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lozbass

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Everything posted by lozbass

  1. The Danelectro is now SOLD - thanks to all for the PMs and kind comments More surplus (but sad to see this go - I love these - a proper '70s pop-star's bass) This is from a '90s re-issue series (not the current crop) and is around 10-12 years old I think. It's in very good condition with no dents, dings or deep scratches. It has a few superficial marks but nothing through the paint (indeed, the marks hardly count as scratches - just 'rubs' really). The bass has been well looked after and is nicely set-up with ultra-light strings (I use a selection from the D'Addario baritone set but tune the bass as normal - E-G). The tone is pretty much characteristic for a Danelectro - you either like it or you don't (it's fairly deep with fairly twangy top end). Playability is excellent - really low action and string tension: super fast, easy and fun to use. The bass is also ridiculously light - around 4lbs I think. Hardware isn't the highest quality but it's all stock. Collection in central Manchester is great or I can ship for around £10 to the UK. I don't have a case but will pack well (indeed, I might be able to find a very old and basic bag for shipping - this will be placed inside a cardboard carton). Please get in touch with any questions.
  2. Hi all, I'm moving my TE GP12 SMX amp head - I bought this here on BC last year for £280 (so the current asking price is firm - indeed, it's a bit of a bargain). The amp is in exemplary condition - the previous owner advertised it as such and I wasn't disappointed when it arrived. I think the head is around 16 or 17 years old and is British built. It's in the TE amp sleeve (green rat fur in excellent shape) with a heavy duty, sprung. TE branded flight case handle. The only sign of age on the unit is a little tarnishing on the fan grille at the back (this is extremely minor!) Tone is pure and classic Trace - the amp is super-powerful and loud. I'd hang on to it but I simply have far too much gear and need to rationalise. Price is £245 to include post (to UK) and packing. Alternatively, the amp can be collected in central Manchester (£230 cash on collection).
  3. [quote name='lojo' post='930227' date='Aug 19 2010, 07:59 PM']What's the story with that pic, its amazing, i'm almost lusting after an object and getting worried about it![/quote] I think this bass is/was for sale at Rumbleseat Music in the US - around $4250 IIRC. It's a used Masterbuilt with a few little marks. Just gorgeous.
  4. Some beautiful playing in the sample - wow! What a stunning tone. I've been torturing myself over this bass for ages but just can't justify it. Now if I could play like Bassmate, then maybe...
  5. Great basses - does this still have it's original pickguard (and circuit)?
  6. [quote name='ElCapitan' post='927285' date='Aug 17 2010, 10:25 AM']In 30 years I've never had a problem with a stock fender bridge. Am I doing something wrong?[/quote] Hahaha - to be honest, me neither
  7. [quote name='stingrayPete1977' post='926693' date='Aug 16 2010, 05:33 PM']Its just bits of wood whoever makes it[/quote] Hmmm...not all bits of wood are born equal, neither are they put together the same way. I agree entirely that bridge design, construction and materials can have an impact on sustain (Alembics provide and excellent case in point) and I think that Jimmy Coppolo did quite a lot of work on his bent tin bridge. Whether it's high mass or not, I'm not sure - I'm told that his aim is to build Fender-type instruments that conform fairly closely to original build philosophy and techniques. If you're up in Manchester, you're more than welcome to try mine - I don't think you'll find a problem with sustain at all (maybe this would be 'improved' with the addition of a BA - and indeed, some early ACs were supplied with BAs - but there may be disbenefits of various forms).
  8. [quote name='CHRISDABASS' post='925561' date='Aug 15 2010, 01:35 PM']Ive been chatting with Roger Sadowsky about the matching headstock thing as i'll need a Decal for Dave to use, Roger is more than happy for me to go ahead and has even offered me the choice of decal colour, black, silver or gold.......think im gonna go for silver[/quote] I'm really looking forward to seeing this - please keep us updated!
  9. Rogue's tend to have better balance than some of the smaller bodied Alembics - the extended top horn can be of benefit here. The smaller bodied basses do not balance well in my opinion (though I find that a very short, wide neoprene strap helps) - the standard body shape for the MK model is not small at all - indeed, the MK is generally a big bass. I too have found that most Alembics are relatively weighty. Anything with cocobolo facings is going to be pretty heavy - Alembic use a lot of cocobolo - and the brass hardware and electronics package isn't light. Add to this the fact that some Alembics have four 9v cells just to power the LEDs and you can see that weight management isn't always a major issue at Alembic. That said, selection of lighter facings can have a big impact and some models are chambered: I have a SC deluxe in Buckeye Burl and it's very manageable (about 8.5lbs). On the issue of tone...well it's all so subjective. For me the characteristic and core tone of a higher-end alembic is something like the bottom-end of a high-quality grand piano: depth, purity and complexity with massive sustain. Alembics can certainly sound 'hi-fi' but tend to sound different (to my ears) to other typical hifi basses such as Foderas, Seis etc. If you prefer 'Bbmmmmm' to 'Ddoiing', then an Alembic may not be for you - though it is possible to make an Alembic sound reasonably close to other hifi instruments. If you like a clanging, ringing rock tone, then an Alembic can do that too. What I think an Alembic may struggle with is emulation of something like an EB-O or EB-3 - Alembics do tend to sound very clear. I also find that Alembics tend to have a big and complex though not 'phat' tone (i.e., phat along the lines of something like a Warwick). Getting used to the filter system on an Alembic really isn't that difficult - some are more complex than others but the variety of tones is astonishing and investing some time in experimentation is worthwhile. I hope this help the OP - just some thoughts on the basis of my own experience.
  10. [quote name='stingrayPete1977' post='911189' date='Jul 31 2010, 01:08 PM']why does the Alleva still have the bean can bent up and chromed on it?[/quote] This is getting a bit OT but I think that the AC LGs come with the bent tin bridge (whatever the designation - classic, classic supreme etc.) - as far as I know, a Hipshot can be fitted but most players prefer the bent tin version. There's an extraordinarily detailed discussion of AC bridges (and bridge development) over on Talkbass. I have to say that neither myself or the other players that have tried my AC LGs have found any problem with sustain. To be honest, ACs appear to be rather well-built instruments with considerable attention to detail - poor sustain hasn't be reported as a problem as far as I know
  11. I had a Masterbuilt NOS '64 (fretless) and can claim with confidence that it was a sublime instrument (I'm not sure how much the quality might differ from a CS). It had a couple of finish/specification problems but no big deal
  12. You know when you think 'I shouldn't have opened this thread'...?
  13. [quote name='skej21' post='924393' date='Aug 13 2010, 09:12 PM']BEAUTIFUL! *Droooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooool*[/quote] Every time I see that photograph I go all wibbly inside - one of my favourite basses ever! Chris, thanks for the comment on the Alleva - I really should try to get some better images (especially of the heastock) Also, on the nitro, I love it (it's a nitro finish on the AC) but it's generally much softer than poly. Depending on perspective this is a good or bad thing. I think it ages beautifully but some don't. Sonic blue has a tendency to take on a greenish hue as the clearcoat matures. I also find that nitro on the neck is a bit 'sticky' (just needs a quick wipe in between tracks when playing live - not a big deal at all and some players don't bother)
  14. lozbass

