Matt P

Martin at stoneham has been my go to amp tech for a while now, I have suggested a 100w bass head to him and he seemed to suggest that it would be possible, if it was narrow enough not to hang over the edges of my cabs I'd possibly be interested as well.

I have a near identical (but home-made) cable and 9v battereis in my gig case too, the Mooer Di is more of a back-up on my pedalboard as 99% of the time i'm running the link output into an amp and would use the Di on that if i was going to the PA (a very rare occurrence as we play pubs etc and our PA is vocal only) the Mooer Di has been used for recording though and did a great job. I actually have a couple of Passive Radial Di boxes (a stagebug and a Pro) that get more use but there wasn't quite room on my board for them so the Mooer is there instead, i've had the Mooer the longest and only bought the Radials in the last couple of years as they came up used at sensible prices Matt

I have this Mooer Di on my bass pedalboard, It is indeed a fine unit with a very usable sound, my only minor gripe is that it needs a 9v power supply as it can neither take a battery (understandable owing to it's size) nor run from Phantom power (as far as i can remember) Matt

Do you know what the item number was? I've had a search and couldn't see them (might have been looking in the wrong place or using the wrong search terms) Matt Edit, I think I might have found it, This one?

ohh, that's nice, which one is it? might have to add one to my next order.

Bought a Focusrite trakmaster from Pete, it was a perfect transaction in every respect. deal with confidence people Thanks Matt

i've just measured my gen2 Midgets and they are 48cm tall, i think the metricdimensions are correct and the imperial conversions are wrong. Matt

I have a pair of the 2nd gen midgets at home (some of the last before they were replaced by the 3rd gen, i can measure them up when i get home from work. Matt

According to this post over on talkbass there is a circuit board inside the FS4 that handles some of the switching logic, normally each footswitch needs 2 connections to activate the switch so the most that a 1/4" jack can handle is 2 footswitches (one common and 2 switched connections on a stereo plug) for 4 button footswitches it either needs a multi-pin connection or some kind of switching circuit in the pedal, Ashdown seem to have taken the latter approach, as the cable is only 2 pole. Unfortunately for your wallet the only option is to buy the Ashdown FS4. Matt

Just bought a mic preamp from Dave, it was carefully packaged and arrived quickly. thanks for the great deal, trade with confidence folks. Matt

I've searched for these before, i bought a rack case that someone had modded with a connector on the side and i wanted a cover to seal it back up. I used a plastic one though as i didn't need it to be structural. I'm also one of those obsessive techy people who can remember things like what this particular kind of connector cutout is called but couldn't tell you my home phone number without looking it up first. Matt

I'm assuming this is one of the standard ones with the d-sized rectangular casing? (like this ) If so then what you need is a d-sized blanking plate, THESE would do the trick (i just did a quick google i'm sure they could be found elsewhere) then just cut a suitable hole to fit a regular jack socket in the centre of it. Matt

i've looked at the guitar versions of these for a while, this bass one is very interesting, i'm thinking that it would be excellent through my Barefaced Midgets (both of them in order to get the full 50W) hmm off for some price investigations i think. Matt

I've always gone for the rough on the pedals, most of my pedals and boards have been bought secondhand so have had the velcro already attached and this is how all bar one or two have been done. i'm a big fan of the heavy duty velcro (the Velcro branded one) I bought my last lot at screwfix i think. Matt

my church bass setup is fairly simple, we've just swapped over to IEM's so i put together a mini board just for church use, Polytune mini - Spectra comp - Vong HPF - Mooer EQ7 - EHX Bass soul food - TC Corona mini - Radial stagebug DI. 9 times out of 10 i take a 5 string (mostly my short scale singlecut swift) but occasionally i'll take the 77 p-bass, the u-bass or if the songs suit i'll take the Stagg EUB. recently though i've been playing quite a bit of acoustic guitar (I started as a guitarist) so I take my McIlroy AS25 and run it into a T-rex soulmate. we've got pretty good PA guys and they're happy to set my channel flattish and let me dial in the tone using the EQ controls of the soulmate or the pedalboard. the mini pedalboard (a mooer m5 with some mods to allow me to fit everything in neatly)

i've had 2 basses built for me, they both have Hipshot Ultralites fitted (and Hipshot bridges as well) If i ever get the chance to have another bass built then it will have hipshots as well

these cables could be described as cheap, if you want some high end HiFi snake oil then try These Matt

the price is actually for a pair of 0.5m cables, they are intended for HiFi use as a connection between separates. I'm not trying to justify the cost (which i think is a joke) but it explains the images (2 x male to female leads) my hifi is mostly connected together with the same Klotz AC110 cable that i use for my bass, with REAN phono plugs. done that way so i can use sensible length cables to reduce the clutter behind the HiFi rack and because i bought a 100m drum of the cable. matt

they're really useful for measuring unknown strings as well (when trying to work out just which mystery strings are fitted to a new purchase!) (most of the digital ones can do imperial at the touch of a button) I bought my digital ones in Lidl or Aldi years ago, they're well worth it. i have a set of more expensive dial calipers as well that were a 21st present from my brother but they stay in the house and the digital ones live i the workshop. Matt

i've had a quick play with the refractory website and a rough model and the prices seem incredibly high (130 quid machining costs!) I'd look at @3below's option of finding a local modelling club and ask nicely there, one that specialises in larger scale modelling and live steam should be able to help, possibly for the cost of the materials and a few beers. you might also have some luck with tubing meant for model making, they are available in a range of diameters so putting a couple inside each other might get the desired result. Matt

the wrapped type bushings are quite thin so you would possibly need to use 2 sets inside each other (of the correct dimensions) to get a nice fit. I would be wary of the Oilite ones as they are imptregnated with oil which is designed to leech out over time to lubricate the surfaces, this might stain the wood around the tuner. have you got some way of taking accurate measurements of the bush you have (verniers or similar) it would take me only a couple of minutes to create the CAD model to get quotes (a drawing might be possible also) Matt

if you can get a model made then having the bushings custom made would be the cleanest option, If you get stuck with the model then i might be able to help (design engineer by trade) at work we have had some stuff made by these guys with good results, the prices have been reasonable as well https://fractory.com/ you just need a cad model to upload to get a quote. Matt

Done