jezzaboy Posted September 2, 2009 Share Posted September 2, 2009 Youve made a really good job of the paintwork and all for £20! I can see the sandpaper heading for my old squire bodied P bass as I`ve got one too many sunburst finished basses. Your cat looks as if it`s got "mind control eyes" in that photo. Jez Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xilddx Posted September 2, 2009 Author Share Posted September 2, 2009 [quote name='jezzaboy' post='588032' date='Sep 2 2009, 09:48 PM']Youve made a really good job of the paintwork and all for £20! I can see the sandpaper heading for my old squire bodied P bass as I`ve got one too many sunburst finished basses. Your cat looks as if it`s got "mind control eyes" in that photo. Jez[/quote] Thank you Jezza, appreciated:) Three cans of paint and some wet and dry! Of course I spent 114 Euro on the hardware but I think I've sold the chrome hardware to make that up a bit. Ahh, LouLou's lightsabre eyes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xilddx Posted September 2, 2009 Author Share Posted September 2, 2009 Something else I meant to say was to massively big up Warwick. The new bridge I ordered arrived set up for intonation. I installed it, strung it up and it was perfectly intonated! Now that's attention to detail! That's one of the reasons I dig Warwick so much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happy Jack Posted September 3, 2009 Share Posted September 3, 2009 I didn't even know you could do that. I thought intonation varied from instrument to instrument? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xilddx Posted September 3, 2009 Author Share Posted September 3, 2009 It may be out a few cents but as it's fretless it's harder to tell. It's near as dammit. That's Warwick QC for you, their instruments are assembled and set up beautifully at the factory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toasted Posted September 3, 2009 Share Posted September 3, 2009 Great job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xilddx Posted September 3, 2009 Author Share Posted September 3, 2009 [quote name='Toasted' post='588390' date='Sep 3 2009, 10:50 AM']Great job.[/quote] Thanks T Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gust0o Posted September 3, 2009 Share Posted September 3, 2009 Sil, did you use a clear lacquer at all? Or is it simply paint then polish? I'm very curious, being mid-process in restoring an item. Some people appear to not use clear lacquer, whilst I was moments away from ordering a load. Would be interested to hear how it worked without. Looks very good from the shots! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvin Posted September 3, 2009 Share Posted September 3, 2009 [quote name='silddx' post='587974' date='Sep 2 2009, 09:08 PM']My old friends [/quote] That's really nice. Really go for the grain coming through. Must admit in its original state it did look a bit orange, although that may have just been the photo. It looks great know, you should be proud of your work there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xilddx Posted September 3, 2009 Author Share Posted September 3, 2009 [quote name='Gust0o' post='588417' date='Sep 3 2009, 11:15 AM']Sil, did you use a clear lacquer at all? Or is it simply paint then polish? I'm very curious, being mid-process in restoring an item. Some people appear to not use clear lacquer, whilst I was moments away from ordering a load. Would be interested to hear how it worked without. Looks very good from the shots![/quote] Hello mate, and thanks. I gave it about eight coats of clear acrylic aerosol before wet sanding it with 600, then 1000 grade W&D. It's sounds a lot but it's not and it's really easy to sand through to the colour, even the wood! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xilddx Posted September 3, 2009 Author Share Posted September 3, 2009 [quote name='RichB' post='588430' date='Sep 3 2009, 11:26 AM']That's really nice. Really go for the grain coming through. Must admit in its original state it did look a bit orange, although that may have just been the photo. It looks great know, you should be proud of your work there.[/quote] Cheers Rich, that honey violin stain really is that orange! Horrible! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gust0o Posted September 3, 2009 Share Posted September 3, 2009 Thanks for the swift response. I'm after a seriously glossy look with this one, so I suspect I'll be putting a significant amount of coats on, so it's good to get your take. Out7hined has been very helpful also, passing some advice on after his stunning Encore Coaster. I'm impressed that all of this has been done with paint from a hardware store. I might have to go and investigate further. I had been looking at some of the items from Manchester Guitar Tech, but was considering something a little more... different! