Grangur

Welcome to Basschat. This is a pretty active forum. So it doesn't matter where you post, it all gets read. Good luck with your bass. If you need more help do come back. See you around.

Why, @Marc Day do you have 2 threads to ask this question? As I've said in the other thread: Use a cocktail stick under the string at the line position, with your finger fretting the string behind the stick. You can use tape to hold the stick in place if you can't work out how you can get the string to hold the stick in place when you push it down.

Use your right hand to hold the stick in place and fret the string with your left. When you push the string down against the fingerboard, behind the stick the pressure will hold the stick in place. Let go of the stick with your right hand and pluck the string. If all this is still too complicated for you, use sellotape or Scotch tape or masking tape to hold the stick in place.

Use a cocktail stick under the string at the line position, with your finger fretting the string behind the stick.

Looks nice. It could be a type of rosewood. Its not walnut or wenge.

White spirit will do it without any damage.

You do appreciate, @moley6knipe, to be sure you don't have GAS, it's essential that you still peruse the Market threads, just to make sure you don't have even a little bit of GAS.

@FinnDave £7! Wow! The owner of the Vox wanted it back after a while as he wanted to sell it. He wanted £40 this then! I was earning £2.65 a week doing a paper round. £40 was an astronomical sum to me. I'm not 100% sure if I had 1 or 2 pups, but they were pretty useless.

Sorry, i have to confess to having not see the program either. I'm just being a cynic

In the 70s at about 16, I wanted to learn guitar. One day saw a Vox Clubman under my brother's bed. He'd borrowed it from a mate and done nothing with it. The body of the bass is ply. The neck was beech; as flat as a pancake and with no truss rod; made by the Ercol factory in Dartford. The "jack" socket was a co-axial socket. My first "amp" was a broken-down reel to reel tape recorder that I wired the bass into. It did nothing but make "fart" noises.

No, @leschirons, his loyalty is bought and paid for with about £10k per show. The production company wouldn't be excited about following him around the country on a wild goose chase for a price for "some old guitar". After all, it's not like it was played by Brian May. Plus its not even got 6 strings! Just look how often the bass player is on camera on music shows. Often they even show the lead guitar when the bass is playing a solo! Sorry, I'm very cynical about TV.

It's all about ratings. Beeb are the same as ITV making Kyle and these home make-over shows. It's got absolutely NOTHING to do with "helping" members of the public. It's all about doing a show that gets ratings and filling time between the ads and the News. Even Ebay is more likely to get a more true price for the bass, but it's not going to get the viewers excited, they'd rather see all the family "silver" go in a sale room with hands going up and hammers and such.

I recently made one as a thumb rest, from ebony, for another BCer. The obvious problem with a 1 screw mount tug bar is it can swivel. So it can't be very long because, as it gets longer, leverage increases. If you want it purely for show, there's no problem at all though.

Someone just mailed me asking about using coloured oil and if to use another oil afterwards to finish it. Here's my answer. To apply the oil, put some on a pad of cloth/kitchen towel and spread it over the surface and work it to the wood to make sure it gets into crevices in the grain. As you finish, wipe the oil off a bit, so it's not drowning in the stuff. Application of coloured oil is the same. The coloured oil will give you a finish that has the colour; which you can keep applying until you get the dept/intensity you're looking for. When this is done, you don't need to apply other oil. The coloured oil is enough. Leave the oil to dry and buff the surface up with a soft cloth. If you want a bit more of a sheen than the oil gives, use beeswax and buff it to a sheen with a soft cloth. Old t-shirts are good for this. Beeswax can come with a colour. I try to use a fairly neutral one. I'm using one from National Trust at the moment. I also have one on the go from Colron that's got a dark colour to it, but the dark does't seem to do a lot, but the wood I've used it on so far has been a dark grain laburnum. For a bass I'd use this one, getting the clear version. https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/liberon-beeswax-paste-with-pure-turpentine?gclid=CjwKCAjw8e7mBRBsEiwAPVxxiH91jYOcc9fLPfhsNk7sWTjY4SA8NkUeJPX9UPAaWAiI6WPsWxlYPhoCa0AQAvD_BwE Don't EVER, ever, ever, use any spray polish on ANYTHING ever. Spray like Mr Sheen or Pledge are "silicon polishes". The silicon stays damp and makes the surface sticky to attract dirt from fingers. It also makes the wood almost impossible to re-finish at any future date.

You might like this thread. It gives an interesting comparison. http://www.tdpri.com/threads/danish-oil-vs-tung-oil-finish-vs-tru-oil-a-neck-finish-report.281490/ I use Boiled Linseed oil. It's very similar to Danish oil. The difference is Linseed oil contains components that aid quicker drying. Danish oil contains varnish that will give more of a gloss.

@YouMa all oil of all types will darken the wood to some degree. Generally lacquer will make it less dark. When I was in the wood finishing business, the usual way to we checked what difference lacquer would make is to rub some saliva over the surface of the wood. This gives you the effect without actually doing it. For an oil that makes almost no difference; I once got a pathetically small bottle of genuine Fender Lemon Oil. This made very little difference to the look of the wood. It made it hard to see where i had applied it and where I hadn't. It was also stupidly expensive for the volume I got, but this might be the answer. I don't know how effective is is at protecting the wood against dirt from mucky fingers penetrating the wood. I didn't trust it and used boiled linseed oil instead, but I suspect it doesn't do a lot. You might like to give it a go. Another finish, probably better is wood wax. Osmo do a clear one. https://www.osmouk.com/sitechaptern.cfm?bookid=Products&chapter=82&page=373 @lou24d53, making wood darker can be done in a few ways. I don't really like wood stains and dyes. They are made in different ways. Stain is a liquid with coloured particles that sit on top of the wood. Dye soaks in to the wood grain. What I don't like in stain, is that when looking at the finished wood, the effect isn't very convincing to anyone who knows wood. When Warwick are colouring their basses they use a water based stain and then lacquer over the top. Another way to get a dark finish would be coloured oil, as @YouMa says. You can use the same link as above.

Hey @Ant1972, we have a thread here about BCers prepared to help folk get their basses set up; Now we know where you are, we can see there are 2 gents who're not far from you. I'm sure they would be happy to take a look at the bass when it arrives, if you wish. To make sure it's set up to play well. @obbm Obbm Farnham, Surrey @neilp Neilp - Crawley There will be other BCers about too. Good luck with the bass.

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Take some time out to read this thread too:

Affinity basses aren't as bad a you seem to think they are. There's nothing wrong with them. The pots and tuners could be better, but there's nothing really bad about them. I've had a couple and they were pretty solid. Yes, the customer service at Thomann is really good. If you do take to bass, the first one could well get sold on at some stage, so I'd buy a used bass. That way you can sell it on for the same money you bought it for. Even some used basses for about £100 will be good, very playable instruments; leaving you more £ to put towards an amp; an important part of the setup, for you to get a sound you like. Don't skimp on the amp. It may not seem as inspiring as the instrument, but it makes a big difference to the sound you'll get out.

I don't know if I'm talking about mid-scoop, but IME when you turn both volumes to full, the total output takes a dip in volume.

To know the size of the shaft, get a vernier . I hate Ama... but at less than £3 inc postage, you can't go wrong.

Yeah, Stub was taking the **** out of me saying "6/8" meaning 6 or 8. I almost posted to point that out, but thought, "nahh... he knows". Blue also knew what I meant. Enjoy the rest of your day, guys.

Yes, I've had the E saddle bottom out in backward movement, but never had a problem with not being able to shorten enough.