Andyjr1515

You could be my PR man :-) I presume you know that's one of mine...

[quote name='Kev' timestamp='1413584688' post='2580000'] Okay, the headstock may be a little wonky, but otherwise that looks fantastic!! [/quote] Just making sure no one could ever try to pass it off as the real thing.... Mind you, Pete, who I made it for, is apparently going to have it buried with him :-)

[quote name='Kev' timestamp='1413575517' post='2579855'] I'v obviously made it seem more complicated than it is! Don't have a photo as I don't have a bass with W locks at the moment, but:- 1. Put strap on bass as you normally would without strap locks. 2. Then, click the strap locks into the button as your normally would if they were fitted to the strap And that is all I mean. So the strap (and the weight of the bass) is actually on the buttons and not on the lock itself. [/quote] Ah! So using the strap lock like a mechanical Grolsh washer?

It has to be the design... To my shame, I've never tried a real one, but I made our band's 'main' bassist (I'm the spare) a tribute to Jack Bruce's fabulous Warwick signature fretless. I am sure my building skills are not a patch on Warwick's and the EQ is a Seymour Duncan 3 stage rather than an MEC, but the rest of the materials and hardware are pretty much the same. It feels divine on the strap. As others have said, the body is really small but the bubinga weighs a tonne so it balances beautifully (mine's a thru-neck). The curve of the body makes it sit just right and the fretboard and neck is like playing a top quality cello. Added to that, even with the SD EQ, it sounds - what's the word - wholesome! Has to be the density of the wood (yup, I know...the wood can't make a discernible difference,etc,etc). I can only assume a real Warwick Thumb 4 NT fretless is a world-beater. As they say, what's good enough for Jack... My poor attempt at a tribute is here:

Bit more progress this evening - I'll post some shots tomorrow:[list] [*]The ebony dust /epoxy repair for the neck dint didn't hold well enough (it's a very small dint and there wasn't enough of a key to make it bond well enough) so I used my next favourite - ebony dust and superglue. Basically a tiny drop of superglue into the dint, covered by ebony dust and squeezed into the glue and dent. Let it set then micro-mesh down to smooth. Not quite invisible but now it cannot be felt at all. [*]Fretboard scraped clean with a one-sided razor-blade, micro-meshed smooth, oiled, cleaned, oiled and buffed - looks beautiful [*]Frets polished with 2400, then 4000 then 6000 micro mesh [/list]

Hi, PlungerModerno Well - if it came out anything like that I think both Bryan and I would be eating our respective hats ...but yes, conceptually that kind of thing but with a fancier veneer underneath (and a less perfect finish on top!). The veneers that Bryan has chosen are both stunning so, if either works, it should be quite something. The choice is also Tru-oil to give more of a satin look and quicker to 'age' naturally. I think you'll be really pleased with the micro-mesh - it's so much better to use than normal wet and dry for the kinds of things you're talking about. Thanks for following the thread! Andy

Ah - misunderstood... I think you might be right. There are some effects which are already multi-effects but I think you are right, you can only use one of the various selections on the knob at a time. It's like the modelling amps - my Vox Valvetronix is the same. It's a twist knob for the effects like the pod with choices of various single or pre-set multi effects but you can only use one choice at any one time What you're after, if I've understood correctly, is an effects chain. I think these only started coming in with the newer generations of pedals Andy

Veneers are ordered; new ink samples received and look promising; frets confirmed as level and polishing started; ebony/epoxy dint fill on the back of the neck will be tried this evening; primer and touch-up paint for the top edge of the headstock should be able to be bought in the morning...nothing much to show but pleasing progress all the same

Does this not do the trick. Paul? 1. Get an amp or effect you love happening on your POD. 2. Hold Save, and press Manual. Save, Manual, A, and B lights flash. 3. Use Up/Down arrows to select A (Amps) or B (Effects). 4. Press Save to complete the deed. It's from section 6.4 onwards[url="http://line6.com/data/6/0a060b316ac34f0593e5054cc/application/pdf/Bass%20POD%20User%20Manual%20-%20English%20.pdf"] in the manual[/url]...I'm sure what you are trying to achieve is do-able Andy

..but back to the thread ...do you know which model it is, mentalextra? If it has block inlays, it will definitely be long scale. If it has dots, it could be either (the 'special' is 34" and the 'special SS' is shortscale) ...and have you bought it yet???

[quote name='DrBike' timestamp='1413469443' post='2578556'] Aren't Jaguar basses short scale? (rinses mouth out with soap and water) IGMC [/quote] The 'Vintage Modified Jaguar Special SS' is - it is 30" The normal 'Vintage Modified Jaguar Bass (wot mine is) is 34"

[quote name='mentalextra' timestamp='1413466544' post='2578506'] ...... noticed a Fender Squier 'Jaguar' bass. Had some age to it, looked like it had been played; ie the 'newness' had worn off. The ticket said £99, got a feeling they might take an offer? But do I [s]need[/s] want it? [/quote] Even to ask that question, you KNOW you do. I love mine...

[quote name='HowieBass' timestamp='1413460540' post='2578415'] I think I'm about as excited as you and Bryan are in seeing this bass reborn [/quote] Great, isn't it! It's why this could never be much more than a breakeven hobby for me....I just love trying to make things better than they were :-)

Here's the headstock. Still some vestiges of the over-varnish (bottom edge) but 'satin-ing' up nicely: And here's the back: Still a lot of work to do with the neck. There are a few dints that I will ignore, but one deep one that you feel as you run your thumb up the fretboard. A couple of ways this can be tackled, but I will first try the method I use to hide inlay gaps in ebony. I mix ebony dust (collected last time I radiused an ebony fretboard) into epoxy and then fill the dint with that. Once it's been sanded with micro-mesh, it should be pretty invisible.