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xilddx Posted September 3, 2009 Author Share Posted September 3, 2009 [quote name='Gust0o' post='588444' date='Sep 3 2009, 11:32 AM']Thanks for the swift response. I'm after a seriously glossy look with this one, so I suspect I'll be putting a significant amount of coats on, so it's good to get your take. Out7hined has been very helpful also, passing some advice on after his stunning Encore Coaster. I'm impressed that all of this has been done with paint from a hardware store. I might have to go and investigate further. I had been looking at some of the items from Manchester Guitar Tech, but was considering something a little more... different![/quote] If you want seriously high polish, you'll probably need to wet sand from 800 progressing down to 2000 grade W&D. Then use T-Cut or some sort of polishing compound. I used Rustins, on a damp ball of soft cloth. I really haven't done a perfect job by any means, but I reckon I could have done with more time and patience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gust0o Posted September 3, 2009 Share Posted September 3, 2009 One final question for me - did you spray the neck, or just the body? I think I'm pretty comfortable with the body, but the neck seems problematic in parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xilddx Posted September 3, 2009 Author Share Posted September 3, 2009 [quote name='Gust0o' post='588580' date='Sep 3 2009, 01:19 PM']One final question for me - did you spray the neck, or just the body? I think I'm pretty comfortable with the body, but the neck seems problematic in parts.[/quote] It's a bolt on neck so I didn't spray that, I have no problem with seeing wood on necks, just bodies Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xilddx Posted September 3, 2009 Author Share Posted September 3, 2009 [quote name='Gust0o' post='588580' date='Sep 3 2009, 01:19 PM']One final question for me - did you spray the neck, or just the body? I think I'm pretty comfortable with the body, but the neck seems problematic in parts.[/quote] Go to the reranch website, the're's loads of great advice and tip and tricks on there. [url="http://www.reranch.com/"]http://www.reranch.com/[/url] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big_Stu Posted October 6, 2010 Share Posted October 6, 2010 This thread came up in a Google search, which I did cos I've no answers to my query in the Repairs & Tech section here. Won an ex-Andy Scott of The Sweet Washburn electro-acoustic guitar over the w/e. He also signed a dedication to me on it, which I kinda want to keep but play it too. I was told today by a woman at Plasti-Kote that their acrylic spray isn't compatible with a Polyurethane varnish on the guitar; but from the sound of this thread it is? Any thoughts before I possibly knacker this guitar??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigAlonBass Posted October 6, 2010 Share Posted October 6, 2010 [quote name='Big_Stu' post='980030' date='Oct 6 2010, 11:08 PM']This thread came up in a Google search, which I did cos I've no answers to my query in the Repairs & Tech section here. Won an ex-Andy Scott of The Sweet Washburn electro-acoustic guitar over the w/e. He also signed a dedication to me on it, which I kinda want to keep but play it too. I was told today by a woman at Plasti-Kote that their acrylic spray isn't compatible with a Polyurethane varnish on the guitar; but from the sound of this thread it is? Any thoughts before I possibly knacker this guitar???[/quote] Yes-I'd be wary of using Plastikote after my experience last week! I'd stripped my old Squier Jazz to the bare wood, then built up coats of Plastikote paint to make it a lovely, glossy white finish. I was so pleased with the result, that I decided to use Plastikote clear lacquer to protect and enhance it. After one light coat of the lacquer, every single square millimetre of the white paint crazed, bubbled and lifted! I spent the better part of a day stripping off the gooey, glue-like goop that was left behind, and ended up going to my local Car Discount store for some rattlecans. No more problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LukeFRC Posted October 6, 2010 Share Posted October 6, 2010 I've not even read the thread but be very carefull (ie don't use Plasti-Kote on anything unless you know how its going to work. The solvents in it melt plastics, this is a good thing if you want it to stick to something, bad if you want to do something to a guitar. Graphiti paint is half the price and safer to use on surfaces in my experience, you may have to ask round to find out where to get it as it will prob be a behind the counter thing.