KingBollock Posted May 2, 2014 Share Posted May 2, 2014 It looks as though there used to be a tweeter fitted which, along with the port, would explain why the brace doesn't go all the way up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleabag Posted May 2, 2014 Author Share Posted May 2, 2014 Yes, i believe the Peavey TX 210 was fitted with a tweeter at the factory, but was removed by a previous owner, and no problem for me. I hate tweeters Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleabag Posted May 7, 2014 Author Share Posted May 7, 2014 Stevie - i have just found out that if i fit the braces, i wont be able to get to the only area where a 2nd port can be fitted , assuming you think i still need one. I can get to the outside backboard obviously, but i'd want to seal the port on the inside too The Beymas have been promised for delivery today ( Thurs ) and i have already cut the braces for cab 1, but as stated, will not fit them till i've sorted the 2nd port - can you run your software and see what pans out, taking into consideration the first port is staying put ? I had a look in case i needed to remove it but its well glued in, and i'd wreck the board getting it out cheers ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevie Posted May 8, 2014 Share Posted May 8, 2014 The two drivers you have will comfortably handle around 300 watts of bass in your box. Although one port was sufficient with your previous drivers, you really need to add a second port if you are going to take advantage of your new drivers' higher power. Two ports of 95mm internal diameter need to be 140mm long - which means extending your existing one or taking it out and fitting two plastic ones with flanges. Braces are something that you can always add later. To check whether braces would help, feel how much the panels of your cab are vibrating when you play your bottom E. Just out of interest, this is the kind of frequency response you can expect (bear in mind that the room will compensate to some extent for the fall in the bottom octave): [IMG]http://i58.tinypic.com/9sqtfa.jpg[/IMG] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dannybuoy Posted May 8, 2014 Share Posted May 8, 2014 Question for you gurus - does the wadding affect the internal dimensions used in calculations, or is the assumption made that the sound waves travel straight through it so it is ignored? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleabag Posted May 8, 2014 Author Share Posted May 8, 2014 [quote name='stevie' timestamp='1399539000' post='2445073'] The two drivers you have will comfortably handle around 300 watts of bass in your box. Although one port was sufficient with your previous drivers, you really need to add a second port if you are going to take advantage of your new drivers' higher power. Two ports of 95mm internal diameter need to be 140mm long - which means extending your existing one or taking it out and fitting two plastic ones with flanges. Braces are something that you can always add later. To check whether braces would help, feel how much the panels of your cab are vibrating when you play your bottom E. Just out of interest, this is the kind of frequency response you can expect (bear in mind that the room will compensate to some extent for the fall in the bottom octave): [/quote] Many thanks stevie !! Thats a quick reply So, instead of faffing about adding an extra port, i can extend the original one to 140 mm ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleabag Posted May 8, 2014 Author Share Posted May 8, 2014 I've just cottoned on - ports need to be 140 EACH Hence extending the first one by 45mm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleabag Posted May 8, 2014 Author Share Posted May 8, 2014 Wow - tricky. Seems i cannot find those exact dimensions in a port tube Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Starr Posted May 8, 2014 Share Posted May 8, 2014 I suspect it is 100mm outside diameter if so this is esily available though not so easy in black. Wickes/Screwfix all do it in white http://www.screwfix.com/p/round-pipe-350-x-100mm/15872?kpid=15872&cm_mmc=Google-_-Product%20Listing%20Ads-_-Sales%20Tracking-_-sales%20tracking%20url&gclid=CODQz6OvnL4CFbDJtAodpgcABg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleabag Posted May 8, 2014 Author Share Posted May 8, 2014 Cheers Phil - that makes sense. Dont mind about the colour - stevie suggests a flanged port, so how would i go about this with that Screwfix pipe ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevie Posted May 8, 2014 Share Posted May 8, 2014 I was thinking of this kind of thing: https://www.bluearan.co.uk/index.php?id=EVNL092C_2PK. They are just a lot easier to fit because you don't need a perfectly round hole. The flange covers your bodges with the jigsaw. Unfortunately, those ones are a bit short, although they would do at a pinch. If you keep looking you will find some adjustable ones that would be better, but they might be a bit pricey. Phil's idea of drain pipe will give you greater flexibility at a reasonable cost, but does require a neat hole to look good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevie Posted May 8, 2014 Share Posted May 8, 2014 [quote name='dannybuoy' timestamp='1399540928' post='2445103'] Question for you gurus - does the wadding affect the internal dimensions used in calculations, or is the assumption made that the sound waves travel straight through it so it is ignored? [/quote] For calculating cabinet size it's normally ignored. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleabag Posted May 8, 2014 Author Share Posted May 8, 2014 (edited) [quote name='stevie' timestamp='1399562776' post='2445381'] I was thinking of this kind of thing: [url="https://www.bluearan.co.uk/index.php?id=EVNL092C_2PK."]https://www.bluearan...d=EVNL092C_2PK.