Andyjr1515

Hi There's a last remaining thing to fix (some sort of trim around the neck pickup to hide the over-sized rout) where there is a helpful debate going on in Build Diaries but this is the latest veneering job I've just completed. [attachment=85892:IMG_1659.JPG] [attachment=85893:IMG_1673.JPG] [attachment=85894:IMG_1678.JPG] [attachment=85895:IMG_1680.JPG] [attachment=85896:IMG_1681.JPG] It's based on a Custom Fretless bass which I then did the same stripdown and veneering job as described in my other recent post Veneering an Ibanez Bass - Tips and Techniques in 'Build Diaries'. The veneer is a Burl Walnut - it's like playing a Bentley Continental Dashboard I added a series pull switch to one of the volume pots so it now has two options - absolutely standard vol vol tone with the neck vol in the down position (standard parallel configuration) then, with the neck vol in the up position, it switches to the two coils in series, with the neck vol becoming master volume and the tone as normal. I'm delighted with the result. The Jaguar I posted earlier in the year is a definite keeper but this one will probably be put on the Basses For Sale (my wife recently pointed out that 6 guitars and 2 basses is too many seeing that, in her view, I can't play any of them properly ). If anyone is interested before I get it in the right folder, feel free to PM me. Thanks for looking Andy

[quote name='neepheid' post='1320132' date='Jul 29 2011, 10:15 AM']Bit late now, but convert it to rear routed and ditch the plate What about a clear, regular Jazz shaped pickguard? That way you protect your veneer and get to see it [/quote] Hi Yes - rear routed is best but this was the best fretless I could get on my budget. The Ibanez I did was rear-routed and that takes all the issues away! Ref damaging the veneer, it is - agreed - a much softer finish than poly or nitro, but it is also very easy to polish and repair. I use the Birchwood Casey Wax finish to keep the shine and, if there is a bad scratch, just rub a little more tru oil across with my thumb . Nevertheless, a clear guard's a great idea for anyone wanging it about more than I do!

[quote name='lobematt' post='1320156' date='Jul 29 2011, 10:30 AM']I'd give it a normal J pickguard to cover the gap around the neck pickup[/quote] Yeah - that was a bit of a surprise when I took off the pickguard . The bridge routing is fine. I might alternatively pop a trim on (a la Gibson humbuckers)

Hi there Thanks for the feedback. Like all these things, you get so close to something for so long that you cease to be able to see the wood from the trees (if you excuse the pun ). I did the full set-up this morning, played it and looked at it afresh and I think it is now in the category of 'leave it alone - it's done' I'll post some proper shots in Gear Porn later today but in terms of where this has come from: I bought the bass as a 'Custom Fretless Bass' from a helpful chap called David. He does the fretless conversion and set-ups himself and I was very pleased with what came through the post. The fretless conversion has been very well done and the set-up was spot on The pickups are probably basic but didn't warrant changing - but more about later I did the same stripdown and veneering job as described in my other recent post [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=142149"]Veneering an Ibanez Bass - Tips and Techniques[/url] The great thing when you do that job is that you really see the quality of the body and type of wood. I don't know what the wood is, but it is light but VERY hard compared with the usual Alder / Basswood, etc. The veneer is a Burl Walnut supplied by Freed Veneers - great effect and looks much better in real life than the photos - the central feature is a deep yew-like colour and not at all yellow as appears in the quick shots above. It's like playing a Bentley Continental Dashboard I added a series pull switch to one of the volume pots so it now has two options - absolutely standard vol vol tone with the neck vol in the down position (standard parallel configuration) then, with the neck vol in the up position, it switches to the two coils in series, with the neck vol becoming master volume and the tone as normal. I'm delighted with the result The series option doesn't significantly increase the volume (an oft-quoted criticism of this configuration) but gives a very modern deep boom bass sound. The tone control is very responsive and the tone options cover all my bases and many more. Whereas the Jaguar I did is a definite keeper, this one will probably be sold. If anyone is interested prior to me putting it on the Basses for Sale section, feel free to send me a PM Andy

