Monckyman

Yep. Most active xovers can be used for a stereo 4 way (two tops,two subs) or mono three way (sub,mid,top) You sussed it right.

Seen Poor bloody monitor engineer.

I was going to post similar about Dave Lunt being a valve man only, but though I might be impugning his reputation. Another place you can try is JB at Noisebox P.A [b] [url="http://www.noiseboxsound.co.uk/"]http://www.noiseboxsound.co.uk/[/url][/b] They are city centre local and he`s a very good ex Amek fixer who repairs anything and everything electronic. MM

Gentlemen,women have been doing this for decades. They try in a store. Or look at a catalogue..(remember them?) They order 3 different sizes of the same item, they try all three in the comfort of their home,they then send back the two sizes they don`t want. I can`t see how buying musical equipment at a distance is any different, especially if we are protected in law. They buy shoes,we buy basses. fairynuff.

Just in case you`re interested, in a shameless promotional moment, I have a Furman stereo 4 way or mono 3 way single unit crossover with a few nice features, that `m selling. If you`re interested I could post a few pictures and details? Ad here.. [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/163650-furman-active-crossoverstereomono-fs/"]http://basschat.co.uk/topic/163650-furman-active-crossoverstereomono-fs/[/url]

Yep, agreed, but I`m very impatient! Seriously though, I knew I would have a fair bit to play with given the 10mm minimum height above the fingerboard and it helped keep the arc correct. Must get a decent needle file though, mine are crap

The crossover and 2 amps setup is def the best choice. You get to balance out the volume of each cab either on the xover outputs, or the amps themselves,making it much easier to get a more tonally balanced rig before EQing.

I just had to audition a few drummers, as I made it a condition for joining a new band who`s drummer is leaving. They gave me final choice as it`s so important for the bass and drums to click. I picked the one who made us all sound 20 years younger.

+1 to above. Looks like a bodged bridge job in the original pic. [url="http://www.qscaudio.com/pdfs/manuals/RMX_User_Manual.pdf"]http://www.qscaudio.com/pdfs/manuals/RMX_User_Manual.pdf[/url]

I stuck castors on my ampeg 410, and made a dolly up for smaller cabs. I`m in Manch and have some good quality castors donated by MB1 going spare that I`d be happy to help you fit. You`ll need the right bolts and T nuts,I have all the tools. Let me know if your interested and we can work out the details etc. Failing that, if you`re worried about de-coupling your cab, get a nice bit of 18mm ply cut to size at B&Q and we can stick the castors on that. Prob cost about £25 total. MM

Hi, yes,just done this. Wasn`t too fussed about mucking it up,as it`s not a great bridge and is missing a wing. At the very worst I was just going to get it to a luthier. I used a bit of wood about a centimetre thick to rest on the fingerboard and marked where that was on the bridge as in pic below. I marked the position of the string notches before I cut anything and followed the arc of the board round the bridge. I knew there would still be a reasonable action due to the centimetre of wood,and I reckoned I could lower the action further by filing out the string notches if needed. Once I was happy with the pencil line, I took my saw to it and cut just above the line. I then made partial notches for the strings where marked, before sanding the new cut smooth with paper. I then just used a cheap round file from ebay to deepen the string notches till they suited the strings. I also used the same file to take a bit off at the nut end. I have to say it was a great success for me, making an unpleasant and painful action into something I can actually play with some finesse and speed. Give it a go, it`s worth it for the experience. MM

Roland cube. Was a local one on here for a bargain price last week.

I`ve used it for controlling digital mixing desks, it`s great. Really precise.

Agreed with above, hard to tell if you are over hitting because you aren`t amplified. Hard to tell what the problem is till you use an amp, as that`s what it`s designed for. Could be actions a bit low, or the bridge needs adjusting, or you simply are hitting it too hard. I recommend a headphone practice amp, like a Pocket rocket,then you can amp up without disturbing anyone else and take it from there. MM

What`s the weight on these?