    gone

    Always loved these - my first 'expensive' bass - unique, aggressive rock tone (I modded mine and it lost all of it's original sound!) A good price...really tempted!
  15. I'd do it - for me, Sonic Blue is the coolest colour! An opportunity to shamelessly offer an example (not the greatest image I'm afraid)
  16. Always liked this (a lot). Not a clue who the bass player is but there's some lovely playing on a lot of CC material - not always flash or clever, but tasteful, sympathetic and effective (these latter characteristics always highly preferable in my opinion)
  17. If I had £80k, I'd just get a high-end Alembic and have done with it - a Signature or Series can cover a lot of different bases and has it's own unique tone too. Of course, not everybody is a fan. If that's the case for you, and given what you have now, I'd go for the Jazz first. My first choice wouldn't be a Fender, and I'd be tempted to go for something second hand and boutique. There are some fantastic Jazz clones out there - most can do a great classic J tone but offer much more in terms of versatility and playability (that isn't to say that there aren't some great Fender Js out there too). For me to advise financial prudence would be sheer hypocrisy.
  18. Another great deal with Chris - great communications and super rapid action on Chris' part - combo was with me in 24 hours! Recommended without reservation. Cheers, Lozbass
  19. [quote name='molan' post='919126' date='Aug 8 2010, 10:31 PM']Also - what do all the controls do - I get a bit lost on Alembics, lol[/quote] From Davehouck on the Alembic Club site: "Signature controls are volume, balance, neck pickup filter, neck Q switch, bridge pickup filter, and bridge Q switch. Basically, the filter control is a low pass filter; as you roll it back it lowers the point at which it passes low frequency signals and blocks high frequency signals. To quote Mica, "the range is from 350Hz-6KHz. Wherever you set the filter, only frequencies below that cutoff point are passed." The Q switch works in concert with the filter and provides an 8db boost at the cut off frequency you've set with the filter. When the switch is off you get a flat response up to the filter setting. Again to quote Mica, "the Q affects mainly the attack portion of the note"." The bass in the ad also has a switch for the LEDs. The set-up is actually very easy and intuitive - the range of tones is extraordinary (lots of variations on the bottom end of a very high-quality grand piano...and more sustain!)
  20. [quote name='AndyTravis' post='919114' date='Aug 8 2010, 10:17 PM']You looking for a 3rd Alembic, Loz?[/quote] Haha, would love to but economic conditions and all that!
  21. [quote name='casapete' post='918645' date='Aug 8 2010, 11:46 AM']I'll have 'em! PM me your details mate Cheers, Pete.[/quote] PMd - cheers
  22. Beautiful - if anybody hasn't tried one of these, do yourself a favour - Chris Celinder really is one of the world's very best builders: absolutely stratospheric quality and playability
  23. Thanks for the clarification - the crack doesn't look like a big deal. Gorgeous bass - the action can usually go down to the floor on Alembics - maybe the tech was suggesting a slight stone to clean up after any settling
  24. Wow! Have you had the crack checked for stability? It looks minor but I'm pretty sure any prospective buyer would want to know. I bet this sounds a bit lush! Good luck - beautiful bass!
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