[/url] They are just a lot easier to fit because you don't need a perfectly round hole. The flange covers your bodges with the jigsaw. Unfortunately, those ones are a bit short, although they would do at a pinch. If you keep looking you will find some adjustable ones that would be better, but they might be a bit pricey. Phil's idea of drain pipe will give you greater flexibility at a reasonable cost, but does require a neat hole to look good. [/quote] Checked your link stevie but just get a Blue Arans homepage and a large blank area - but i assume its somewhere amongst this lot ... [url="http://www.bluearan.co.uk/index.php?search=port+tube&x=9&y=11&stk=Any+Stock+Availability&perp=10"]http://www.bluearan....ability&perp=10[/url] I agree an adjustable one would be brilliant, but i've just blown my wallet on those Beymas, so PVC pipe is on the cards. I'm looking for function over form anyways, so i'll just tart it up as best a i can Checked the Beymas on the original mounting holes from the Peavey drivers, and they line up a treat. Strangely, the original Peavey drivers were only mounted using 4 points. Weird. The Beymas ( like the Beta 10's that were fitted but were still only mounted with 4 bolts ) are 8 hole mounting so i'm drilling another 4 holes in each speaker mount area Edited May 8, 2014 by fleabag Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleabag Posted May 8, 2014 Author Share Posted May 8, 2014 Arrived from Blue Aran this morning [IMG]http://i58.tinypic.com/2z7mxee.jpg[/IMG] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevie Posted May 8, 2014 Share Posted May 8, 2014 (edited) [quote name='fleabag' timestamp='1399563683' post='2445388'] Checked your link stevie but just get a Blue Arans homepage and a large blank area - but i assume its somewhere amongst this lot ... [url="http://www.bluearan.co.uk/index.php?search=port+tube&x=9&y=11&stk=Any+Stock+Availability&perp=10"]http://www.bluearan....ability&perp=10[/url] [/quote] Yes. Sorry about that. The Monacor monacor mbr-100. Those drivers look quality. Edited May 8, 2014 by stevie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleabag Posted May 8, 2014 Author Share Posted May 8, 2014 (edited) Thanks stevie - found 'em ! On hold till some extra T-nuts and extra bolts get delivered. I'll start on the porting i think. Screwfix possibly tomorrow, cos i'm a cheap skate Edited May 8, 2014 by fleabag Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleabag Posted May 9, 2014 Author Share Posted May 9, 2014 Dang, that wsn't easy. Fair play to all those DIY ers. I found this a pain in the buttocks, and i guess its mainly down to living in a flat, no shed or garage, working in my kitchen on the floor, with the wrong tools. Still, the ports are in. 98 I.D. x 140mm PVC pipe, as per mr Starr's suggestion, and the 100mm coupler with centre stop ridge made the perfect extender to lengthen the original Peavey port out from 95mm to 140mm Although using black silicone ( its all i had ) was not the wisest choice, at least most of it is inside the cab, but i'm thinking white silicone next time, for the 2nd cab Braces next, then the T-nuts & bolts should be here to mount the Beyma via all 8 holes instead of 4 , as per the the Betas [IMG]http://i58.tinypic.com/217dkk.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i59.tinypic.com/2yw93q9.jpg[/IMG] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleabag Posted May 9, 2014 Author Share Posted May 9, 2014 [IMG]http://i58.tinypic.com/2gt0zl4.jpg[/IMG] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redstriper Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 I'm watching this thread with great interest - wondering if I should do the same thing with my 15" Flite cabs. They are apparently too small for the drivers and I've been told the port is too small. The problem is that they are made of a foam filled composite, so I'm not sure how they will take to being cut - also not sure what size ports to fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleabag Posted May 9, 2014 Author Share Posted May 9, 2014 There's a gang of very knowledgable cab folk here - the best way is to kick off a thread and ask questions like i did. You'll be steered on the right direction. Don't just guess - ask away ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JPJ Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 Don't forget to put some wadding on the inside of the back as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleabag Posted May 9, 2014 Author Share Posted May 9, 2014 yeah i could squeeze a bit more in i reckon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redstriper Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 [quote name='fleabag' timestamp='1399660285' post='2446475'] There's a gang of very knowledgable cab folk here - the best way is to kick off a thread and ask questions like i did. You'll be steered on the right direction. Don't just guess - ask away ! [/quote] Thanks - I have: [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/236510-can-i-improve-my-cabs-at-all-again/"]http://basschat.co.uk/topic/236510-can-i-improve-my-cabs-at-all-again/[/url] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Starr Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 (edited) I'm fairly sceptical about wadding. First of all, to answer the earlier question it doesn't alter the effective volume. There's a lot of air in the wadding and it moves inside the cab. I've seen the argument that lots of wadding increases the effective volume of sealed and transmission line cabs and seen some measuremnts that would seem to support this. However the data I've seen implies that only high density wadding has a significant effect on damping inside the cab. Vance Dickason talks about 50% of the cab being stuffed with 4lbsfibreglass/cu ft. The wadding you have is almost certainly too light to be very effective. I've also seen arguments that wadding inside a ported cab is generally a bad idea, certainly it needs to be kept away from the ports, I've tried packing a cab and completely removing the wadding from its pair, ending up with little difference in sound between them. the exception to this is the wadding directly behind the speaker which aims to stop sound bouncing off the rear panel being reflected straight back through the thin paper cone. I like to put some fairly heavy wadding on the back panel and leave the rest of the cab unfilled. This does make an audible difference and I'd move your wadding to the back panel immediately behind the speakers. Edited May 9, 2014 by Phil Starr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleabag Posted May 9, 2014 Author Share Posted May 9, 2014 Thanks for the enlightenment Phil. it seems to come away from the boards fairly easily as i found out. Its a little thin, that wadding. I may double it up for a bit of extra thickness, since the stuff i take off elsewhere will be spare Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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