Mr. Foxen

I'd guess it is a sealed cab, which makes the speaker requirement kind of specific. When you know it is definitely sealed or not, post it up and someone will figure best speakers to go in it. What head are you pairing it with? Actually have a bit of jealous going on. Impedance is easy enough to figure by measuring the resistance, best way to go because it might tell you if there is speaker trouble before you upset your amp. And if you don't like it, I want it, it will look horribly clashing under my green Matamp.

The pickup that comes in them is pretty hot and good sounding, might not be that much of an upgrade, so hang on to it. Or I'll give you a tenner for the old one.

[quote name='XPAULUSX' post='1008247' date='Nov 1 2010, 10:08 AM']Crude but effective style? why is that? i cant even find a picture of one![/quote] Crude but effective as in it is a big heavy wooden box with speakers in it, and it will be loud, rather than some intricately designed piece of flat response speaker theorist pleasing lightweight technology.

I reckon so, crude but effective sryle, if you can shift it. Old Orange stuff is worth a premium, I'd use it just for the horrible clash with my green Matamp.

Peavey. 8.5C come up for about £100 and are beefy. But there are loads of others. Open them up, hoover out the fluff and you are good to go.

Realised this is actually really good, rather than just weird and wrong.

[url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/OLD-VINTAGE-RELIC-SG-STYLE-ELECTRIC-BASS-GUITAR-/110605747537?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item19c09dc551"]£79 BIN SG bass.[/url] tempted to buy to flip.

[url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BOSS-LS-2-LINE-SELECTOR-/230545043201?pt=UK_Guitar_Accessories&hash=item35ad8e2f01"]Right here.[/url] Not of super interest, but a great pedal that is super handy, benefits me if it comes up on BC later on when I want one.

The fan on my Matamp Quasar sucked in my hair last practice. These look a little more appealing.

A sec of feeler guages should cover the same ground, but not look as snazzy.

[quote name='gary mac' post='1006377' date='Oct 30 2010, 03:45 PM']I may still end up just trying to make it look like a 50's model that hasn't been played much![/quote] Good excuse to play it much.

I hear overheating issues with them, so running 8ohm cabs would be kinder on the amp, and the volume difference won't be very significant.

Cover yourself in engineers blue and play your bass some, that way you'll know where you rub against it and thus where to wear, as it were. Engineers blue may not be the best method, but I think you get the general idea. The best worn basses are worn where the owner has played them, if you can see a rubbed bit that isn't covered by their arm, you know they are faking.

It is guitar scale.

Was just given this as payment for restoring a guitar (musicians eh, cuh). I guess its one of those jobs from Woolies back in the day before Squiers, but I'd kind of like some proper info: My monitor is dying so I dunno if these pics are any good. The scavenge part if I'm after a tuning peg or two for the missing ones, although there is plenty else wrong with it (defretted for one).

Bah, this is seriously holding up my amp fixing because Umph isn't about for me to pick his brains.

[quote name='Phil-osopher10' post='995996' date='Oct 21 2010, 02:35 PM']Do I need to understand how sound waves work? What impact does the cab/bracing have on the sound/tone of the of the build? What about Air flow? Or is it a matter of chucking 6 bits of wood together and cutting a few holes?[/quote] There is pretty deep science at the fine end of this. But the main stuff is learn use WinISD pro to sort the bottom end tone (and this includes air flow, it can tell you how big ports you need and how fast the air in them is going), and stiffness and non-resonance is the aim of bracing. Plus there is lining and stuffing tat break up air resonances and destructive reflections. But yeah, chucking together 6 bits of wood and some holes can work pretty fine, the cab industry worked fine on that until the 70s or so.

[quote name='Lozz196' post='1005011' date='Oct 29 2010, 12:12 PM']I`ve found, to my cost, that upgrading/swapping can sometimes not produce the required results.[/quote] Second hand replacement bits and keeping the old one ensures you won't lose much but time.

[quote name='tom skool' post='1004874' date='Oct 29 2010, 10:34 AM']Anyone tried any other oils? how about danish oil? it has shellac in it but might colour the wood to much maybe. I only ask coz i can get that at a local diy store[/quote] Danish oil is a bit unspecific, as there is no set formulation. Some won't have shellac, I know Rustins (my favoured) has tung oil, but it is coloured, it will give a honey shade to maple. See [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=101055&st=0"]my refinish thread[/url] to see the colour change from bare but old maple to Rustins Danish oiled. If you fret in such a way you rub against the board loads (shallow frets, lots of bends/rock style vibrato) it probably won't be very durable.

[quote name='Soloshchenko' post='1004858' date='Oct 29 2010, 10:14 AM']I'm heading that way but could do to see an example where someone has done so as I'm a bit worried about colouring differences which are noticable.[/quote] Not sure as it's not my area, but I think some classic basses have a different finish on the headstock face to the rest, so they end up coloured differently anyway. You won't be able to avoid a colour difference at some point, the only thing you can mess with is timing, as it will change as it ages.

I'd leave the whole face, it's the only way of doing it without it being obvious that you've sanded round it.

[quote name='Wilco' post='1003118' date='Oct 27 2010, 10:37 PM']I've reduced the hiss by turning down the gain on the active Maverick basses, but it's still very noticeable even with the passive Fender plugged in.[/quote] If turning down the bass reduces the hiss, then some of the hiss is coming from the bass. Does your cab have a tweeter?

[url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Tokai-Rockinbetter-Bass-guitar-/300486576094?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item45f66547de"]"Tokai Rockinbetter.[/url] At least sounds sort of unsure about the Tokai link.

Sound absorbing is all about converting the air movement energy into other energy, usually via friction producing heat, so the bamboo fiber absorbing sound is because the fibers are free to rub together. Doesn't apply when they are glued. Bear in mind weight and durability issues aren't there for monitors, because you aren't expecting to be moving them much. I'm pretty sure it will be equivalent to very high quality ply in most ways, as with most things, the existence of cheap poor quality ply drags down it's reputation overall. Really, to achieve stiffness, you can do it with cunning construction, tensioning and bracing, have a look at aircraft woodwork to see how to achieve maximum stiffness for minimum weight.