Andyjr1515

D'Addario Chromes for me - love them.

Love the neck heel transition. The whole thing is looking excellent. I also have some hard evidence to use in discussions with my wife "See - you CAN do routing and sanding in the lounge!" Andy

Like the others, I have no idea what pickups would have been originally in this, but check the sizes of single-coil pickups such as [url="http://www.seymourduncan.com/products/bass-pickups/pbass/passive/scpb3_quarterpo/"]these Seymour Duncan ones[/url] . The dimensions are given on their website and there are other single coils that look a little slimmer. The alternative is to go for 'standard' pickups, but that will need the pockets routing out. Either way, you should be able to get some pickup rings that will both cover the holes and also fit the pickups. [u]Check the sizes first[/u], though, before laying out any cash. You could also go the scratchplate route, as hamfist suggests although it seems a shame to hide that lovely wood pattern - it's not often you see a one piece like that! This was one of my early veneering jobbies - the pickup rings hide a multitude of sins

Here's my tribute to Warwick's fantastic Thumb 4 fretless - it was my first full build and done for our band's bassist...I sometimes get to play it ...and yes - if I did it again I'd make a much better job of the heel...long story...

Crackingly good Likewise - can't wait to hear it

If you are adding to the stable rather than swopping, why not try fretless? I hardly play bass at all (I'm the band's reserve when the bassist wants to play lead) and then bassist switched across to fretless... ...to my utter amazement it took no time for me to be able to adapt. Yes - I have to look at the side dots, but as long as you can do that, it's pretty straightforward.

I've had to replace every one I've had...acoustics, basses.... It's the only bad thing I can think of for yamahas...otherwise I'm a great fan. Don't know why they still fit them

[quote name='ezbass' timestamp='1407859540' post='2524763'] My Ibby GWB35 started like this Then became this And now currently looks like this [/quote] Ooh wow! The final reincarnation is very nicely done.

[quote name='Chris Sharman' timestamp='1407858702' post='2524751'] I did indeed mean Jag. I was dropping my Jazz off with a hangover at the time I saw it... [/quote]

Does this count? It's a veneering job but, heck, it matches! It is on what was originally a black Squier VM Jaguar and is my current bass:

Looks a nice few pieces of wood - is the fretboard ebony?

[quote name='Dolando' timestamp='1407783177' post='2524023'] Haha, Thanks. I'm really pleased with it. To be honest, since this first coat, I've done about 6 coats and its got a bit more of a shine now. Not quite a gloss, but has a bit of a shine and I'm not sure I want a full gloss finish. [/quote] To be honest, I've never found that Tru-Oil ever does go what I would call 'full-gloss' - it always does have a slight satin look about it once it completely dries. It's going to look a stunning bass when all assembled!

[quote name='Chris Sharman' timestamp='1407763799' post='2523698'] ...and I can vouch for Andy's work having seen the Jazz in person last night. It looks better in the flesh (wood?) if that were possible. [/quote] Thanks, Chris! (And Chris meant Jag, not Jazz) Andy

[quote name='Meddle' timestamp='1407705811' post='2523265'] Whoa. These basses are 'reskinned' then? Amazing work. Do you sand the front off them and veneer them or what? [/quote] Hi and yes - all the above are standard entry-level or mid range basses with the finish taken off, veneered on the top and then re-varnished Usually, the biggest challenge is getting the existing coating off in the first place!

[quote name='Lorne' timestamp='1407747927' post='2523468'] Most of you probably won't like this, but anyway I have always been a fan of a particular bass, and the original sold for $5000 3 months before I joined the internet, and I actually had the money to buy it back then as well !!!! [font=Calibri]So roll forward a few years and I buy a brand new 2007 one, and it cost a LOT, and was too nice to turn into a replica, but then I found a 1994 USA Handmade, cheap, that someone had aready altered, it's the one on the left[/font] [font=Calibri]I had inlays cut for me, got Grover Titans and a Chrome Badass II for it, and I hand cut the 16 pieces of Brass and had them Chromed, Chris Eccleshall ballsed up the rest, inlays don't touch at the tips, headstock overlay is 2 pieces not one, and it is 2 different colour blacks![/font] [font=Calibri]The Finished article[/font] [/quote] Stunning!

[quote name='dannybuoy' timestamp='1407435734' post='2520572'] I love this and want the same done to my RBX270F! [/quote] Thanks dannybouy ! Well, for a mere king's ransom.... Seriously, I'm pretty sure I've still got some of the same veneer. Drop me a PM if you want to explore the options...

Beautiful!

Really, really smart . Great job

I look forward to seeing the photos - I think it's going to look tremendous

[quote name='Dolando' timestamp='1407436860' post='2520580'] The Plastic Coating worked and I had good results, I just wasn't happy with the dye finish I did. I'm much happier with the new finish. Yea, I read up a lot on what works with what, but its always best to test anyway. I've been told tru oil over dye usually causes it to run, but I will be testing it first. I may have to resort to spray cans if not. I've done a few spray can finishes with good results, so I'm ok with that. Oh and thanks for the inspiration, thats a lovely looking bass. [/quote] Although I use truoil less now, I don't recall ever having the dye run or leach as long as it has properly soaked into the wood (which yours will have done or it would have all gone with the sanding!) and is fully dry. Try it first on a bit of scrap - but obviously make sure the dye is properly soaked in and dry before you apply the truoil.

[quote name='Jus Lukin' timestamp='1407149087' post='2517710'] My modified Telecaster Bass... [/quote] That's a significant number of pickup sound options!!! Does it sound as good as it looks?

Yes - I agree with Roland. Necks are generally much easier to sand down than bodies and are also usually as hard as nails (except mahogany ones) so you can stop with the coarse in time as you get down to the wood. Take care with the binding - ever so easy to sand too quickly as it is usually MUCH softer than the wood. Pics?

[quote name='Wil' timestamp='1407228508' post='2518448'] I havent really looked that far into using binding, but I did read this which made me think it would be possible to do after the fretwork - http://www.stewmac.com/How-To/Online_Resources/Binding/How_to_bind_a_fretboard_Gibson-style.html Really I'm not fussed on the look of binding, I just figure it'll look neater than my slightly wonky fret tangs and slightly-too-deep-in-places-but-now-filled-with-superglue fret slots [/quote] Hi Wil The trouble is that the neck ends up wider than the frets. Some people are ok with that but some find it very off putting. Also, you will have a chamfered edge where it blends into the neck. With a decent edge filing of the fret ends, I'm sure it will look fine :-)

Glad this is back on the go! It is looking great. Your accuracy ref your planing is more than impressive. What's the weight like? Your comment about binding - body or fretboard? The former I would have thought unnecessary, the latter pretty impossible with frets already in and, again, don't think you need it Keep the thread going - it's brilliant! Andy

[quote name='antnee' timestamp='1407007699' post='2516669'] Holy shikaka. That is the best looking Fender I've seen. [/quote] Thanks Andy