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4 string basses with 18mm spacing and flat radius necks.


dave_bass5
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Last week i got a 5 string that played and feels great. Very comfortable to play, but i really dont need a 5 string. 

Obviously i can just not play that string, but it got me thinking why i keep going over to 5 strings, and then back to 4.

Its the narrower string spacing. I love how a 5 string feels to play, even if I’m only using E-G most of the time, and I’m guessing the flatter radius (12” over above) also adds to this.

So now I’m looking for a mid price 4 string. Around £400-600 preferably. Definitely, definitely not looking to get a boutique one or a custom build. 

What are the options? I guess a P type would suit me better, but I’m not adversed  to soapbar pups. Not really looking for a jazz type of bass. 

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11 minutes ago, hooky_lowdown said:

Wouldn't it be easier to buy an 18mm bridge and fit that to any bass you like?

I don’t know, would it?

Ive gone down from 20mm to 19mm, but never thought about going any lower. Wouldn’t that effect how the rest of the bass is set up? wouldn't here be more of a gap at the edges of the neck?

I dont have a bass that I could do it to anyway, so I’d still need to buy a new bass. Just wondering what off the shelf basses have this narrower spacing. 

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23 minutes ago, dave_bass5 said:

I don’t know, would it?

Ive gone down from 20mm to 19mm, but never thought about going any lower. Wouldn’t that effect how the rest of the bass is set up? wouldn't here be more of a gap at the edges of the neck?

I dont have a bass that I could do it to anyway, so I’d still need to buy a new bass. Just wondering what off the shelf basses have this narrower spacing. 

You should try my Fender performer IIRC it's about 16mm.

A standard Jazz is 18mm.

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20 minutes ago, Storky said:

Ohh, that is nice. I have looked at Ibanez, but couldn’t find the string spacing for a lot of them. I will investigate this one a bit more. 

Gotta love BC for helping up the budget lol. 

 

19 minutes ago, Stub Mandrel said:

You should try my Fender performer IIRC it's about 16mm.

A standard Jazz is 18mm.

I dont think 18mm is standard. Definitely not Fender jazz basses as they use standard bridges like most other brands. Ive never owned a jazz bass that didn’t have a standard 19mm bridge, and ive had a few Fenders. 

Just checked a review of the Performer Jazz and it states 19mm. 

Edited by dave_bass5
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I know it’s not exactly the specs you’re looking for , but The Sandberg Electra VS4  has a 14 in radius fretboard and I think the string spacing goes to 18- 18.5 , maybe worth a look Dave .   https://www.dv247.com/en_GB/GBP/Sandberg-Electra-VS4-MN-Creme-Highgloss/art-BAS0009256-000?campaign=PSM_UK/kelkoo&ProgramUUID=MrLAqJarZEUAAAFobL.P7Dz7&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIk7bRw-aa6AIVVvlRCh1B6g4lEAkYAiABEgIxrPD_BwE

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2 minutes ago, Reggaebass said:

I know it’s not exactly the specs you’re looking for , but The Sandberg Electra VS4  has a 14 in radius fretboard and I think the string spacing goes to 18- 18.5 , maybe worth a look Dave .   https://www.dv247.com/en_GB/GBP/Sandberg-Electra-VS4-MN-Creme-Highgloss/art-BAS0009256-000?campaign=PSM_UK/kelkoo&ProgramUUID=MrLAqJarZEUAAAFobL.P7Dz7&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIk7bRw-aa6AIVVvlRCh1B6g4lEAkYAiABEgIxrPD_BwE

Wow, now that almost ticks all the boxes. Love maple boards, and who doesn’t like a white body. That would be on its way IF it had fret markers/dots. I don’t need them, but ive always hated how Sandberg necks look without them.

Thanks anyway. 

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53 minutes ago, dave_bass5 said:

I dont think 18mm is standard. Definitely not Fender jazz basses as they use standard bridges like most other brands. Ive never owned a jazz bass that didn’t have a standard 19mm bridge, and ive had a few Fenders.

Its a Squier Standard, but I just realised I measured without taking the bridge cover off so it probably is 19mm... Sorry!

53 minutes ago, dave_bass5 said:

Just checked a review of the Performer Jazz and it states 19mm. 

No I mean the Fender Performer from 1987. I haven't got it handy to measure, but I do know it's 53mm at the 20th fret compared to 63mm for a jazz, so 10mm less neck(!) there could mean it's even less than 3x3mm less at the bridge (scaling from a photo suggests 15mm but I'm not 100% sure). Possibly the skinniest-necked bass ever made by a major manufacturer?

Edited by Stub Mandrel
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20 minutes ago, jrixn1 said:

Warwick Rockbass Streamer LX 4, approx £600, flat (20") radius, P-pickup, string spacing adjustable to at least 18mm - and available in white.

