Matt P

I've got spare skb rack nuts but no bolts/screws to go with them. Happy to drop them in the post if you want them. Matt Edit - the threads are 10-32 so not a standard metric thread.

i might have 4 spares from the rack i've just re-assembled, I will check this evening. (there are definitely spares but can't remember how many) Matt

are you looking for Acoustic-style Phosphor bronze strings? If so then i'd get in contact with Newtone for some custom ones, they're not as expensive as you would think and they will be able to make strings tailored for the scale and tension that you want. I've been using their acoustic strings for 15 years and they last really well and the tone is unparalleled. looking at the gauges of the D'addario ones (37,50,62,90) and putting that into the custom string configurator gives a price of 27.50 for phosphor bronze on hex core, it's a bit more (a few quid) for the platinum spec strings which have a smoother feel. they will take a couple of weeks to arrive but will be made to your spec. as the D'addario ones are over 40 a set this is a real bargain. I'm currently waiting for a huge order myself and have a 5 string stainless set being made for my Swift short scale 5. Newtone custom string configurator Matt

I skipped on the Fender cases and went straight to a Hiscox Liteflite, my '77 p-bass is a good fit and it offers the best protection (IMO) it's possible to add little padded cushions to tailor the fit but i've found that they are a pretty good fit as standard. I have Hiscox cases for almost every instrument I own (11 of them at last count) they're not cheap compared to some but i think cheaper than the fender branded ones (possibly not by much), and short of something custom or a flight case they offer the best protection. If you're prepared to search round for a used one then they can be had quite cheaply, i think the cheapest i've paid was 30 quid but 60 or 70 is more usual. Matt

i've just realised that since my last post in this thread I have bought and re-valved a Mk 1 Orange terror bass! I went with these NOS Philips valves from Langrex, Linky I went for the 12AT7 as they are lower gain (60 vs 100 for the 12AX7 I think) and the price with postage etc was very good compared to other places and the WA spec ones are supposedly military grade. the amp is now much more usable with a better range to the Gain control, it still gets really dirty when it's cranked but the gain control is far more progressive and usable. there is a great thread by @Happy Jackall about this which is where I got all my info about what spec valves to try. HERE Matt EDIT- just remembered that i also swapped out the screws that hold the top "cage" onto the amp, the original ones are pretty soft and easily damaged, i swapped them for some decent socket head (allen) screws, they're M3 thread, and i think 8mm long (I'm lucky that i work for an engineering company so things like this are easy to get, i think i scrounged these screws from the scrap metal bin after the last workshop clearout)

Is this for a dedicated rehearsal room that is permanently set up? If so then the solution that i used many years ago in that situation was floor wedge monitors (10" or 12"), they don't need to be super fancy ones just something from a reputable brand that is in good condition, I'm guessing it is just the vocals that are running through them so it shouldn't be difficult to get a decent sound. I'd guess that after selling the current speakers and buying some powered monitors (or passive and a power amp or 2) you will have some money left over for other kit. Matt EDIT - as many bands are swapping over to In-ear monitoring I'd expect the secondhand market to be fairly full of wedge monitors

It's mostly about upgrading whilst you're in there, the standard pots on many basses aren't that brilliant so swapping them out for good quality ones with decent reliability makes sense for the relatively small additional outlay, I've done this on many basses, not to improve the sound but so that i know that what's in there is good quality so can be relied upon. from experience of cheap enclosed barrel style jack sockets that would be the thing i changed out first (i've lost count of how many of these i have swapped out over the years) Matt

from the diagram it looks like the switch is part of a circuit board so bypassing might not be so easy, can you get photos of the actual part? it might be a case of simply bridging some connections on the board Matt

My starting point for any wiring task is always the Seymour Duncan website HERE, they have clear easy to follow diagrams for most arrangements. as you are rewiring and replacing one of the pots i would suggest replacing all of them with good quality ones (CTS would be my top pick, with Alpha second choice) while you're in there, I will often make most of the harness out of the bass and then make the last connections before fitting it back into the bass, i generally get a bit of thick card and mount the pots into that while i'm soldering everything together if the pickup wires are long enough you should be able to do all the work out of the bass except the output jack connections. another thing to check/replace is the output jack, that style are notorious for failing, fitting a switchcraft version should give you the longest life. Matt

you are correct, i'm not sure how i was confused there, i'm sure i have configured a custom set before and the cost was pretty much the same as a standard set. (within a couple of quid at least) they offer extra long as an option on the standard sets, might be worth asking what length that is? matt