Hi JPJ Fantastic! I'm really pleased & looking forward to seeing your pics Any

I get the distinct impression so far that the consensus is without! Now I can stand back from it a little, I think I agree that the pickguard is pants. My only remaining concern, I suppose, is that the Jazz metal control plate design seems to beg for a pick-guard of some sort. Round off the corners or leave it be? Thanks for the feedback so far Andy

Hi All I will drop a few more details about this latest project in the next day or so but first - an urgent question. Do you prefer this with: [list] [*]No pickguard [*]The shape of pickguard in the photos [*]A pickguard but a bit slimmer [/list] [attachment=85832:IMG_1654.JPG] [attachment=85833:IMG_1655.JPG] [attachment=85834:IMG_1650.JPG] [attachment=85836:IMG_1658.JPG] This one might be for sale soon - which do you think would appeal (if any ) to most folk? Thanks Andy

Here's a closer shot of the headstock. I never know whether I should put on a decal... [attachment=83857:IMG_1509.jpg]

Great stuff, Andy I love the 'get on with it and what the eye don't see, the heart don't grieve after' approach Great, great colour too. Looking forward to see how the finished article turns out.. I think the VVT option is by far the best, too. There's usually a 'sweet' spot with the bridge on full and the neck reduced usually to around 80% - you can hear it hit as you're turning the neck volume. I'm intrigued to see where the spot is on this combination! It should look and sound the dogs whatsits! Andy

Hi In case anyone wants to have a go at this type of thing, I've finished the thread on the techniques in Build Diaries - 'Veneering an Ibanez GSR200 - tips & tricks ' Don't try it on a prized possession, but if you've got a tired old faithful lying around - give it a bash. It's quicker and easier than you would imagine Andy

[quote name='Lfalex v1.1' post='1281568' date='Jun 24 2011, 09:56 PM']Some awesome handiwork on this thread. I'm particularly liking the way the grain is oriented on both the GSR and the (Fender/Squier?) Jazz... Here's an idea (or two) to steal; Lighter (coloured) veneers with coloured stains over "natural" bodies. Matching headstocks!!! Still awesome, even without those![/quote] Hi The Jaguar is a Squier Vintage Modified... I will shamelessly steal your first idea but, like the Burglar Bill I am, the second idea is already well and truly stolen [attachment=83426:IMG_1501.jpg] Thanks for the feedback!

OK - final bit. Fewer photos, but most of it is self explanatory (I hope!) Shot 1 [attachment=83410:P1020425.JPG] I use Birchwood Casey Tru Oil and their Sealer Filler. It is not an oil finish - it goes on like oil but sets to a proper gloss varnish finish (after a few coats - see below). IT IS NOT AS TOUGH AS POLY OR NITRO by any means at all, but, after drying properly is quite tough enough for normal use. The other great feature is that it can be applied indoors and repairs are a breeze First is to sand around the veneer join to ensure that all the veneer threshold is down to fully glued veneer. I use 100 grit for this but used gently. I sand generally ALONG the join line for two reasons: [list] [*]It is easier to smooth out irregularities in the line to get a smooth continuous curve of veneer [*]It is easier to remove ALL the PVA from the uncovered wood at the join line [/list] The reason that the latter point is important is that, when you varnish, any PVA will show as a white line. Any PVA still on the uncovered wood will show through as a white blob. You can see the effect in this shot... [attachment=83419:PVA.jpg] The great thing about using Tru-Oil is that, if you get something like this, you just sand it down to the wood again (v easy), sort the problem out and then just re-varnish. Once the veneer join line is smooth, PVA free and completely secure (either re-iron if it has lifted or, if it is dry of glue, sand a little further back until you reach the full bond line), sand the whole body with 300 grit, running to 1000 grit. Look out particularly for any sanding 'gouges' and sand down to a smooth even finish. Any seepage of PVA onto the veneer surface should also be sanded away Apply a coat of Birchwood Casey Sealer Filler relatively thickly with a brush - it is clear and behaves just like Tru oil but is thicker and dries thicker. On the bare wood, one coat should be enough to fill all the pores. On the veneer, there will be splits and holes. You have a choice: [list] [*]Leave them be - this gives a real 'wood' texture [*]Fill them - this gives a traditional glass smooth finish [/list] On the Ibanez, I didn't attempt to fill them (see below) [attachment=83422:Grain.jpg] Difficult to photograph, but the effect of the grain lines radiating out from the centre is STUNNING On the Jaguar, I did, because I wanted a '1940's rolls royce polished wood facia' finish. If you want it 'au naturelle', then just sand down the sealer filler back to the wood (300-500 grit) and then start Tru-oiling If you want it flawless, then I've found two ways of filling quickly, both involving mixing the sanded veneer dust with the filler: [list] [*]Cover an area of veneer with sealer and then sand the wet sealer. This creates a slimy mush which fairly effectively fills the gaps with veneer-coloured filler [*]Sand some veneer offcut, gather the dust and mix with a little sealer-filler to create a paste and fill the cracks and holes like you would a ceiling before painting [/list] Once filled, sand down back to the bare wood and veneer with 300 - 500 grit Now it's just a case of applying the Tru-Oil. Try it on a little scrap veneer, but basically the first two or three coats dry dull, and then subsequent coats dry gloss (dry time to recoat is c 1 hour. Overnight to be able to handle safely without 'bruising' the finish. Some folk apply Tru Oil with lint-free cloth, some with a brush, some with their thumb. After each coat is dry, sand with 1000 grit wet & dry wet to get rid of any brush marks, dust bugs or minor runs. I use a sticky tack rag after a thorough wipe down before the coats - the slightest bit of dust will show. It sometimes takes a few attempts but, if you can be as dust free as possible, one of the coats will be run free, dust free and high gloss - STOP AT THIS POINT!!! After a few days, any small imperfections can be Autosol'd out (but be gentle - the coating is not very thick) or Birchwood Casey Wax - able The result - a fabulous guitar that smells like a well prepared cricket bat [attachment=83425:IMG_1503.jpg] Hope this has helped / inspired. Ask any questions you like - if I can answer them I will. If any of you have better answers, I will happily steal the ideas from you Andy

