Mr. Foxen

I'd guess this is a publicity excercise as much as anything.

A day in my Dad's workshop and I have a straightish bridge (shame about the woodwork it goes on being curved), and a brass pickup surround and truss cover. Not sure which I'll be keeping on it. Pics to come.

Get the individual bridge piece ones. I got some cheap ones on ebay, they are fine, although I drilled them for through-stringing.

Get a socket so you can cap change easily, and have it poking out the former tone knob hole. Could also put a high value resistor before the cap, equivalent to the pot resistance, that would do the same as on 10.

[quote name='StevieD_FenderP2009' post='991745' date='Oct 17 2010, 10:44 PM'][url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Ibanez-Bass-1974-Vintage-/180575663977?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item2a0b25f769"]Ibanez Rickenfaker - Quite nice[/url] dunno if this has been posted already[/quote] Tino posts here.

A cap will act like a fully rolled off tone control, although that would be dependent on the cap value. Probably best losing some treble elsewhere in the chain, like rolling off the tweeter some.

Ask the guy who added it what he used, it would probably be simulating something if it was digital.

[quote name='TheGreek' post='991671' date='Oct 17 2010, 09:38 PM']Thanks for this..somebody had said about boiling strings but I was a bit sceptical.. The (brass/bronze?) strings on my acoustic are filthy and cos I only use it occassionally I was reluctant to buy another set - now I won't have to! (assuming it works on brass/bronze). Anybody?[/quote] Works fine, they might not come up shiny, but the gunk will come out so the sound will recover.

The OC3 eats batteries, think it is common to digital pedals. Best with a power supply, not come across other problems. I'd guess the switching jack is failing, also seen on other boss pedals, its a funny jack that won't replace easily, probably have to hardwire it to on and use a power supply.

[quote name='skankdelvar' post='988752' date='Oct 15 2010, 02:12 AM']Terry Gibbler - Slough - Wears a ski mask all night, even during interval.[/quote]

I've always thought the average guy in the pub will notice is a pretty crap standard to work to.

[quote name='mildmanofrock' post='988480' date='Oct 14 2010, 09:52 PM']Thanks for the QSC recommendations. Excuse my ignorance, but what does this mean?[/quote] It is the way the amplifier works internally. Class A/B means the transistors are set up in a push/pull manner, picture a sine wave graph, each set only works for one half of the wave above or below the center line. Class D is a bit fiddlier and switches back and forth at a very high frequency kind of like the line was pixellated into steps, but you aren't close enough to notice. Dunno about class H, but I think the Crate power Block uses it and every thinks it is class D due to being small.

[quote name='Delberthot' post='988652' date='Oct 14 2010, 11:55 PM']I was amazed at the sound I got from a Hartke LH500 and a Peavey 4x10" at a rehearsal last week. So much so that it was the impetus that lead to me doing a trade with my 2x15" for 2 Ashdown Mag 410Ts Such a punchy sound - plus its technically an 8x10" so doesn't get much more rock than that. plus its big and manly [/quote] Not sure of this logic. The Peavey 4x10 is a pretty different prospect to the Ashdown ones.

Stevie's left hand is pretty tough to emulate.

The Tecamp 6x12 was great and I miss it. For a brief period I was rocking a 10x12 rig.

The common Peavey 4x10s go really low, the 15s don't seem to, and can't handle as much power. Pretty bad mix. Edit: The 2x15 is the one to go for if you have a valve head.

Look out for one of the fretless Westone Thunders, they come up and don't get bid so high due to the specialist nature.

You've put forward and then tried to argue in favour an incorrect point. It is important to demonstrate it is incorrect, otherwise the point will be read an accepted by people less willing to put some thought into it. Which is how you get the whole 15s sound woolier than 10s thing etc. If something is wrong, I'm going to point out that it is wrong, every time. Using organic solvents to remove organic matter from strings is an entirely valid method to render them bright again, it has significant advantages over boiling by avoiding introducing water and head to strings. If you want to bin dirty things and buy new ones rather than cleaning them, its your money, but in a thread discussing cleaning methods, probably best keeping it to yourself.

[quote name='geoffbyrne' post='987169' date='Oct 13 2010, 05:24 PM']Surely the only thing that matters here is the phase/polarity of the speaker wiring? Use the old 9V battery trick & ferkle the wiring so they are all going in & out at the same time & phase. G.[/quote] 9v battery trick won't work into the amp, they don't pass DC unless they are breaking. The issue is the amp can reverse the phase of the signal, so if some amps do, and some don't, it will put them out of phase with each other.

[url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=105405&st=0&p=977745&#entry977745"]See this thread[/url]

[quote name='farmer61' post='984293' date='Oct 11 2010, 12:09 PM']What's a shim??[/quote] 6-7th fret is pretty much the middle of the neck affected by the truss rod, might just be a back bow and sorted by a truss rod tweak. A shim is a thin piece of material but between two pieces as a spacer.

Massive valve bass amp. Also, some more massive valve bass amps. Doom