Newtone would be my suggestion too, the platinum should fit the bill perfectly, the custom option works out as the same as the standard options in terms of cost. I'll be ordering a short scale 5 string stainless set this weekend. Matt

if you have a half decent printer it's not difficult to make the decals at home, the transfer paper is cheap enough on ebay, I've done a few and it's not too hard to get a good result, and speaking from experience it wouldn't be difficult to get a distressed/worn look either, i managed it without even trying (had to sand it back and start again as i wanted a pristine finish) the difficult part is getting the digital image in my experience. Matt

as far as i'm aware Seymour Duncan use the same colour coding for all their humbuckers so you should be fine to follow their wiring diagram and colours. Matt

probably worth googling the exact pickup to see what colour code they are using, i have vague memories of a chart somewhere that gave the different combinations from different pickup manufacturers, from memory they all have their own combinations and they can use the same few colours but each company had their version. what make is the pickup that you have? Matt

i use a stagebug passive and really like it (as have a number of sound techs that i've encountered), I also have one of the pro-di boxes which sounds identical to my ears, but i needed the smaller box of the stagebug to fit in my micro pedalboard. I'm on the loookout for another stagebug passive to add to my other pedalboard, the pro-di is in my emergency kit as a backup/spare the combination of great sound and tank-like construction just work for me, i'm expecting it to easily outlast me.

i'm a separate pedals guy but i've owned a few zoom multi fx in the past, i found i was only using maybe 3 or 4 patches and they were usually copies of each other with one extra effect turned on or off on each, so my current setup has only a handful of pedals with two that get used for certain songs and the other 3 as always-on pedals to get my tone, i've added an A/B box and my wireless receiver to the board and ended up with all i actually need on one easy to transport and setup unit. the last Zoom pedal i had was the MS-60B, it was a great pedal but i found that i went for a couple of months without actually using it so it got sold (it was part of my pedalboard and there is just a gap now) Matt

seymour duncan have excellent wiring diagrams, i'd look at the jazz with vol-blend-tone and probably the single humbucker volume, tone and split, you should be able to cobble together the arrangement from those. Link Matt

i've had a fair few cables from these guys on Ebay JuiceBitz they are nice quality and offer a decent range of length options and connection options. as a bonus all the ones i've bought have had velcro ties included as well. Matt

i think i'd go for a mustang 5 string, 30" scale, ebony board, blocks and binding, jazz pickups (60's wind) 18mm spacing and a super chunky neck, Nitro Daphne blue and matching headstock and Hipshot ultralite lollypop tuners and Hipshot bridge., as i don't have such a magic pass i'll have to build it myself (albeit as a 4 string) using a Harley benton neck and some Wilkinson pickups and hardware. the custom 5 string that andyjr1515 built me will have to do for my short scale 5 string duties. Matt

I need one of those as well, when they make another appearance can someone post it to this thread please? then we can all nip out and get one. Matt

I'm really liking the idea of being able to use the amp as a preamp for recording or Di into a desk, would it be possible to have 2 switches not a single 3 position one? for me it would limit the chances of accidently switching it to fully on without a cab connected. Matt

excellent news, looking forward to the prototype appearing. Matt

as this pre uses a single gang pot for the blend in theory it's possible to swap the 2 pots for one stacked pot, they might need to be on wires rather than soldered direct to the board but that's not difficult for a competent tech. Is there a value on the volume pot? the balance seems to be 50K. the link that @Passinwindgave above has a couple of options for stacked pots but only 2 that give a 50K option (50k/500k or 50k/50k, whether they have a centre detent on either pot is not stated. the other thing i would check is that the spacing on the other 2 pots (the tone controls) matches the control plate you are wanting to use, I'm not that clued up on Musicman but there might be spacing differences between the 3 and 4 hole plates. Matt

it might be that they've added the additional material at the heel (and i guess maybe at the headstock) in order to give a better thickness to hold the screws? 2mm might well be enough to give the required stiffness to the neck but it's thin compared to the pitch of the screws commonly used to hold on a neck. I'd guess that for the main section of the neck the carbon shell is much thinner (2mm seems about right) Matt

I had mine through Allianz, I never had to claim luckily but they were the first one I found that didn't mind that some of my basses didn't have serial numbers (custom builds) , they were always helpful on the phone and didn't put on the hard sell when I phoned to cancel the policy (everything is on the house insurance which is fine as I'm not gigging at the moment) when I get some gigs booked tean I'll go back to Allianz again.