dmccombe7

I'd never pay that for any band. Not even my fav bands. Not a Stones fan, never have been. Liked a few of their earlier songs but that's about it. I have a max limit maybe equivalent to $100 but it would need to be a good seat and a band i don't get a chance to see very often. Maybe Rush but few bands left i would pay that for. Genesis reforming i might or if Gilmour and Waters put a version of Floyd on tour i might but average i would reckon circa $50-$70 dollars for a decent band Better still go see a good tribute band or a good covers band. Dave

Tick in the box mentality. Also means that proper fans don't get a chance to see their fav bands. Dave

I'm of the opinion that i pay a lot of money for concert tickets and i want to watch the full show including any support act. Its disrespectful to sit and gab thru any band performance. Been to some local gigs where a crowd of women behind me sat and gossiped all night. They had obviously been drinking but you could hardly hear the band during their quiet songs. If i had been in authority at the venue i would have put them out. Few people did actually complain to staff who did nothing. Dave

Odd stage set up and picture isn't bright enough to understand what's going on. Looks like 2 Aguilar rigs with one each side of the drums. So what's happening and what kind of material is being played. Looks like a great setting i have to admit. Dave

I tried a Behringer amp head thru a Bugera 410 cab. Looked wuite like the Markbass cab ported at bottom. Amp had a nice clean sound. Not muddy and not too clinical either. All in all the Bugera cab sounded good and even coped with the octaver on the amp when i tried it. At the price they are not a bad amp and cab set up. Dave

No idea but drummer looks a wee tad stoned.

Band i was in last year a Blues / Funk based rock band the drummer used a digital metronome at rehearsals. Can't say i noticed it at gigs tho. In a 40 yr playing span that's the only one i've known. Dave

If i have no choice i'll use whatever is available and get the best sound i can. I might moan a little but no point making a big issue out of it. All else fails i'll DI to PA. Dave

That's neat and hidden behind the headstock looks far better than an add on at the top of the head stock. Dave

I took lessons for 12-18mths when i first started and altho i'm not a sight reader by any means i have found it useful when learning songs. I use it more as a tool for learning rather than a requirement and i've played most styles of music over the years. Yes i could get by without it but it helps me, makes life easier for me anyway. With regards hand technique i started off correctly but have taken shortcuts that i found made playing some songs easier for me. Yep i'm lazy. I now have regrets that i didn't take it further tho as i am now catching up with chord patterns altho that's mainly for my own personal satisfaction. Anything you can learn is another way to improve in my book. Dave

My rack tuner is not in line with my signal and taken from the amp tuner OUT. I do also use a TC Polytune sometimes in line but it has a true by-pass when off and also no effect on my sound. As long as a tuner is used it doesn't really matter what type in my opinion. Dave

Depends on the gig but i'm happy with just plug and play as long as i have my tuner (pedal or rack mounted). Normally like a touch of compressor but can do without if required. Dave

I checked the earth with my multimeter and it was perfect from bridge to jack socket. I even put tin foil under the scratchplate and attached to the metal control plate to reduce static noise when i rubbed my hand on the plastic plate. I added an additional earth under the bridge and soldered a larger earth on the back of the pots and altho it helped a little its always been like that. Its not horrendous buzz with nickel un-coated but with elixirs it seemed to be an odd thing going on there. I'm happy with the EXL170's rather than Elixirs which i only put on certain basses because they don't leave the house now. Dave

I usually keep the new box and date it with whatever bass i use them on. I usually wait until i notice the strings have reached a point that i can hear a significant loss of tone. Just seems to be around the 2month mark but that would be an average. My Precison deluxe has gone 3mths on same strings but i don't use it as often. Dave

Wow a set of strings every weekend gig / gigs. Mine last about 2 months before i start to notice a major deterioration and that's me playing weekly rehearsals or gigs and playing a minimum of 1-2 hrs a day at home. I'm not an energetic bassist and therefore don't hand sweat much. At the very least i would change at a month if i thought i needed that little bit of extra twang for a special gig or even an audition but typically 2mths for me. Dave