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LukeFRC Posted October 6, 2010 Share Posted October 6, 2010 [quote name='BigAlonBass' post='980046' date='Oct 6 2010, 11:27 PM']Yes-I'd be wary of using Plastikote after my experience last week! I'd stripped my old Squier Jazz to the bare wood, then built up coats of Plastikote paint to make it a lovely, glossy white finish. I was so pleased with the result, that I decided to use Plastikote clear lacquer to protect and enhance it. After one light coat of the lacquer, every single square millimetre of the white paint crazed, bubbled and lifted! I spent the better part of a day stripping off the gooey, glue-like goop that was left behind, and ended up going to my local Car Discount store for some rattlecans. No more problems.[/quote] yeah, it melts stuff beneath it, the OP got away with it by putting it directly on the wood. honestly track down graphiti paint, a fraction of the cost of car paint bigger range of colours... and its the same stuff! I kinda would like to try nitro finishing something... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xilddx Posted October 6, 2010 Author Share Posted October 6, 2010 I'm doing my latest bass in Tonetech Luthier Supplies pre-cat nitro and it's more pleasurable to use. Touch dries within 15 minutes and I can wet sand it after 24 hours. Talk to them, they are very helpful. I guess I may have been lucky with the Plasti-Kote, but the bass finish is still ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LukeFRC Posted October 6, 2010 Share Posted October 6, 2010 it will be now, it's protected with the clear coat. I think if you had had any of the old finish left it would have lifted, you did a good job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xilddx Posted October 7, 2010 Author Share Posted October 7, 2010 (edited) [quote name='BigAlonBass' post='980046' date='Oct 6 2010, 11:27 PM']Yes-I'd be wary of using Plastikote after my experience last week! I'd stripped my old Squier Jazz to the bare wood, then built up [b]coats of Plastikote paint to make it a lovely, glossy white finish. [/b]I was so pleased with the result, that [b]I decided to use Plastikote clear lacquer to protect and enhance it. After one light coat of the lacquer, every single square millimetre of the white paint crazed, bubbled and lifted! [/b]I spent the better part of a day stripping off the gooey, glue-like goop that was left behind, and ended up going to my local Car Discount store for some rattlecans. No more problems.[/quote] I just read this more carefully. I had exactly the same thing happen and I believe it has something to do with putting on the clear coat too soon. Not sure why it happens because they are both acrylic. I just let it dry and wet sanded it flat, seems to be ok. I won't be using it again though. The Tonetech Luthier Supplies precat nitro is amazing and very easy to use. It's possible to get a mirror shine on it too. Edited October 7, 2010 by silddx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big_Stu Posted October 7, 2010 Share Posted October 7, 2010 Damn, didn't want this to be so complicated. Thanks for all the replies guys. Washburn have said that the finish is Polyurethane, cos of it's "custom silver pearl colour for export only". There's a Ploykote can of Polyurethane varnish that B&Q do that I found. I kinda hoped that the two would be happy together. The bugger is that there's no "inconspicuous area" to test it on. Only other experience I have was destroying the nitro finish on my Gibson bass once by using the wrong kind of spot cover. It looked like a broken car window in seconds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloodaxe Posted October 7, 2010 Share Posted October 7, 2010 [quote name='BigAlonBass' post='980046' date='Oct 6 2010, 11:27 PM']Yes-I'd be wary of using Plastikote after my experience last week! I'd stripped my old Squier Jazz to the bare wood, then built up coats of Plastikote paint to make it a lovely, glossy white finish. I was so pleased with the result, that I decided to use Plastikote clear lacquer to protect and enhance it. After one light coat of the lacquer, every single square millimetre of the white paint crazed, bubbled and lifted! I spent the better part of a day stripping off the gooey, glue-like goop that was left behind, and ended up going to my local Car Discount store for some rattlecans. No more problems.[/quote] [quote name='silddx' post='980239' date='Oct 7 2010, 09:37 AM']I just read this more carefully. I had exactly the same thing happen and I believe it has something to do with putting on the clear coat too soon. Not sure why it happens because they are both acrylic. I just let it dry and wet sanded it flat, seems to be ok. I won't be using it again though.[/quote] I found this tucked away on the Plasti-Kote website: [quote]Recoat [b]within 4 or after 36 hours[/b] otherwise paint may wrinkle. Touch dry in 30-50 minutes, thoroughly dry in 2-3 hours.[/quote] This suggests that there's some kind of chemical curing that kicks in after 4 hours. Hammerite & Smoothrite have a similar caveat & can become self-stripping if you don't adhere to the instructions. I've had other issues with Plasti-Kote that mean I won't use it ever again. Pete. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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