[quote name='lanark' post='1276657' date='Jun 21 2011, 08:56 AM']My wife saw me looking at the pictures (of both the guitars you've veneered) and even SHE said that they were gorgeous.[/quote] My wife saw me posting pictures to something called Gear Porn and called the solicitors

[quote name='Bigwan' post='1278088' date='Jun 22 2011, 08:01 AM']One of the best threads I've ever seen on here! My ATK better run and hide. cos the sandpaper's coming out soon! Where did you source your veneer Andy?[/quote] Flattery will get you absolutely anywhere Thanks I use the dreaded Ebay - there are quite a few suppliers about on and off ebay, but two I have had good experiences with include Specialised Veneers and Freed Veneers. It is a case of keeping your eye out for some that comeup occasionally with a pleasing pattern or effect. The particular one used on the Jaguar Bass (I think its a type of Amboyna but not certain) I have never seen again. Nice examples of American Burl Walnut (used on the Ibanez) however, is fairly common Thanks for your interest and encouraging words

This looks great, Ross Is the colour natural through the varnish (esp the neck) or did you tint it? Andy

Any Yamaha; any Squier The great thing about companies who market v expensive models is that they simply cannot risk their reputation with a rubbish entry-level models. Within that, I have to say that Squiers are sometimes built to a budget but I have yet to play ANY Yamaha (acoustic 6; semi-6 ; electric 6; bass; soprano sax; alto sax; even a bloody keyboard!) that hasn't sounded, looked and felt like something hundreds of £ more expensive. Andy

Hi, Wayne Some really great bits of kit here. I've hankered after a Hudson for some time - this looks fabulous. Nice to see the Jaguar too. I assume its the Squier VM like mine? I had to sort the neck pocket out (it had been chiselled away at the body end!!??), but once I had and put some D'Addario Chromes on, it now sounds FANTASTIC. As you say, it's like a PJ on heat and with tremendous versatility and warmth. I am printing out your thread to try and convince my wife that this is the absolute minimum number of basses that any self-respecting musician should have Andy

