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Al Krow

The Yamaha BB mega-thread

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5 minutes ago, TRBboy said:

Thank you! 😊👍

Let us know how you get on with the P34 tonight. I'd love to try one of the Pro series and see how much they differ from the 400 series. 

Yep, I’ll post back tomorrow. 

I too am interested in comparing the two, going the other way. Might pop in to the Yamaha shop at some point. 

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Just had a slightly nerdy session dating my Ibby and Yammy basses. In case this is of interest to any one else...

The more modern Ibby SR Premiums are a doddle to date: the first four numbers are the date (and the remaining 5 digits the production run number in that month) so 1608xxxxx is very easily Aug 2016 

More recent Yamaha BBs seem to use a YY-M format with the first 3 letters providing the date, but using the following code: H=1, I=2, J=3, K=4, L=5, M=6, N=7, O=8, P=9, Q=0, X=10, Y=11, Z=12

=> HMI = 16-2 i.e. Feb 2016

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10 minutes ago, Al Krow said:

More recent Yamaha BBs seem to use a YY-M format with the first 3 letters providing the date, but using the following code: H=1, I=2, J=3, K=4, L=5, M=6, N=7, O=8, P=9, Q=0, X=10, Y=11, Z=12

=> HMI = 16-2 i.e. Feb 2016

Nice info! Just checked and my BB734 was made in May 2017, not too long ago it seems!

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Just now, dave_bass5 said:

My P34 hasn’t been made yet. 😳

Interesting! What are the first 3 letters of the serial no?

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23 minutes ago, Al Krow said:

Interesting! What are the first 3 letters of the serial no?

Haha, i was joking. Bass is in the car, I’ll check it tomorrow. 

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7 minutes ago, dave_bass5 said:

Haha, i was joking. Bass is in the car, I’ll check it tomorrow. 

Defo gotta improve the quality of dem jokes Mr DB5 😁

Have a great gig! 😊

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2 minutes ago, Al Krow said:

Defo gotta improve the quality of dem jokes Mr DB5 😁

Have a great gig! 😊

Sorry, been hanging around the Christmas cracker factory too long. 
I found a photo on my phone of the back of the headstock. I always do that so I have a visual record of the serial number.

April 2018 is the correct answer.

Cheers, , I’m sure the P34 will do well tonight, not sure about the band though 🙂

 

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Does anyone know if the hardware is 'better' quality on the Pro series, or is it just a different finish? 

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1 minute ago, TRBboy said:

Does anyone know if the hardware is 'better' quality on the Pro series, or is it just a different finish? 

Check the very first post in this thread - I've posted a comparison table there, which I did a while back for another BCer, for ease of reference. 

Shows the difference in design and materials between three of the Series 3 basses. 

The P34 will be pretty similar for actual materials to the 734A but is purely passive. In terms of finish: it's MIJ and has one of the Yammy bespoke sonic treatments (and I think dB mentioned having the fretboard additionally oiled also?) 

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26 minutes ago, Al Krow said:

Check the very first post in this thread - I've posted a comparison table there, which I did a while back for another BCer, for ease of reference. 

Shows the difference in design and materials between three of the Series 3 basses. 

The P34 will be pretty similar for actual materials to the 734A but is purely passive. In terms of finish: it's MIJ and has one of the Yammy bespoke sonic treatments (and I think dB mentioned having the fretboard additionally oiled also?) 

Sorry Al, I was thinking more about the tuners, even though I didn't specify that! 🤦‍♂️

Just wondered if they're exactly the same, just a different finish, or if they're a different metal, quality, etc. 

I do love the bridges on the 700/pro series, tempted to see if I could buy one as a spare part from Yamaha. They'd probably ask for my serial number though.... 😬

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20 hours ago, razor5cl said:

Nice info! Just checked and my BB734 was made in May 2017, not too long ago it seems!

Same as mine. It would interesting to know which model was more successful, I suspect it could be the 434/435

Edited by Corto14

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My 734a is the most expensive bass I've ever played (and owned); it feels soo good, so comfortable and well built. I cannot even immagine how better could be the bbp34. Too bad that the headstock is glossy and not satin, like the Indonesian model; this is definitely an excellent antidote to my G.A.S. 😂
 

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1 minute ago, Corto14 said:

My 734a is the most expensive bass I've ever played (and owned); it feels soo good, so comfortable and well built. I cannot even immagine how better could be the bbp34. Too bad that the headstock is glossy and not satin, like the Indonesian model; this is definitely an excellent antidote to my G.A.S. 😂
 

The P34 won’t be much different as they use more or less the same materials and hardware. Obviously a bit different, but IMO not as much as the cost difference. 

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21 hours ago, TRBboy said:

Thank you! 😊👍

Let us know how you get on with the P34 tonight. I'd love to try one of the Pro series and see how much they differ from the 400 series. 

