obbm

I've gone back heavyish. A single cab that is the same height and depth, but slightly wider than the two 1x12s, but heavier and an amp head that weighs as much as my original 6U rack system. Overall the new set-up is physically only slightly bigger but the tone is huge.

I'm sure I said this a long time ago but bolt the old and the new guards together and using the old one as a template gently open up the hole in the new to match the old one.

File away, carefully.

No need to go down to 2-ohms if you get a secondary power amp. You can run one set of 4-ohm spekers from the Eden. Take a line out to the secondary power amp, and if it's a 2-channel device then you can run a set of 4-ohm speakers from each channel. 6 x 8-ohm cabs in total. Is that enough air movement?

[quote name='Bill Fitzmaurice' post='225034' date='Jun 23 2008, 02:09 PM']The technical acronym for this proceedure is RTFM. [/quote] Indeed it is but I was just being polite and diplomatic.

[quote name='phil_the_bassist' post='224864' date='Jun 23 2008, 11:33 AM']ok ok ok...even tho (several years ago) I did my physics A-level I still have a nightmare getting my head around this whole wattage/ohms thing! Broken down: Low ohms = more watts get through = louder. I get that bit, maybe not the why or how, but I get that it happens. Now, the big question...I've got a Hartke HA5500 (so that's max output 500w@4ohms but it's currently running 250w@8ohms) and I've got a VX215 cab thats rated upto 500w@4ohms. So, they're matched, it should all work OK but on the speaker outputs on my head it's saying '8ohms'. Does anyone know how I can get the full 500w@4ohms? Will I need to send it back to the factory, or is there a secret switch I need to flick? Any Ideas?[/quote] I strongly recommend that you read paragraph 2 on page 8 of the Hartke 5500 User Manual.

[quote name='karlbbb' post='223859' date='Jun 21 2008, 09:53 PM']Do they not make 12-ohm speakers? 12-ohm speakers, 3 in parallel = 4 ohms![/quote] Nope! 4, 8, 16 or 32 ohms. 3 x 16-ohms in parallel gives 5.3-ohms which is the impedance of the Eplifani UL310. Interestingly the SWR Goliath Senior 6 x 10 is also 5.3-ohms. As long as you have a powerful enough amp it makes f***-all difference having 5.3-ohms.

I had a similar problem with some pedals a few years ago. The problem is that some 9-volt power supplies have a well regulated output and some don't. Some pedals have on-board regulation and some don't. If you use a badly regulated psu with a badly regulated pedal you get hum. You don't say which Wall-wart you are using.

[quote name='ben_eat_pie' post='223270' date='Jun 20 2008, 09:45 PM']just wondering if anyone knows or can explain why there are no 3/10 cabs in producion (that i know of anyway), i'd like of with a horn...! might be something to do with wiring and impedance... i havn't a clue... that was a guess! ben[/quote] For starters I suggest that you explore the Epifani range. I think you might find a 310 there. In fact oldhorsemurphy has an Epi UL310 for sale on this very forum. Impedance is generally 5.3 ohms i.e. 3 16-ohm speakers in parallel, but you treat it as 4-ohms.

[quote name='Toasted' post='222694' date='Jun 20 2008, 09:52 AM']What position are you having the J put in, Dave? 60's or 70's [/quote] 60s. Don't forget I also have a DJ4.

[quote name='niceguyhomer' post='222693' date='Jun 20 2008, 09:49 AM']When will you have yours done Dave and who's doing the work? I can't wait to hear the outcome [/quote] The body was sent to the gallery on Monday. Ale reckoned about a week. When I get the body back I'll put it all back together. I have a spare Stack-knob set of pots so I might try those initially. Maybe a U-Retro later. Do you still get down this way on business? If so you are welcome to try it. Before you rush off and do it the same you have to consider that a Squier p-bass special would cost the same as the modifications, but it just wouldn't be the same and I just don't like the colour.

[quote name='niceguyhomer' post='222666' date='Jun 20 2008, 09:29 AM']Dave - if I go ahead with the mod, will I have to ditch the Fralin P pup fitted as standard and buy the set or can I just buy the J pup?[/quote] You can just buy the Jazz although I'd email Lindy first. Have a look [url="http://www.fralinpickups.com/bass.asp#jazz"]here[/url]. It's the "Split-Jazz Bass Replacement Style - wound as two coils under a stock cover for hum cancelling". I'm sure you could get one at a good price from the USA. i got my set from Angela's. Very good service.