OK - next stage - doing the actual veneering The equipment - a small sponge decorators roller; standard PVA wood glue; an iron; an old hankie or similar; a water mist spray; a disposable Stanley hobby knife A little known fact about PVA wood glue is that, coated on both items and left to dry for 1/2 hour, it acts as a very effective 'iron-on' glue. As such, the veneering is actually very straightforward Shots 1 & 2 [attachment=83219:P1020268.JPG] [attachment=83220:P1020269.JPG] I use a gloss paint 6" foam roller and standard wood PVA Shots 3 & 4 [attachment=83221:P1020270.JPG] [attachment=83226:P1020271.JPG] Apply a thin BUT COMPLETE covering to half of the body and one veneer half (remember which way up!). Be careful when you do the veneer not to press too hard - very easy to split at this stage. As soon as the veneer is covered, gently lift the sheet and spray it LIGHTLY with a fine water mist on the other side (I use a 50p travelling perfume atomiser from Boots). That is because the veneer, wetted by the glue, will immediately start to expand and curl. Wetting it on the other side, balances out the expansion. Wait around 30 mins until both glue surfaces are touch dry. Position the veneer carefully and accurately so the butting edge is bang on the centreline. Shot 5 Cover with a thin cloth (thin enough to let the heat through but thick enough to stop the veneer scorching. I use old fashioned handkerchiefs. Brown wrapping paper would also be OK) [attachment=83222:P1020273.JPG] Iron the veneer with a hot iron (max setting) from the butt-edge first and then fanning out to the edges. Be careful not to tug at the veneer or it will slide slightly out of poisition. If it hasn't quite stuck down, just iron the offending area again - this can be done any time and, provided you had full glue cover, will restick firmly. Shot 6 The veneer is now on, firmly stuck [attachment=83223:P1020274.JPG] Shot 7 While you still can see the pickguard / bridge holes, etc on the unveneered side, position the hardware and punch through the veneer to the respective screwholes with a pencil end or small screwdriver [attachment=83225:P1020278.JPG] Shot 8 I find it easier to trim each half at a time. I use the Stanley disposable hobby knives as they have a sharp but long blade. Due to the covering of glue, the veneer is now a lot tougher, but still can split. Wherever possible, cut along the body edge so that you are putting as little pulling stress on the veneer as possible. If a bit DOES tear, just iron it back in place. For the body edge I cut from the body side, using the body as the knife guide, using a gentle sawing motion [attachment=83224:P1020275.JPG] Shot 9 Trimmed ready to do exactly the same on the other side [attachment=83228:P1020276.JPG] The other side is just a repeat, except two extra points to note: 1 Butt the joint up as tight as you can and iron towards the join - as the veneer heats, it dries and shrinks. Ironing towards the join lets the veneer slide slightly to close the joint. 2 Before ironing the curve of the arm relief, give the top surface of the veneer a quick spray of water - it will start to expand and curve the correct way. Iron the veneer smoothly from the main body towards and over the curve and finally the flat part of the arm relief. Final tip is that, once trimmed, I run round all of the edges with the iron to make absolutely sure the veneer is well glued there for when I do the final trimming and sanding Next instalment will probably be towards the weekend. Hope the above is clear and of interest - any confusion just ask! Andy

[quote name='LiamPodmore' post='1276511' date='Jun 20 2011, 11:14 PM']Now if my GSR200 looked that good (And had functioning Electronics) i wouldn't have any hesitations about gigging it at all. Liam[/quote] ...and if I could play the flaming thing, Liam, neither would I

This looks stunning! Fabulous build

Hi Just to say, I've started a thread on Build Diaries which I will complete over the next week (ref the stage by stage process of the Ibanez pictured above) Thanks for the encouraging feedback Andy

