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Matt P

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Everything posted by Matt P

  1. Did you try the standard hiscox bass case or the large version, I've been told that the large one will fit a Ric (but I've kot owned a Ric so have never tried it in person) Matt
  2. It's hiscox for me, I think I've got 10 at last count for basses and guitars, I've tried other brands but the protection never seems as good as the hiscox, I know you prefer rectangular cases but I've yet to find one that I trust as much as a hiscox. Matt
  3. I started out with an Ashdown 4x8 (neo swapped with Ashdown drivers) and it did have plenty of Punch and didn't seem to struggle with the low B on my old yamaha, I swapped to 1x12's for portability and extra oomph, bought a pair of the Gen 2 Barefaced Midgets, I get more oomph out of one of them than the 4x8 could offer, it just moves more air, and there's still plenty of punch. admittedly I'm comparing 2 quite different approaches to cab design though (the Ashdown was 20kg whilst the Midgets are 9kg each.) Matt
  4. i was in a very similar situation and bought a Zoom MS-60B, it works great as an occasional pedal, mine got moved on as i realised that I was barely using it and wanted the space for a dedicated chorus pedal as that was what I had it set to 99% of the time anyway. I think I sold mine for 55 quid a month or two back, for the money they're very good. Matt
  5. A mention of the acoustic cube! not much info though, and a mention of the power cube as well (a powered extension speaker) nice to see the t-bass as well. Matt
  6. @Mottlefeeder it sounds like you have it all under control! Looking forward to the finished amp. Matt
  7. on the upside that looks like a fairly beefy driver as it has a cast frame rather than stamped, and at least is a recognisable brand, i was once given a pair of 8" drivers that were "zebra" brand, i spent many fruitless hours trying to find some specs so i could decide what to use them for, in the end they got given away. Hopefully you can get the specs then one of the resident Basschat WinISD experts can help out with port sizes etc. Matt
  8. this was one of my thoughts, it's certainly strange as replacing the whole baffle on a cab isn't that common. Matt
  9. very interesting build, what kind of heat will the amp be putting out? have you got a plan to keep it from getting too toasty? Matt
  10. are there no markings on the driver at all, sometimes there are printed codes on the basket that can point to a certain manufacturer, sometimes the labels are small and in strange places. is there evidence inside that the baffle has been replaced? do the dimensions match up to the BLX410 cab? certainly some pictures and measurements should help to throw some light on what you actually have. matt
  11. thank you for these, finally confirms that the Trace head I acquired recently is a mkIV GP11 AH250 (unless the earlier ones looked identical?) I know it's not a bass amp but does anyone have a catalogue showing the acoustic cube? Matt
  12. very interesting, looking forward to seeing this develop, i do like the idea of using the string through idea to convert a 4 string bridge to a 8 string one, very ingenious! Matt
  13. were these designed for steel strings? they look more like the type that are usually used for the rubbery uke bass strings so i'm not surprised they are failing! maybe the bin is the best place for them! Matt
  14. how bad are the tuners really? might be worth offering them i the recycling sub-forum as someone might want them as spares or for an experimental project. Matt
  15. i've just had a good look at the Licenced Hipshot tuners on my Kala which are what i think your tuners are modelled after, i cant find any way that they come apart except for the method that @Andyjr1515 suggested, just make sure you keep track of any washers and put them back together in the right orientation. Matt
  16. it looks like the upper part of the tuner is fitted after the nut has been fitted, are there any grub screws on the upper part of the tuner? failing that i would probably try to pull or twist the top of the tuner off, it might be a 2 part design, they might unscrew if you turn them the opposite way to the string force. Matt
  17. i should show this thread to my wife, this makes my instrument purchasing look really tame! In some kind of chronological order i think 1- Aria IGB something or other (medium scale maybe) Blue PJ - traded a Yamaha dreadnaught for it with a friend that wasn't getting on with being a bassist, gave it away to a friend who then passed it on to a kid at church that wanted to learn bass 2- Yamaha RBX765a - red, bought for peanuts from a friend that was having a clear out, gave it to another friend that fancied trying 5 strings. 3 - Fender 1977 P-bass - modified with an added J-pup and all the finish stripped off, bought from a friend of a friend @dodge_bass it's very heavy and has very little frets left but just a glorious tone monster. 4- bitsa PJ i built as a backup bass, didn't get much use, traded it locally for a few pedals 5 - Bitsa j-bass as above but sold it to a friend for their kid to learn on 6- Letts 5 string singlecut - bought due to one of the special deals he did for basschat members. 