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Pain in the custom neck


fleabag

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Before @Andyjr1515 has a chance to slither out of his rocking chair spilling Werthers Originals all over his lino and start this thread, i thought  i'd jump the gun a smidge and save the ol' fella some time.  He can even guzzle his  Ovaltine in peace.

 

The doddery woodcrafter extraordinaire is going to build me a custom neck. Starting with some type of Maple , a Richlite diamond fingerboard, Ebony headstock plate,  22 EVO gold frets, 34" scale , zero fret, Tusq nut, etc.

 

The  wizard will be along shortly.  No offence Andrew. :)     We're pretty much a similar age, and i already drink Ovaltine

 

Watch this space at your peril.

Edited by fleabag
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No swifts, because i'm having the same Andy  ( AJR ) decal for the headstock that Andy arranged for me when he built my single cut Nemesis

 

The logo/decal is looking a bit tatty now, as i'm not exactly  pristine with my basses. It will look even more at home on a  black headstock

 

And yes, it will be just as awesome.  Andy is not spraying the neck, so the logo wont appear on the neck in this thread

 

 

1130047310_ajrlolgo.jpg.a861d0452343a2c8b741da8eb1bb4de5.jpg

 

 

Edited by fleabag
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OK - 20 minutes before the next nap.

 

So...yes.  Maple neck with a Richlite fretboard.  First time I've used this material so should be (is already) interesting.

 

The project started with a bag of bits from @fleabag, including the Richlite blank, truss rod, nut blank and a set of EVO gold frets.

 

First job, after clarifying the spec (which we repeat a few times a day on account of my age - "Have you switched the kettle off? Have you switched the kettle off??  I SAID HAVE YOU SWITCHED THE KETTLE OFF!!!???" - was to be radiusing the board to the requested 20" (I checked a few times).

 

And here was the first challenge.  I use an industrial-quality double-sided tape when I'm routing to hold the blank to the jig.  This stuff would hold insulation tiles onto the Space Shuttle very happily...but not Richlite...

 

I then tried the old trick of two sides of masking tape held with CA glue...nah!

 

In the end - I had to SCREW it to the jig!  Hmmm...this is going to be fun ;)

 

yiyJOPGl.jpg 

 

I use the excellent G&W jig. 

J9C4Hsrl.jpg

 

 

The Richlite routed, well...just like ebony.  10 minutes or so of final sanding with a radius block to remove the router lines.  It sands like, well...just like ebony :

7r65o5Fl.jpg

 

And it was done.  And it looks, well...just like ebony.  Except, of course, you can no longer get jet-black ebony due to sustainability measures :

VV5NSpCl.jpg

 

Next job, still ongoing, was cutting the fret slots.  But I see it's already Horlicks time.  :)

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Andyjr1515
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It's not like teflon, but feels like smooth ebony, so it has a texture as such.  It's incredibly uniform in finish. The jet black diamond is lovely

 

 

Some info.. these are resellers

 

https://shop.surfacematter.co.uk/collections/richlite/products/richlite-bass-fretboard-blanks

 

And some interesting multi colour fretboards, though probably for 6 string guitar boards

 

https://shop.surfacematter.co.uk/collections/richlite/products/richlite-multicolour-guitar-fretboard-blanks?variant=33005897220184

 

 

Richlite webby..

 

https://richlite.co.uk/

Edited by fleabag
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And onto fret cutting.

 

And here we have the same issue.  I use the G&W fretting mitre block.  The blank sticks to a metal notched template...you guessed it...with industrial quality double sided tape.  Usually, I would use one inch strip at either end and one in the middle.  Here I have two lengths of it all the way down the board. 

 

And I can still easily move the board from side to side!  So I am going to use the tape simply to stop the board from creeping forwards and backwards and, to stop it moving with the saw cuts, I've cut some wooden wedges that I can fit in the gap between the board and the jig sides and remove them and replace them for each fret progression, and use a sturdy bench clamp to ensure that the board cannot move, however much pull is on the saw:

v19bmBil.jpg

Edited by Andyjr1515
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And so - how is Richlite going to behave in fret cutting compared with ebony:

- Well, it's tough stuff.  I reckon I might need a new tenon saw when I've done all 22 frets plus zero slots ;)

- It is very hard work...even in my prime, I don't think I could slot one in a single session.  Then again, I would say the same for ebony.

- But ebony grabs the blade, and early on.  Richlite still grabs the blade, but much later on.  Nevertheless - you can see the workbench.  It is VERY heavy.  And the jig is screwed to it. And the bench has moved an inch away from the wall after a dozen frets

- Nice clean slots, though and no chipping!

OWDR0Zal.jpg

 

 

And so, 15 slots done, 8 to go:

V8UErDRl.jpg

 

Time for another break.  Besides, the local village Defibrillation Team have told me either to get rid of the smart watch or give up woodworking.

 

:)

 

  

 

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39 minutes ago, Richard R said:

It says on the web site that the fret slots might need to be wider as the material is harder than wood. 

 

I sent Andy all the info before he started, so he'll be well aware.  Have faith, he knows what he's doing despite his Ovaltine/Horlicks induced comas  :)

 

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