Had a very enjoyable gig with the P34 last night. First proper gig with it, along with everything else that is new since the last gig, including the rig and Stomp.  Horrible acoustics, very boomy stage so certain notes were very loud. Having the bridge pup helped cut through though. Very happy with how the P34 felt strapped on. 

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21 hours ago, Al Krow said:

Just had a slightly nerdy session dating my Ibby and Yammy basses. In case this is of interest to any one else...

The more modern Ibby SR Premiums are a doddle to date: the first four numbers are the date (and the remaining 5 digits the production run number in that month) so 1608xxxxx is very easily Aug 2016 

More recent Yamaha BBs seem to use a YY-M format with the first 3 letters providing the date, but using the following code: H=1, I=2, J=3, K=4, L=5, M=6, N=7, O=8, P=9, Q=0, X=10, Y=11, Z=12

=> HMI = 16-2 i.e. Feb 2016

Just looked at my 435, and it was made in May 17!

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2 minutes ago, TRBboy said:

Just found an old pic of me playing my BB414! 🤣

FB_IMG_1569159848240.jpg

Haha, very Prince!!!

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27 minutes ago, TRBboy said:

Just looked at my 435, and it was made in May 17!

Is that one you've just bought? If so the new 3 series was only announced in March 2017 (and that was the prompt for this thread in fact!),  so yours must have been a relatively early production run soon after they were announced.

I actually bought my BB 1025 in Jan 2018. But the headstock number starts with HLX which puts its date of manufacture at Oct 2015. Apparently it was the very last of these available in Europe according to the Yammy store, or so they told me!, and they were at least offering them at pretty decent end of line discounts.

What got me thinking about this was a recent Spector bass purchase and the retailer disclosing that it was a 2015/16 year of manufacture when I was getting some background information on it. (I've since pinned it down to Sept 2016). Well that gave me reasonable ammo to negotiate, 'cos it was clearly 'New Old Stock' rather than a brand new bass. Certainly something I will be more aware of going forward!

Overwhelming view from fellow BC'ers and TB'ers is that they year of manufacture is the relevant date:

https://www.talkbass.com/threads/whats-the-relevant-age-for-a-bass.1418849/

Edited by Al Krow
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17 hours ago, Al Krow said:

Is that one you've just bought? If so the new 3 series was only announced in March 2017 (and that was the prompt for this thread in fact!),  so yours must have been a relatively early production run soon after they were announced.

I actually bought my BB 1025 in Jan 2018. But the headstock number starts with HLX which puts its date of manufacture at Oct 2015. Apparently it was the very last of these available in Europe according to the Yammy store, or so they told me!, and they were at least offering them at pretty decent end of line discounts.

What got me thinking about this was a recent Spector bass purchase and the retailer disclosing that it was a 2015/16 year of manufacture when I was getting some background information on it. (I've since pinned it down to Sept 2016). Well that gave me reasonable ammo to negotiate, 'cos it was clearly 'New Old Stock' rather than a brand new bass. Certainly something I will be more aware of going forward!

Overwhelming view from fellow BC'ers and TB'ers is that they year of manufacture is the relevant date:

https://www.talkbass.com/threads/whats-the-relevant-age-for-a-bass.1418849/

Yeah that is the one I've just bought! 😯

I was thinking that I've got no issues with the tuners being loose, so maybe they've fixed the problem, but if this is an early model I guess that's not the case! 

I need to contact GAK today actually, because I restrung it yesterday, and noticed that there's a gouge in the fretboard near the nut, and also the nut fell out when I took the strings off! Can be easily fixed when I get some superglue, but shouldn't happen on a brand new bass. 

IMG_20190922_172405.jpg

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4 minutes ago, Al Krow said:

Hope you get that sorted / a decent response from GAK 

Spoke to them, but they said I need to fill in the contact form. They said they'll just exchange it... But I don't know if I want to because it's good! Plus I'll have to change the strings back... Hmmm.... Would probably rather they just give me a bit of money back or a freebie... 

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3 minutes ago, TRBboy said:

Spoke to them, but they said I need to fill in the contact form. They said they'll just exchange it... But I don't know if I want to because it's good! Plus I'll have to change the strings back... Hmmm.... Would probably rather they just give me a bit of money back or a freebie... 

Actually that's a pat on the back for GAK for being willing to give you a pretty hassle free exchange. They maybe willing to give you a freebie if you say it's going to save on courier costs etc. See if you can sweet talk them! 

I'm still waiting for a refund from Bax for a faulty pedal I returned and which they've confirmed they had received back 4 weeks ago and this has required several calls from me to progress! 

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Superglue (Cyano Acrylate) is the glue to use. A little bit is all that's needed on the side of the nut and not the bottom, you don't want to rise the action at the first fret !
. I wouldn't use Elmer's or wood glue because the glue film would be a little too thick.
Disregard this info/advice  if you've have done guitar repairs before lol
Good luck with the new bass
 
 
 
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