TRBboy

It's not a Yamaha, I built that bass from scratch last year, the shape is based on a Yamaha BBN5 though, good eyes! 😊

I know it's supposed to be a good pedal, and just sound 'great', but I think these sort of issues are always going to be a risk with a comp that has so few controls (dyna-comp style). You can't specifically adjust the attack threshold or actual compression level. Have you tried turning the sustain right down, and gradually increasing until you hit the problem point? Just wondering if it'll work if you can keep it under that point? Good luck anyway 😊

I used to use my zoom B3 for occasional effects, and separate pedals for drive/grit, distortion, compressor, tuner etc, but when I upgraded to the B2 Four earlier this year, I tried to pretty much do it all within that unit, because TBF it does have great drives and preamps. I've been struggling to get it exactly where I want it though, so I decided today to ditch my wah as I wasn't really using it, and bring the MXR Bass DI+ back on. HOLY FUDGE I never should have taken it off in the first place! It sounds so good for my needs, and seems to work incredibly with my Buddha Chakra compressor. Using the clean channel as a clean boost is an added bonus too. Very happy with my sound today, and it won't be leaving my board again!

Bit of an unusual weekend for us, had a charity fundraiser at Hereford rugby club last night, which was early evening (7-9), and then today a 3-4 slot at a family festival at Pearl Lake Holiday Park, Shobdon, Herefordshire. Both really enjoyable, and nice to not be home late at night! The best thing was that the kids got to come and see us for a change! 😊

I didn't even think to look at presets 🤦🤦🤦🤣 Will check it out, thanks!

Hey folks! I don't know if anyone here can help me? My band have just started doing Plug in Baby by Muse, and I'm trying to get an adequate effects patch built in my B2 Four. I've got pretty close, but just not quite there.... Any advice welcome! Not sure if any of you have experimented and successfully gotten near the thousands of pounds worth of effects that Chris uses 😅 So far I have an Octaver, Envelope, drive and fuzz, plus a noise gate at the end. Thanks!

Thanks Bill, I was eyeballing some stuff from Dunelm! 😅

Oh, and I concur; 8" cab build would be super cool! 😎 👌

Hey folks, still hoping I can get to this but will have to confirm 100% nearer the time. If I do, I will bring: •Frost Custom Basses PJ5 (my first build from scratch) •Sandberg California TT5 Passive •Possibly my customised Yamaha BBN5 •Markbass Stu Amp 1000w •GR Bass GR 410+ (1200w, 4 ohm) •A fairly unexciting pedal board 😅 May also bring my converted Trace 1x15" cab, if it's in a satisfactory state by then

Hey folks! My 1x15" cab which was formerly a Trace Elliot combo doesn't have any insulation in it, so I'm wondering if it would be a good idea to add some? Is there anything I need to be conscious of, and what would you recommend? Is any kind of wadding material okay? Thanks for your help. Oli

Okay, so the noise is back 😅😭 I'm convinced now that there must be some debris in the voice coil, so I'm currently trawlig YouTube videos to see how I go about removing the dust cap and cleaning it out. It's no use to me as it is, so I've nothing to lose. If I make a mess of it (likely), I'll order the LaVoce speaker recommended by Bill. 👍

Thanks for all the info guys, very helpful. Am I right in thinking the original Stingrays were wired parallel? I believe parallel is more 'open' sounding but lower output, and series is more ballsy with higher output? Is this correct? Been a long time since I played around with this switching 😅

Thanks Itu, I'm okay with the switching, I've done it before, and are there's not a huge difference. What value cap would you suggest? Edit: I have also considered doing a G&L L1000 style switch, with parallel/single/OMG 👌

Hey folks! 👋 😊 I'm currently plotting a project to build a 5 string P style bass, but with a single MM humbucker instead, positioned in between the traditional P and MM positions. Not sure yet whether I'm going to build from scratch again or buy a cheap bass to mod, to prove/disprove the concept. I'm looking to wire it passively, with just volume, tone, and a 3-way series/split/parallel switch. What I'm not sure about is what pot and cap values would be recommended? What say the BC collective? I'm leaning towards 500k vol, 250k tone, and a .047 cap. Thanks for your help! 😊👌

Just to close the loop here, I received the amp back on 25th July (a week after I kicked up a fuss with Markbass and they finally shipped the parts to Real Electronics), and it works great! Glad to have it back, it's a really great amp. 😊👌

Right, bit of an update! 🤞 I decided to dismantle and check everything thorough one last time this morning, before admitting defeat and buying a new speaker. Wiring, solder joints etc all good, checked all around the speaker again for any signs of splits, delamination where bonded, etc, and I can still find nothing wrong.... Now, some people had suggested rotating the speaker, so last time I had it out I turned it 45° to where I had it before. It made no difference, maybe even worse. When I reassembled everything today, I turned the speaker a further 45°, which although it's sideways to the floor, is back to the original orientation from when it was a combo .... And bugger me it sounds fine! Not a hint of distorting or weirdness! Whether it is due to orientation, or is just a complete fluke I don't know, but it's working for the time being.

So after my correspondence with Markbass last week they did finally ship the parts at the end of the week, Real Electronics received them Monday and got the repair done within 24hrs! Should be with me today hopefully 🤞

I've seen Sandbergs with white ones, but never cream.... May be worth asking them? If you know someone who's good at 3D printing they may be able to scan yours and print some cream ones?

You're quite right of course. If you read the thread further, I took measurements and we calculated it to be just under 60L, tuned to around 60hz 😊

I plugged the cab in again last night, and the noise was pretty bad, almost like I had a fuzz pedal on at a low level... The weird thing is, when I gently touch my finger on the edge of the cone, the noise goes away and it sounds great! Could it be micro tears in the cone or the suspension? I can't visibly see anything. Just wondering if there's any way way to test this? I'm convinced the speaker isn't shot, but there's something up with it.....

Sorry for the delayed response, thanks for this, it's really helpful!

Markbass have just sent a brief reply to my email, and it sounds like the hold up may well have been at their end. They say they have the parts ready to ship, and they'll be with the repairer within the next few days. 🤷

That's part of the reason the Stu Amp appealed to me (aside from 1000w), the tube and solid state signal paths with independent controls. It seems to work a lot better than the little mark tube I had. In fact it's probably the tubiest single tube preamp I've used, and it's easy to get just the right blend to your taste between the two levels. I've not tried the GR Amps, but they apparently are super transparent and sound great. Contrary to popular belief, the Markbass amps are some if the warmest sounding Class D amps out there. After many amps, I came back to Markbass because they just seem to work for me, I can always get a great sound out of them 🤷

I think it could well be the UK repairer, they were a bit slow with Comms and diagnosis initially, and said that they're really short staffed.... I do wonder now if they didn't get around to ordering the parts for weeks....

Get a GR Bass One 800 instead and don't look back! 🤣