Question: Filling pocket screw holes on maple neck

[Grooverjr]

This is really a noob woodworking question. 

I got a MIM Fender maple neck that I want to put on a standard P body. Neck fits the pocket very nicely but when I went to screw it in I realised the screw holes on the neck had no bite on two of the holes. I'm using standard screws from Allparts and they are perfect for the body. It seems the neck has either previously been used with bigger screws or has just been badly treated when adjusting the truss rod (it's a heel adjuster). What would be the best thing to fill the holes and get them gripping the screws? As it's a heel adjust I will need to be able to unscrew and re screw a few times to get the right setup, barring incredible first time luck! 

Thanks.

[PaulThePlug]

If the holes align, but are just too big...

Maybe use neck inserts and bolts, rather than plugging and re-drilling 

[Grooverjr]

17 minutes ago, PaulThePlug said:

If the holes align, but are just too big...

Maybe use neck inserts and bolts, rather than plugging and re-drilling 

Yes they align. Wasn't aware of neck inserts. Is it just a case of making holes big enough for the inserts then bolting on? That would certainly be easier.... Thanks a lot

[PaulThePlug]

Quite a few YouTube vids, some might have used em on here and can give some pointers

 

This sort of thing.

https://www.blackdogmusic.co.uk/product/guitar-neck-inserts-bushes-and-screws/

[JJMotown]

Screws come in different widths, you may have slimmer ones, check dimensions and get next size up or some slightly wider.

[BlueMoon]

5 hours ago, Grooverjr said:

Is it just a case of making holes big enough for the inserts then bolting on?

Just make sure the inserts are plumb in the neck, not at an angle. With careful drilling (best is a drill press) for the inserts it is not that difficult to do. The added advantage is that you can remove the neck for truss rod adjustments etc as many times as you want with no movement due to wear in the neck holes. It’s a good upgrade.

[Grooverjr]

I think the inserts are the way to go as it will also avoid future problems. Thanks!

[NancyJohnson]

On 04/08/2025 at 12:05, Grooverjr said:

This is really a noob woodworking question. 

I got a MIM Fender maple neck that I want to put on a standard P body. Neck fits the pocket very nicely but when I went to screw it in I realised the screw holes on the neck had no bite on two of the holes. I'm using standard screws from Allparts and they are perfect for the body. It seems the neck has either previously been used with bigger screws or has just been badly treated when adjusting the truss rod (it's a heel adjuster). What would be the best thing to fill the holes and get them gripping the screws? As it's a heel adjust I will need to be able to unscrew and re screw a few times to get the right setup, barring incredible first time luck! 

Thanks.

 

Personally, I'd re-drill the holes and plug them with glue/dowels, level these (sharp chisel to rough, then sandpaper), and then redrill new holes. 

[Joe Nation]

15 hours ago, NancyJohnson said:

re-drill the holes and plug them with glue/dowels

 

Trouble with doing that is you're putting the screws into end-grain. This is fine for tuners, pickguards etc, but neck screws are under a lot of load and ain't worth risking IMHO (especially on a heel adjuster). If you can find cross-grain dowel or use a plug cutter it can work fine though.

 

Personally I'd go for inserts and bolts - use a drill press or a guide block to ensure the holes are square (perpendicular to the surface, obviously they need to be circles).

[NancyJohnson]

4 hours ago, Joe Nation said:

 

Trouble with doing that is you're putting the screws into end-grain. This is fine for tuners, pickguards etc, but neck screws are under a lot of load and ain't worth risking IMHO (especially on a heel adjuster). If you can find cross-grain dowel or use a plug cutter it can work fine though.

 

Personally I'd go for inserts and bolts - use a drill press or a guide block to ensure the holes are square (perpendicular to the surface, obviously they need to be circles).

 

I'm sorry, but your not drilling into end-grain argument is nonsense.  

 

A dowel is going to be made from hardwood like beech, oak or maple and from a strength perspective is likely stronger than the wood you're going to be glueing it in to. It's not going to crack or split if you drill out the proper sized hole for the screw you're installing.

[Si600]

1 hour ago, NancyJohnson said:

 

I'm sorry, but your not drilling into end-grain argument is nonsense.  

 

A dowel is going to be made from hardwood like beech, oak or maple and from a strength perspective is likely stronger than the wood you're going to be glueing it in to. It's not going to crack or split if you drill out the proper sized hole for the screw you're installing.

Not only that, but it's constrained by the hole it's in, even if the plug does split it has no room to expand so the screw will still be held in.  With a pilot hole to remove the material that's in the way of the screw you'll be fine drilling and plugging.