 

15 minutes ago, jrixn1 said:

P.S. You can buy fret marker stickers

https://www.inlaystickers.com/collections/1-bass

Cheers. Ill have a look at thre LX4. 

Not a big deal breaker as far as ther markers go, but i firmly  believe a P bass shouldn’t/doesn’t need to  be active. As long as it can be defeated though its not an issue. Again, if everything else fits the bill then i can overcome it. 

Edited by dave_bass5
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28 minutes ago, Stub Mandrel said:

Its a Squier Standard, but I just realised I measured without taking the bridge cover off so it probably is 19mm... Sorry!

No I mean the Fender Performer from 1987. I haven't got it handy to measure, but I do know it's 53mm at the 20th fret compared to 63mm for a jazz, so 10mm less neck(!) there could mean it's even less than 3x3mm less at the bridge (scaling from a photo suggests 15mm but I'm not 100% sure). Possibly the skinniest-necked bass ever made by a major manufacturer?

Ah cool. Never played one of those old basses. I’m not too worried about the nut width, I’m guessing a narrow bridge would mean its not going to have a wide nut. Something between 38-40,me is perfect for me. 

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6 minutes ago, Cuzzie said:

Get a Schaller 3D bridge and choose your string spacing 

Will that be ok as far as nut, neck and pup spacing goes? 

I used to have one on my old Squier JV P, but I remember there was quite a bit of space either side of the E and G string on the outside. 

As i said above though, i dont have a bass i can do with with so i will still have to buy a new bass. 

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If you did have a bass to do it to you you probably have to do some wood filling (depending how many screws it has), pop the bridge in the same location to keep the scale length, change the nut. As far as pick ups go, will if it had blades, flat magnets and not pole pieces then it matters less exactly where the strings are over the pick up. Being off pole pieces and not central is not a huge issue, it gives a different sound, and may not be as consistent so you may have to tinker. Some basses are deliberately lined up not directly over the pole pieces - Sting Ray Old Smoothie as an example.

so far as the neck profile, that’s completely up to you, there are flat radius ones out there, remember you can always shave an existing neck down to your requirements should you find the right bass, but not quite right neck

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This was my worry.

While ive put 19mm bridges on my bases that came with 20mm (my Squires IIR), I’d have thought a bass would be designed for the bridge it comes with. I’m sure the screw holes would be ok, but yes, pup alignment and width of neck must surely come in to it. Might not be a huge difference but I’d prefer to go the route with a new bass already being set up for 18mm (or even 17mm). 

But then my other thought is i doubt manufacturers make different sized pups and necks for a slightly narrower set up, so it’s possible that any bass that does have the narrower spacing is still using off the shelf parts. Obviously i could and probably am wrong. 

I guess the radius isnt too important, at least 10-12” should be fine. 

No, it has to be a new bass this time with everything in place. 

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7 minutes ago, dave_bass5 said:

This was my worry.

While ive put 19mm bridges on my bases that came with 20mm (my Squires IIR), I’d have thought a bass would be designed for the bridge it comes with. I’m sure the screw holes would be ok, but yes, pup alignment and width of neck must surely come in to it. Might not be a huge difference but I’d prefer to go the route with a new bass already being set up for 18mm (or even 17mm). 

But then my other thought is i doubt manufacturers make different sized pups and necks for a slightly narrower set up, so it’s possible that any bass that does have the narrower spacing is still using off the shelf parts. Obviously i could and probably am wrong. 

I guess the radius isnt too important, at least 10-12” should be fine. 

No, it has to be a new bass this time with everything in place. 

All the pick ups are, are magnets that create a field for picking up strong vibrations.

Right over the field, stronger, slightly off the field. Weaker.

Possibly less important with fat pole pieces, if it’s 2 per string, well so long as all strings are dead on or dead off it doesn’t matter, you can equalise loudness of the note with location, height, technique etc. Blades as mentioned, not an issue

so far as narrowing the spacing, it really is not an issue. I modded a Jazz bass to have Rickenbacker pick ups instead. The normal Rick neck pick up is slightly smaller as it is normally closer to the neck heel, and I have moved it backwards so the E and G strings were just outside. schaller 3D bridge brought them all into the field.

Ultimately you’ll do what’s right, but there are many ways to skin a cat, but doing it yourself gives a very customised bass which is sometimes more satisfying

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Ok, im convinced. I’ll find a narrow bridge and see what I can do with my Squier CVP. I’ve seen a lot of P basses where the strings don’t cross the pole pieces dead centre so not to fussed if they are off a bit  

I’m useless with wood so won’t attempt to make any other alterations to the bass, although happy to still new holes for the bridge if I have to  

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