With my crap hearing I also find a P a bit woolly which needs to be tightened a bit. For a short while I had a Fender Aerodyne and found the mix of P and J pick-ups very fleible and to my liking so I decided to go for it with the DD. We shall soon see if I've been wasting my money.

[quote name='niceguyhomer' post='222267' date='Jun 19 2008, 04:16 PM']The P pup is a Fralin and if I was going ahead, I'd probably go for a Fralin J. They actually make a PJ set so I'm assuming any issues re; humming / output would have been resolved. Making me think now that I should just sell / swap the bass. It'd probably be simpler [/quote] This is the description of the set I bought: [quote]Lindy Fralin Premium Precision/Jazz Bass Pickup Set! Includes set of vintage style Precision Bass 'split coil' pickups and a 'split coil' humbucking Jazz Bass bridge pickup, both brand new in the box! Lindy's 'split coil' design for the Jazz Bass bridge pickup involves two side by side RW/RP coils. You get all of the growl of a vintage Jazz Bass pickup without the noise! This design also overcomes the compatibility problems encountered when trying to mate other P-Bass sets with a Jazz Bass Bridge pickup. No matter how you combine the pickups with your volume controls the lowest possible noise floor is maintained with the highest possible output. If you're building or upgrading a P/J Bass, this is the best pickup set you can buy. Black fibreboard coil forms, alnico magnets, vintage style magnet wire, black plastic pickup covers. Good mounting hardware is included. Exact replacement for Fender and most other P/J Basses.[/quote] It'll be interesting to see if it lives up to the spec. I'm sure it will.

[quote name='bassicinstinct' post='221089' date='Jun 18 2008, 08:04 AM']Make an appointment with a decent Chiropractor [b]now[/b]. You'll be glad you did, believe me.[/quote] +1 I had a similar tingling fingers problem a couple of years ago. It turned out to be a lower back problem.

I've taken the plunge Al and sent the DD body off to have the routing done for a bridge jazz pick-up. Also having a side jack fitted and a battery box put in to give me maximum future flexibity.

[quote name='JJTee' post='219811' date='Jun 16 2008, 01:05 PM']Hi there, Anyone know where I can obtain a power cable to run from a Dunlop DC Brick to a Demeter Compulator, which I believe requires a positive tip jack. Cheers, Julian[/quote] How many do you need?

[quote name='tauzero' post='219552' date='Jun 15 2008, 11:34 PM']I think that suggestion of a Y-adaptor like [url="http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?ModuleNo=1272&doy=15m6"]this[/url] would work well with a little headphone amp, either homebrew (which would cost around a tenner for something simple) or something like [url="http://www.djmmusic.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=DE15"]this.[/url] Or perhaps the Dean Bass-in-a-box for £25.[/quote] I agree. The problem is that most of these devices are designed to just have an instrument plugged into them. If you try and Tee them off the cable from the bass to the amp you effect the quality of the signal. I know, I've tried it. It starts to knock the HF off and that is unacceptable. I found an Australian made DI box that had an instrument loop-through, transformer balanced DI out and a very high impedance FET buffered output. Now that is interesting but unfortunately not available here.

[quote name='bass_ferret' post='219442' date='Jun 15 2008, 08:55 PM']Bill may be assuming that you are using a crossover for these cabs but I suspect you are intending to put the full signal through both. As has been said many times putting the same signal through different cabs can produce unpredictable results and is likely to sound bad which ever way you stack them.[/quote] Then how come the workhorse rig for years was a Trace 4x10 on top of a Trace 1x15 both fed with the same signal from Trace Amp? In answer to the original question try it and see if it works for you.

[quote name='bass_ferret' post='218738' date='Jun 14 2008, 10:32 AM']I can only do 6/7 September.[/quote] It seems we are destined never to meet. I can only do August 30/31st.

[quote name='tauzero' post='218281' date='Jun 13 2008, 01:24 PM']Who'd have thought that Marshall would copy Ashdown? And that they'd copy the facet of the Superfly that gets slagged off the most... [/quote] I think its the other way round. That being the case how come no-one spotted the drawback in the 80s when the 3540 was introduced.

Nick, why not go and put that question on the Ernie Ball Forum. There are a lot of US players who swear by flats on Stingrays. If you want to borrow a set of TIs to try .....