I took lessons when i started 40+ yrs ago and was told to use the 1234 finger technique. I always struggled at lower end of the fretboard and over the years i found i now use both techniques 124 at lower end of board ie 1-4th frets and as i move up the board from the 5th i use 1234 technique. I don't recall ever making a conscious decision to do that more it just seemed right and i also have varying thumb technique on back of the neck. Sometimes i will keep my thumb rooted on back of the neck and other times i've seen me wrap my thumb round the edge of the neck. I think it usually depends on style of music i'm playing. Rock or metal playing straight 8's on same note i sometimes wrap round edge of the neck.(my lazy technique ) If its something quite complicated or fast moving i tend to have my thumb anchored on the back of the neck. Over last few years i've tried to keep my wrist straight as much as possible on my fretting hand as i tended to have it quite angled at times causing some aches and pains. I tend to play fingerstyle using mainly 1st & 2nd fingers and occasionally adding my thumb, 3rd or 4th depending on what i'm doing. All in all i'd say do what's comfortable but try and keep to Good technique as much as possible if you can. Dave

Good point about the ball end being earthed so that now confuses me even more I think it might have been my Jazz bass i tried them on.

My Warwick Thumb and Overwater custom 6 fretless have Elixir strings on them but i find the tension is a little tight more so on the Warwick. I guess i could get used to that However i've also noticed that i pick up noise on some basses as if i have a dodgy earth system on the bass. I've put that down to the coating on them. If i put non coated on its perfect. If i touch the bridge the buzz stops. Don't quite understand why tho. Dave

Its just a bit o fun and hopefully people shouldn't take too seriously. Certainly if it was me thinking of buying a new bass i would be listening to many many reviews and VID clips before trying out for myself. Based on the above clip i wouldn't even look at the Stingray yet i know they sound great on other clips and live. Dave

Based on limited knowledge of settings and solely on what i'm hearing in the clip i thought the P bass sounded better. The T bird surprised me a fair bit. It maintained the same tone throughout and yet it worked on all styles played. Jazz sounded a bit thin to me. Not the sound i hear from mine. The Warwick also sounded a little weak. Again not what i hear from mine. Guessing all controls at mid point on Thumb. Rik sounded old school 70's in every style. Not what i was expecting at all. The Stingray bass had no guts to it and not what i recognise as a typical Stingray sound especially noticeable during the slap section. It should have won that section hands down. I have a Jazz (my goto bass), Precision (PJ), Thumb, Thunderbird and have owned a Ric. The only bass i haven't owned is the Stingray and that's not how they sounded when i played them. All that said i really enjoyed the clip tho. Quite a varied sound across the basses. Pity he didn't post the EQ settings on each bass. Dave

This was my first time using the 170's rather than 190's and fair pleased with them. Now that i know they are so good i'll look at the twin packs next time around. I'm using them on my Jazz bass. I can see them having more effect on my PJ bass. That's the other big difference i noted was that the D'addario's have a smoother feel and not as hard on my wee delicate finger tips There are just some things in life that just seem right for you when you come across them. Same with my Jazz. It always seems to be just about right for what i do. The EXL170's have that same effect in my opinion of course. Dave

Few months back i decided to move from D'addario EXL190 nickel strings to DR Sunbeams after reading many reviews and a lot of praise for them. They were ok but didn't seem to last any longer than the EXL190's and to me the tone was quite similar. Probably the most noticeable difference for me was the string tension was less. Cheapest i could get was £32 for the DR's so not cheap by anyone's standards. Thought i would go back to my D'addario's but having read a few reviews i thought i would try the EXL170's with 45, 65, 80, 100 gauge rather than the 40, 60, 80, 100 on the EXL190's. They gave a far more balanced tone across the strings and couldn't believe the difference. What i found with the 190's was the D & G string was quite twangy compared to the E & A whereas the 170's seemed to have an even spread as you moved across the strings from E to G. They don't have the twang of the 190's but i'm loving the more even tone. The EXL170's only cost £18 Not a big issue but thought i would mention it for those thinking about changing strings soon as i've nearly always used 40-100 gauge. Just goes to show you're never too old to learn or too old to change. Dave

Think i'll stick with Berkeley studios in Glasgow. All the gear is there apart from me and my bass. Costing us approx £120 / month. Was paying £80 / month for a studio space in Borders area but it was basically a builder that had a spare large office he didn't need and we could leave all our gear there. Included electricity and use at anytime. Think that was just a bit of luck to be honest. Friend of a friend kinda thing. Dave