Rosie C Posted 17 hours ago Posted 17 hours ago On 18/12/2025 at 10:40, nekomatic said: Can’t remember exactly but I’m pretty sure I just squeezed mine flat between a couple of pieces of wood and a couple of clamps. I was thinking along those lines, specifically, sandwich it between two pieces of 18mm ply, then drive my van onto it Quote
tauzero Posted 16 hours ago Posted 16 hours ago Do you have to remove the rim from the grill first? It's going to somewhat constrain the flattening if you don't, isn't it? Quote
rwillett Posted 7 hours ago Posted 7 hours ago 9 hours ago, Phil Starr said: Not very helpfully it took around 15mins, so I'm not sure what is going wrong. I've bashed a lot of metal in the past when I welded my own car bodywork amnd I've dressed a lot of lead when working on the roof so I'm probably fairly efficient. You kind of settle into a nice steady rhythm keeping the work moving. I'm trying hard to picture what you might be doing. I look not for the high spots but the bits where the metal is most bent. Are you perhaps going for the middle. The bent bit is around the cicumference around 2-3cm in from the edge (roughly, I dont have it in front of me). Knock these flat and the centre will start to lay flat. Push the middle down without taking out the edges will just mean it springs back. That's exactly what I am doing. I'm working 2-3cm from outside edge, carefully going round, trying to keep the rubber mallet full face onto the metal. Every so often, I turn the grille over so it's being bashed from both sides. I've done over an hour on it and it is slightly better, but if I look at it edge on, I can see where the bends were put in 2-3cm from the edge, its not as bad as it started with. I'm bashing against softwood and I wonder if that's the problem. I'm going to try and find something different to hit against, possible a paving slab or something, cover the slab with material. I can't use plywood and drive the car over it, as I've cut it up for speakers Rob Quote
Phil Starr Posted 5 hours ago Author Posted 5 hours ago (edited) 1 hour ago, rwillett said: That's exactly what I am doing. I'm working 2-3cm from outside edge, carefully going round, trying to keep the rubber mallet full face onto the metal. Every so often, I turn the grille over so it's being bashed from both sides. I've done over an hour on it and it is slightly better, but if I look at it edge on, I can see where the bends were put in 2-3cm from the edge, its not as bad as it started with. I'm bashing against softwood and I wonder if that's the problem. I'm going to try and find something different to hit against, possible a paving slab or something, cover the slab with material. I can't use plywood and drive the car over it, as I've cut it up for speakers Rob You cut up the car! 🤣 Try using a bit of timber or hard plastic to concentrate the forces. You can then concentrate on the actually bent bits. Edited 5 hours ago by Phil Starr Quote
rwillett Posted 5 hours ago Posted 5 hours ago I found a broken paving slab in the back garden and used that. Lo and behold, 15 mins later, it looks a lot better. Lesson here is don't use a softwood base (cut bad puns) to hammer against. Masked the area off and cut it with a Dremel and new cutting discs and the cutting is almost done. I forgot to take into account the rubber edges which hide the raw metal so it's possibly one row of holes too large in each direction. The blue tape is just to hold things together as the rubber edge really wants to curl off I'm still thinking about how to fix it to the speaker cab OR to the red corner pieces. Magnets might be the answer here. I have a lot of the strong ones and a simple addition to the red corner pieces might work well. A little bit of velcro through a few holes would allow it to be pulled off easily. With a black baffle board, it might look quite good for me. Rob 6 Quote
basstone Posted 2 hours ago Posted 2 hours ago 3 hours ago, rwillett said: I found a broken paving slab in the back garden and used that. Lo and behold, 15 mins later, it looks a lot better. Lesson here is don't use a softwood base (cut bad puns) to hammer against. Masked the area off and cut it with a Dremel and new cutting discs and the cutting is almost done. I forgot to take into account the rubber edges which hide the raw metal so it's possibly one row of holes too large in each direction. The blue tape is just to hold things together as the rubber edge really wants to curl off I'm still thinking about how to fix it to the speaker cab OR to the red corner pieces. Magnets might be the answer here. I have a lot of the strong ones and a simple addition to the red corner pieces might work well. A little bit of velcro through a few holes would allow it to be pulled off easily. With a black baffle board, it might look quite good for me. Rob That grille is looking good. One option would be a recessed batten around the whole front of the baffle then screw the grille to that. Also a strip of thin self adhesive foam strip between the grille and the batten helps dampen any tendency to vibrate Quote
rwillett Posted 1 hour ago Posted 1 hour ago I'm probably going to try to put a small 3d printed block under each corner with quite a strong magnet hidden away. Thats the lime green bit below. The magnet is 0.5mm under the surface of the plastic and so can't be seen. It will have a plug in the back of it and it *may* have some self adhesive foam under that to avoid rattling, I didn't think of the foam so thanks for that. I will also add some foam on the top of the mount between the plastic block and the grille as you suggested. Good ideas those. The block will be welded to the corner piece (thats the purple bit). Its welded, not glued as the "glue" melts the plastic together and forms a stronger bond than the plastic itself. Might be superglue, might be Floplast. if this doesn;t work, then the recesses battern is plan B Thanks Rob Quote
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