tauzero

Thin Lizzy - Dancing in the moonlight A bit left field - from Grease, both "Summer Nights" and "You're the one that I want". I'm not sure if the BC thought police will permit me to like them though.

I have only occasionally been sacked from bands for not being good enough. Mrs Zero insists I'm as good as Victor Wooten. Possibly I am, right up to the moment he starts playing. I think she's got Dunning-Kruger by proxy. I'm pretty competent as long as slap isn't required, or anything at full-on doom metal speed.

"Dark" to me implies sinister, but the only sinister basses I can think of are the Warwick Vampyre and the very short-lived Fender Sauron.

Going back to that original question - 400W with a sensitivity of 100dB@ 1 metre for 1W = c. 128.5dB for just the one cab for the full 400W, c. 125.5dB if the output is 200W with an 8 ohm load. So a single cab pushed to 400W would be as loud as an entire concert. I'm another one who gigs happily with a 1x12 (BB2 until a couple of years ago, then a GR Bass combo).

You'd have done it all if they hadn't red-flagged the race.

Grabbabird? That burst has turned out well. Nicely understated, hint of burst rather than full-on. Incidentally, to try and avoid losing pickup screws etc, I use old butter tubs or takeaway food containers to put everything small associated with a project into. Then I can lose the container and everything rather than just the odd screw.

My SRF705 has a barrel jack in like the one that @BassBunny has shown which could do with replacing, as has one of my Warwicks. They're a PITA but they're needed to go through a centimetre or two of wood. Regard it as a consumable item. If you can pull the socket out sufficiently to get to the terminals, you'll find it a whole lot easier than trying to solder inside the body - if not then consider extending the wires a little bit so you can.

What can possibly go wrong?

I shan't bother posting the links - With or Without You by U2, and (if you allow synth bass) Killer by Seal and Adamski.

After my initial post on the subject, it does occur to me that it's a little more useful than I originally thought - it does mean that if you want different settings for a particular effect, you don't have to choose between twiddling knobs on stage and finding a compromise setting. But it still doesn't look like much of a bargain to me.

There's another thread just started on the subject. It seems rather restricted to me, as it's a single effect selected from a list of 250 or so, rather than up to 9 effects as the HX Effects has for double the money.

Well, back you go on the ignore list, you ignorant stinky poo.

So I'm deaf and ignorant? Or is it that you are incapable of a definition so you're chucking out insults?

Assuming that you don't want to go the sensible route and chop the headstock off entirely, an angled cut perpendicular to the left edge of the headstock between A and D, and putting the D around the "r" of Harley would save stopping and redrilling, assuming that there's sufficient room on the rear of the headstock to accommodate the smaller tuners.

HX Edit and Line 6 Updater have been updated this month to v3.62 and v1.28 respectively - no 3.62 update for the HX units themselves though.

£250 for one selectable effect. £500 for 9 selectable effects on the HX Effects. Doesn't seem like much of a bargain.

You can go hybrid wired/wireless with wired headphones to a wireless IEM - for your purposes, the Lekato MS-1 would be fine, but it's a bit of expense that you don't really need as you're going to be tethered to something by the instrument lead unless you've gone wireless with that too.

Click on "Share" under the video, then click "Copy", then paste the link you've just copied straight into your post.

I've played in a few covers bands where I wouldn't listen to the music we played, and a ceilidh band playing playing traditional music. My preferred genres are prog and various of the subdivisions of rock.

It may be the way that you stand on the doorstep sharpening an axe that puts them off.

Just in case this is any help to anyone - the answer was to go into XR12 settings and into Audio/MIDI, and unset all three of the DIN MIDI switches.

If wireless would be useful, there's the Korg MicroKey Air 25 - it does both wired and wireless, keyboard feels OK.

Fretless (lined maple or unlined) is on the list of options, and there are some photos of a fretless in the gallery. Maple, ebony, rosewood, birdseye maple are the fretboard options. Singlecuts have never appealed to me - I've never liked the looks. This seems quite an ingenious approach but the aesthetics put me off.

Jeremy uses a 12-string bass so you'll find it difficult to get that sound. Type of string makes a considerable difference to sound. Flatwounds will have a bit less treble than roundwounds.