac sell it in US but I think you can get it direct in UK too) a scalpel, a piece of wood with a slot in it and a jeweller's saw (with plenty of spare blades!). Mind you looking is as far as I've got so far Keep posting! Andy
  9. Hi Hope the attached help. This is the back of the control plate of my Squier VM Jaguar. [attachment=86803:P1030182.jpg] [attachment=86800:P1030179.jpg] [attachment=86801:P1030180.jpg] [attachment=86802:P1030181.jpg] The configuration has two stacked knobs giving independent tone and volume to each pickup. Note that the upper (viewed from the back) pot is volume-wired and the lower one is tone-wired with a capacitor on each. It's just the same as a Les Paul guitar except that each tone and vol pot are stacked on top of each other rather than separate and side by side. Hope this helps Andy
  10. The compromise is putting heavier strings on as above and set the saddles for your lower tunings and put up with the higher action heights at your 'normal' tuning. It is a comprise, though...
  11. Looks wicked! Assuming you don't have a multimeter or continuity checker...if you are not getting any sound from either pickup, the problem is likely to be the other side of the two volume pots. Start with checking at the jack-end - is it a sealed one or can you see the contacts? If its the latter, take the plate off, push in the jack, make sure the jack is pressing against the spring steel hot contact and make sure the tip of the jack isn't touching the earth wire (especially when the wire is scrunched up back in its place). If all is OK, check the wires fron the Jack to earth and the hot connection in the pot chamber. Check there are no hot wires touching any ground wires (again, particularly when they are scrunched up in place). It's usually something simple and its usually the jack socket!
  12. Looks great, Ross I've been caught by the knob trap too in the past
  13. [quote name='Batfastard' post='1334284' date='Aug 9 2011, 10:07 PM']Cheers mate. I think I'll leave the join as is for the mo. I can always fill it in at a later date. cheers for the advice. I can't wait to hear the Wizard Thumper and 84.[/quote] Yes - sounds great to me. Once you get the neck, hardware and strings back on, you will be stunned how good this looks Really pleased how this is turning out for you. Andy
  14. Hi V pleased you've finally got the miscreant to stick down It looks very good to me - and it DOES look a bit like leather! Ref the join - if you want to fill it, there are two ways I've found that works OK: Do a coating of tru-oil and while it is still wet, give it a good sanding - won't do the sandpaper any good, but the mush will fill the gaps fairly well. Then, when dry, sand it down again back to the veneer. Do that whole thing again if needed. OR - sand some scrap veneer to create a little pile of veneer dust. Add a little tru-oil to create a paste and use that, like decorators filler, to fill the gaps. Again, once dry, sand it down to smooth. OR - leave it. I actually think the dips and drops in a wood finish sometimes adds to the fact it is a natural product. Whatever you do about the filling, a number of thin coats of tru oil, sanded each time with v fine (1000 grit or higher) wet and dry used wet, will build to a high gloss finish that will bring all of the fabulous grain of the veneer and make it look FABULOUS!! Really looking forward to seeing the finished product Andy
  15. [quote name='JimBobTTD' post='1332508' date='Aug 8 2011, 05:22 PM']Files are here and the nut is now filed and ready. G string off and flatwound G on; the rest will follow when I get a moment - I am back at work now. All strings are going through the bridge and not the body. It is all so nearly finished...all that is left to do is intonation, string height, relief. Expect pics of finished product in 48 hours or so![/quote] Can't wait!
  16. Hi I'm also not quite sure what you are trying to do (not familiar with the '62) but is it like my VM Squier Jag - do you want a volume and tone for each of the two pickups? If so, when I get back at the weekend, I can easily take off my control plate and photgraph it for you... The VM Jag has two concentric control knobs - each with volume at the top and tone at the bottom to be able to blend either pup by volume and tone (bit like a Les Paul in middle postion but using just two knobs intead of four). Let me know and if I'm right, I'll get a shot Fri/ Sat Andy
  17. [quote name='jimbobothy' post='1331522' date='Aug 7 2011, 10:22 PM']Changed the battery? However I'm a simpleton when it comes to elasticery![/quote] I regard myself a bit of a techo geek and yet it was ages before I thought about the battery on one of mine Everything was sorted in 15 secs...after the 24 hours trying to work out what could be wrong!
  18. [quote name='Andyjr1515' post='1332167' date='Aug 8 2011, 01:57 PM']Hi Hope you managed to sort your edges OK. I generally use Axesrus for hardware, screws etc, although they tend to be more biased towards 6 string guitars. Stuff like pickguard screws ect they definately have and there service is excellent. Andy[/quote] That's what happens when you try to type while bouncing about on a train in Sweden That should have read ...pickguard screws etc they definitely have and their...
  19. [quote name='Batfastard' post='1331451' date='Aug 7 2011, 09:04 PM']The body will be given a touch up round the edges and laquered tomorrow. So I need to drill holes for the three pots. I saw a bass where the knobs were recessed into the body of the bass with a shamfer on the edge of the hole. Does anybody have any ideas on how to do this? Also need to order some screws for the bridge, neck and pickups, any suggestions of the best place to order from?[/quote] Hi Hope you managed to sort your edges OK. I generally use Axesrus for hardware, screws etc, although they tend to be more biased towards 6 string guitars. Stuff like pickguard screws ect they definately have and there service is excellent. Andy
  20. Hi This looks really great Although I've never made a Warmoth bass, I have made a W Strat guitar (wash my mouth out with soap and water!) and I am a real, real fan. Fits and hardware, etc are sometimes a pain because - even with a standard make - they are always changing, but the Warmoth craftsmanship is, in my experience, second to none. The W strat is my favourite (and I've owned & tried a few great 'standard' makes and models) I was really tempted to make a Warmoth Bass last time but instead decided to do a conversion. However, this has tempted me sorely... Andy
  21. It does take a while...but well worth it in the end What are you thinking of finishing it with? Andy
  22. Looks really, really promising Andy
  23. Hi I take it as a compliment that you (however misguidedly) followed some of my tips and tricks but I think it looks great Any help for the next stages just post or PM me but you seem to be doing perfectly well on your own...I'm really looking forward to seeing the end result I've got some things I've tried (some worked well, some didn't) to fill the grain so feel free to ask Thanks again Andy
  24. That is true craftsmanship but combined with SUPERB judgement of colours, shapes, effects and combinations. This is in another league to anything I've tried or even seen - it really is World Class stuff...the buyer won't be able to wipe the smile off his face for years Great thread and fantastic, fantastic bass! I bow, humbled, before you, master Andy
  25. [quote name='kurcatovium' post='1328231' date='Aug 5 2011, 08:23 AM']Come on guys, no need to witch hunting on either side. It's not that big deal, right? (Monty Python quote: ... but she turned me into a newt ...)[/quote] It's absolutely no big deal - small misunderstanding on both sides. Rob - shake hands and move onto why we're all here...MAKING MUSIC? Andy
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