7 - Warwick Rockbass corvette 5 string - bought cheap from the classifieds here as a project, someone had repainted it really badly so i stripped and oiled it, it looked great when finished but i just couldn't get on with the tight string spacing so sold it on facebook. 8 - Yamaha BEX4 - Bought form a basschatter, fitted some black tapewounds, loved the tone and the looks but just couldn't got on with the ergonomics - again sold locally. 9- Squier VM 77 p-bass - bought as a backup to the real 77, got hardly any use so sold it on 10 - Aria Cardinal CSB300 - bought it locally from a basschatter @benebass, it had been defretted at some point so I had new frets fitted, it's a YOB bass so will be staying, gets regular use. 11. Kala U-bass, - my first attempt to get a vaugely upright tone, gets regualr outings for acoustic gigs 12 - Stagg EUB - found it very cheap at a guitar shop in town, just couldn't resist. 13 - Aria IGB30 (i think) short scale single p-pup bass, fitted a bart pickup and some flats, gives a great p-bass sound and it fits in a guitar hard case so easy to transport. 14 - Squier VM P5, bought as a stage backup to the Letts, sold it locally as it wasn't getting much use and someone was particularly looking for one (also making space for No 15) 15 - still in discussion/design phase! there are a whole bunch of guitars as well but this is a bass forum! Matt EDIT - Squier Bronco Badzt Maru - bought from @mcnach in a coffee shop in Edinburgh, really enjoyed it but sold to another basschatter @NancyJohnson when they put up a wanted ad, one of the ones i wished i'd kept.
  18. I think I'm going to have to finally have a go at building my amp case this year, just need it to warm up a bit so my workshop is a bit more habitable. Matt
  19. In fact the Mesa ones are very close to what i would build, they don't seem to offer this anymore though, and i would make the front panel easily removable in case i swap to a different amp. I have done some calculations and the added weight wouldn't be too bad, i was going to cut out some of the ply inside to keep the weight down (or make it from a couple of layers of 6mm ply with the inner ones cut out to reduce weight.) Walkabout Head | MESA/Boogie® Matt
  20. yes, exactly like that! i have looked at those so many times but never had the money! what i do have is a pile of plywood offcuts and some random hardware from an amp that failed, so the only thing i would have to buy is the tolex. I think that Mesa Boogie offered a mini cab for one of their amps as well, but again well out of my price range. Matt
  21. I have considered this a few times, was thinking something akin to a mini marshall Plexi case with the amp along the bottom and an easily replaceable front panel, leaving the back open for ventilation. then if i change my amp in the future i can just make a new front panel to suit. my main thinking was to match my speaker cabs (Barefaced Midgets with vintage grilles) to give it a mini-rig vibe for looks mainly, and i would get a Roqsolid cover made to match the ones for the cabs. I haven't got round to this yet, maybe if i get access to a table saw i will get it made (my accuracy with a hand saw leaves something to be desired) My best friend has been hinting at a table saw purchase for a while. Matt
  22. do you have a multimeter? might be worth checking the cable and the operation of the footswitch just in case one of them is dud. If you can find someone with an original footswitch and a multimeter then you can compare the operation and that might help narrow down where the issue is. With a 2 button switch and a stereo/TRS cable usually one of the poles (sleeve) is the common and then pressing the switches connects the common to another pole of the cable, as there are 3 poles on the cable then the common could be any of them and the amp could be wired differently to make you buy the manufacturers footswitch (or modify a standard one to make it work) Matt
  23. I have to admit that I haven't had a chance to try this live yet, but I did use this board for a recording session where i was monitoring via headphones and it was totally silent, the engineer didn't mention any noise either. I might try and dig the board out later and see if I can hear anything. Matt
  24. I ran the first few incarnations of my board from a Harley benton power plant junior and a Palmer PWT05, they might be a bit too tall for your board but they both worked flawlessly and have 5 isolated outputs of 120mA each (which you can link for either double voltage or double current) i have just swapped to a Fame DC junior as i needed a bit more current for my wireless (Line6 g50) and it's a nice slim unit and was really quite cheap, very happy with it so far. Fame DC Junior | DV247 | en-GB For the people looking at the Boss WL wireless units, keep an eye on the power consumption whilst charging, 320mA if the website is to be believed (only 60mA in use though which is impressive) Matt
  25. @fleabagif the mosky had no effect at all then that would lead me to the conclusion that there is an issue somewhere else, either the wiring needs to be different in the switch or there is an issue in the amp itself. If it were mine i'd be getting my friendly amp tech to take a look. they should be able to modify the footswitch as well if required. Matt
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