Hi This thread is in response to the very kind words from all you sweeties about my Squier VM Jaguar in Gear Porn. Like an idiot, I didn't take any shots of the work in progress on that one, but did for this Ibanez bass - my first attempt. I have since done two Strat 6 strings and the Jaguar bass - and they have all wildly beaten my expectations I'll post this over a few days... Firstly to explain: this is veneering with 0.6mm veneer over an essentially flat-topped design - it is not like adding an, eg, maple top requiring routing, carving, etc. This makes it relatively straightforward, requiring very few special tools and also doesn't affect the tone, other than getting most of the thick nitro / poly off which, in most cases, frees up the sound noticeably. These first shots show the stripping, and the positioning of the veneer. Shot 1 - the 'Before' Nice entry-level bass. Nice red trans finish. The seller was appalled that I was going to strip it all off [attachment=83186:P1020236.JPG] Shot 2 - the 'After' [attachment=83180:P1020295.JPG] Shot 3 - stripping. Probably the most difficult bit of the whole process. The only sensible way I've found (that poly is TOUGH) is an electric paint stripping heat gun and decorators' scrapers. The challenge is applying enough heat to get the covering brittle, but not that much that it burns the wood Not so critical on the top because that will be covered, but crucial at the back and sides as these will be clear coated. I always do get SOME burn marks, but the less the better as they take a considerable amount of sanding out and unless you want to end up with a cigar box bass... Also watch not to dig into the wood - same problem! [attachment=83181:P1020259.JPG] Not essential (and not used for this one) but a great investment is a standard electric sander. If sanding by hand, use a sanding block - the top especially needs to be dead flat Either way, next bit is to sand and sand and sand until all burns and finish have gone. Wipe it over occasionally with a damp cloth to see where there are still inconsistencies of wood colour. The grain ends are particularly prone to the dye soaking in Shot 4 - done and never want to see a bit of sandpaper again [attachment=83182:P1020262.JPG] Shot 5 - the bookmatched sheets of American Burl Walnut. Very fragile in this state [attachment=83183:P1020263.JPG] Shot 6 - using a newspaper mask to work out where best to position the veneer. Remember that your bridge and pups will cover some of this, so position for the best effect. Leave plenty of spare around the outside shape (at least 40mm all round), mark with a felt-tip and... [attachment=83184:P1020264.JPG] Shot 7 - ...cut it out! Standard long household scissors (wife's dressmakers are great until you get found out) work a treat BUT keep it flat, don't twist or bend otherwise it will split. Don't try to cut out the cutaways - the curves are too tight. [attachment=83185:P1020267.JPG] Next post, I'll go through how to glue without special equipment or tears (the crying kind) or tears (the ripping kind) Andy

Hi Thanks for the encouraging feedback, folks! Like an eejit, I never took shots of the Jaguar as I was doing it, but I did do for the Ibanez so I will post something on the Build Diaries over the next few days. Although I wouldn't say it was easy, it is surprisingly quick and takes no special tools save for an electric paint stripper (and even that is just to save time). The veneering and varnishing I did on the dining room table (or if my wife is reading this, the fully fitted and remote from any part of the decorated house or carpets specialised workshop ) The challenge is getting JUST the right veneer. The Ibanez is American Burl Walnut - pretty easy to get hold of - but the Jaguar is an Asian veneer that I haven't seen since. The cutting down of the pickguard was a bit white knuckle (replacements only seem to be available from US) and the carbon fibre a complete experiment. Part of the learning curve was that the fibres, when you cut it, go EVERYWHERE and - of course - they are highly conductive I know the look isn't everyone's cup of char, but I've done a couple of Strat 6 strings too, and they look (and play) like the d**s b******s In these torrid times, there's no money in it, of course, but huge satisfaction

Don't know what the Mustang would be like but I'll admit I am a Squier fan. I have a Vintage Modified Jaguar (see Gear Porn) which, with a few tweaks, is fabulous. I would expect a Mustang to be just as good. The thing is, the companies who also make the top quality and top priced guitars simply cannot - and will not - risk their reputation by making rubbish entry-level guitars. As such, the low end Yamahas, Squiers, Ibanezs, etc, while built to a budget, are very very well made bits of kit. ~Bit of a set up tweak here and a hardware change there and you have a fantastic value for money result Andy

Hi - you're all too kind . Never realised bass players could be sweeties too On another link (Repairs) I describe that for the first one of these I did, I actually made a profit (although the Jaguar is strictly for my own use) I sold this one below (shown before and after) to a Nepalese Buddhist who plays in a Heavy Metal Band. Now agreed, you don't get one of those coming along every day but when you do... There are some tips, tricks and techniques but, to be honest, the most difficult bit is just getting the perishing original coating off. The attached (originally a red Ibanez GSR200) was done over a week with two weekends (and I have a very time demanding job in between ) If anyone wants to know the tips and tricks I've learnt, I'd be happy to do another post in the appropriate folder (Projects?) Andy [attachment=82873:Before.jpg] [attachment=82874:Best_1_smaller.jpg] [attachment=82875:Best_2_smaller.jpg]