A bit more progress. Bryan and I have agreed the strategy for the veneer choice and colour tone. We are going to trial two veneers - I won't reveal either of them until we're happy with one of them and the actual veneering is on the way. It's a new supplier for me - shipped from Germany and one that Bryan tracked down. I'm ordering some other veneers at the same time to see what the quality, shipping damage, etc, is like. If it looks a good 'un, I'll circulate the details. While I'm waiting for the veneer, I'll order some more colour samples - you need quite a wide range because you can never be quite sure how the colour is going to be affected by each particular wood. In the meantime, this evening, I started to have a look at the neck. Yes - there's some damage to patch up on the top edge of the headstock but I've started to micro-mesh (GREAT stuff if you've never tried it) the headstock and the neck. Both are starting to come out smooth and satin. I don't think I'm fully through the added varnish yet on the neck but it is already starting to look good and feel SILKY smooth. It probably needs a lot more micro-meshing but I'll see if it's good enough to photograph in the light tomorrow The other thing I've started doing is crowning the frets. They're not too badly worn but I'm not going to take them down until the wear marks completely disappear - just enough to have a proper fret profile, enough so you can't feel the dips and the fretted notes are spot on. I'm travelling again next week but hopefully be able to make a decent amount of progress between now and then.

No problem

[quote name='CamdenRob' timestamp='1413355874' post='2577351'] That's a wonderfully suprious excuse for buying a new bass.... I love it. [/quote] Why do you think I have so many spare strap locks ;-)

What colour are they? Just thought, if they are chrome, I'm certain I have some you can have for nowt.

They are readily available. If all else fails, [url="http://www.thomann.de/gb/warwick_security_straplocks_bk.htm"]Thomann at less than £11.00 a pai[/url]r...free postage if you buy a new bass at the same time

[quote name='allighatt0r' timestamp='1413297584' post='2576834'] I know you're pulling my leg, there's no mug ring stains in the varnish! [/quote] We use a tablecloth, as you should when serving off a fine piece of furniture

[quote name='allighatt0r' timestamp='1413153638' post='2575402'] Although the figuring could look very cool, and you can call me vain if you like, but I won't feel comfortable playing AC/DC, Led Zep, Iron Maiden et al. on something that resembles a posh coffee table [/quote] With this one, me and the band do the gig, then pop it on the floor and serve supper off it

Hi, Chris! It's an exciting one. We're going for veneer on the front AND the back, stained green with a very dark green sides, back cutout and transition. Still a lot of decisions to be made - and I'm sure plenty of challenges along the way - but I have a good feeling how it's going to turn out Andy

Talking to Bryan, and both of us impressed with the photo you have posted, PaulS, I think we are going to head down the veneer route. There is such a lot of choice, I'm sure it will take the two of us a fair time to home in on the best option - it could be straight wood-wood, or something quite different. I've posted some tips and tricks to Bryan to help start the process but thought the subject might be of interest to some of you here. Here's an extract: [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]"The next factor is colour (determined by wood type): the darker colours will not stain well. but will darken and look fabulous with just a clear finish. The lighter ones will stain fine. If you still want to go for green, you need to be looking at one of the lighter ones (around the shade of the quilt maple or beech). North American Burl Walnut can get pretty dark and is best left unstained. Same with mahogany, paduak, etc.[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]The next choice is then the figuring - that is, figuring that is even to create just 'texture' or major figuring which becomes the defining feature.[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Some examples are below, from some of the veneers I have in my loft, but the principles are the same for the many varieties you sometimes see for sale:[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]This is called 'fiddleback' and I think I remember it is mahogany. With this you would just varnish/oil. It would darken to a rich brown with distinct but even figuring....[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]You could stain it, but it would be much much darker than the similar patterned but much lighter 'flamed maple' that you might see on, say a Gibson Les Paul[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]This one below is a darkish maple - this you could stain and it gives you texture rather than major figuring:[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]It's what I used on the turquoise 'competition' 6-string:[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]The one above, or something similar, would stain just fine.[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Then you head towards the highly figured. Again, maple can be figured and light in colour. Burl Maple would come out something like this (this is real wood but veneer would come out similar):[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Then you have the highly figured. For example, North American Burr Walnut starts like this:[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]...which, with clear varnish turns out like this:[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]...or this...[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]which turns out (colour-wise) something like this:[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][/font][/color] Hope that is of general interest. In the meantime, this simply make this project even more exciting Andy

[quote name='alittlebitrobot' timestamp='1413055316' post='2574606'] I can't believe you got that done so quick! It took me a couple of days with a heatgun to strip my '85 Spectrum GT. [/quote] Hi, alittlebitrobot They were light coatings as far as these things go - the second one and the original. Some of the ones in the past have taken me a week!!!!

Hi Howie You are right in that you never know what is under there but, as it is done as a mass production method rather than to specifically hide anything, it has every chance of being OK. The problem is more likely is the major shade differences of the body sections - particularly as the pieces are not symmetrical or the same widths Once I've got the stain, I can do a trial as it is, then if that is not great, take off the veneer and see what they looks like. If that still isn't great, I've already shown Bryan what I think would be a fabulous veneer. I always get excited with these projects, but I'm super-excited about this one. :-) Thanks for the link! Andy