Hi
This thread is in response to the very kind words from all you sweeties about my Squier VM Jaguar in Gear Porn. Like an idiot, I didn't take any shots of the work in progress on that one, but did for this Ibanez bass - my first attempt. I have since done two Strat 6 strings and the Jaguar bass - and they have all wildly beaten my expectations
I'll post this over a few days...
Firstly to explain: this is veneering with 0.6mm veneer over an essentially flat-topped design - it is not like adding an, eg, maple top requiring routing, carving, etc. This makes it relatively straightforward, requiring very few special tools and also doesn't affect the tone, other than getting most of the thick nitro / poly off which, in most cases, frees up the sound noticeably.
These first shots show the stripping, and the positioning of the veneer.
Shot 1 - the 'Before' Nice entry-level bass. Nice red trans finish. The seller was appalled that I was going to strip it all off
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Shot 2 - the 'After'
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Shot 3 - stripping. Probably the most difficult bit of the whole process. The only sensible way I've found (that poly is TOUGH) is an electric paint stripping heat gun and decorators' scrapers. The challenge is applying enough heat to get the covering brittle, but not that much that it burns the wood Not so critical on the top because that will be covered, but crucial at the back and sides as these will be clear coated. I always do get SOME burn marks, but the less the better as they take a considerable amount of sanding out and unless you want to end up with a cigar box bass... Also watch not to dig into the wood - same problem!
[attachment=83181:P1020259.JPG]
Not essential (and not used for this one) but a great investment is a standard electric sander. If sanding by hand, use a sanding block - the top especially needs to be dead flat Either way, next bit is to sand and sand and sand until all burns and finish have gone. Wipe it over occasionally with a damp cloth to see where there are still inconsistencies of wood colour. The grain ends are particularly prone to the dye soaking in
Shot 4 - done and never want to see a bit of sandpaper again
[attachment=83182:P1020262.JPG]
Shot 5 - the bookmatched sheets of American Burl Walnut. Very fragile in this state
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Shot 6 - using a newspaper mask to work out where best to position the veneer. Remember that your bridge and pups will cover some of this, so position for the best effect. Leave plenty of spare around the outside shape (at least 40mm all round), mark with a felt-tip and...
[attachment=83184:P1020264.JPG]
Shot 7 - ...cut it out! Standard long household scissors (wife's dressmakers are great until you get found out) work a treat BUT keep it flat, don't twist or bend otherwise it will split. Don't try to cut out the cutaways - the curves are too tight.
[attachment=83185:P1020267.JPG]
Next post, I'll go through how to glue without special equipment or tears (the crying kind) or tears (the ripping kind)
Andy