Grangur Posted February 22, 2014 Share Posted February 22, 2014 (edited) Hi Guys, A new bass day is here and I've got some work to do on this one. It's reputedly a bass made in the GDR in the 70s. In any case it's dirty, been strung as left-handed and tthe machine-head has been seriously doctored. Here's a link to [url="http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/Grangur/slideshow/BC-pics/GDR%20bass"]the pics[/url] The claim to the old East Germany (GDR) is from a small gold sticker on the back of the headstock. I'm happy to work on it and get the bass all cleaned up and check the pups out before I think about replacing them, but the doctoring of the headstock is off the wall. As you can see 2 of the tuners have been moved. The holes have been re-filled with a cement type stuff and the tops filled on the back with 1/2p pieces (as you do). What would you do with this if it were yours? The options I see as being options are: 1. Leave it as it is - it's quirky and part of it's history. 2. Drill out the original holes, fill the "new" ones (but with what?) Thanks for looking Edited March 2, 2014 by Grangur Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prosebass Posted February 22, 2014 Share Posted February 22, 2014 Option 2 as it looks hideous as is. Open up the original holes, fill the 'extra' holes with glued in dowel, read up on veneering and put a 0.6mm veneer on the front and back of the headstock, finish off with a nice roller string tree, simples.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grangur Posted February 22, 2014 Author Share Posted February 22, 2014 [quote name='Prosebass' timestamp='1393064735' post='2375725'] Option 2 as it looks hideous as is. Open up the original holes, fill the 'extra' holes with glued in dowel, read up on veneering and put a 0.6mm veneer on the front and back of the headstock, finish off with a nice roller string tree, simples.... [/quote] Yes, I think it looks hideous too. I've never done any veneering, but it's a new skill to learn. I'd not thought of that. Many thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunderbird Posted February 22, 2014 Share Posted February 22, 2014 [quote name='Prosebass' timestamp='1393064735' post='2375725'] Option 2 as it looks hideous as is. Open up the original holes, fill the 'extra' holes with glued in dowel, read up on veneering and put a 0.6mm veneer on the front and back of the headstock, finish off with a nice roller string tree, simples.... [/quote] This +1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HowieBass Posted February 22, 2014 Share Posted February 22, 2014 (edited) [quote name='Prosebass' timestamp='1393064735' post='2375725'] Option 2 as it looks hideous as is. Open up the original holes, fill the 'extra' holes with glued in dowel, read up on veneering and put a 0.6mm veneer on the front and back of the headstock, finish off with a nice roller string tree, simples.... [/quote] This +2 ... also you might look into having a waterslide decal made to cover the repair where the two tuning pegs currently sit... Edited February 22, 2014 by HowieBass Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ou7shined Posted February 22, 2014 Share Posted February 22, 2014 Haha I kinda like it as it is as a rat-bass. I have a noname blonde/natural bass with an identical pickguard (same tr access and hole layout - except for the lower thunbrest) and the neck construction looks very similar to yours. I wonder if they have the same origin. Does yours have a longer/less wide looking neck plate than standard? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grangur Posted February 22, 2014 Author Share Posted February 22, 2014 [quote name='Ou7shined' timestamp='1393070665' post='2375810'] Haha I kinda like it as it is as a rat-bass. I have a noname blonde/natural bass with an identical pickguard (same tr access and hole layout - except for the lower thunbrest) and the neck construction looks very similar to yours. I wonder if they have the same origin. Does yours have a longer/less wide looking neck plate than standard? [/quote] Hi Rich, the neckplate is the same size as a Squier one I have here. But having removed the neck screws, the plate has stayed stuck to the body, so me suspects it's been sprayed and assembled too soon after, so some things have stuck. The neck is nice and light. It's less weighty than a de-fretted rosewood one I have here. The neck pocket is about 62mm. The pickguard is slightly longer than a standard Squier one though. The pups have covers - not integral with the pup and the tail wires are red & white. I don't know if this helps, but.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grangur Posted February 22, 2014 Author Share Posted February 22, 2014 Update: I just dug out the 1/2p pieces and found it had some kind of pink putty behind. Dug that out and the round plugs turned out to be dowels. Not full depth though. I think the brown must also be paint; to make it look like wood.(?) Off now to B&Q to find some dowel. And Gig Gear to get a new nut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ou7shined Posted February 22, 2014 Share Posted February 22, 2014 (edited) [quote name='Grangur' timestamp='1393071484' post='2375822'] Hi Rich, the neckplate is the same size as a Squier one I have here. But having removed the neck screws, the plate has stayed stuck to the body, so me suspects it's been sprayed and assembled too soon after, so some things have stuck. The neck is nice and light. It's less weighty than a de-fretted rosewood one I have here. The neck pocket is about 62mm. The pickguard is slightly longer than a standard Squier one though. The pups have covers - not integral with the pup and the tail wires are red & white. I don't know if this helps, but.... [/quote] Maybe not the same then. Mine has a longer thinner neck pocket too but I think it's (from memory) 61mm at it's widest part. It's also noticeable for being a 4 or 5 piece laminate (edit) [b]neck[/b]. It has no side markers either but I have seen one other which did have them. It cost me 80 bucks... but is up there with the best for playability and sound (original Dimarzio's).... must be because it's from the 70s [/sarcy reference to another thread] Edited February 22, 2014 by Ou7shined Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prosebass Posted February 22, 2014 Share Posted February 22, 2014 You could turn it into a six string? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grangur Posted February 22, 2014 Author Share Posted February 22, 2014 [quote name='Prosebass' timestamp='1393075633' post='2375879'] You could turn it into a six string? [/quote]Yeah! Besides, 6 strings with a 42mm nut are so hard to find these days! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grangur Posted February 22, 2014 Author Share Posted February 22, 2014 [quote name='Ou7shined' timestamp='1393073954' post='2375860'] Maybe not the same then. Mine has a longer thinner neck pocket too but I think it's (from memory) 61mm at it's widest part. It's also noticeable for being a 4 or 5 piece laminate (edit) [b]neck[/b]. It has no side markers either but I have seen one other which did have them. It cost me 80 bucks... but is up there with the best for playability and sound (original Dimarzio's).... must be because it's from the 70s [/sarcy reference to another thread] [/quote] Just measured it properly - 61mm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gary mac Posted February 22, 2014 Share Posted February 22, 2014 You are certainly getting the tinkering/modding bug Richard. Looking forward to seeing the finished job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grangur Posted March 2, 2014 Author Share Posted March 2, 2014 Things have moved along a bit now and I've filled the holes and started on the veneer. A thought struck me; I filled them with wine corks. I trimmed them and sanded the tops, filled any gaps with wood filler and sanded again. I then started on my first try at veneering. I wish it was a great success. but one of the edges has splintered a bit. Most is ok, but the top edge isn't so great. So, should I rip it off and start again or leave it? Any tips, ideas, etc very welcome. Thanks Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gary mac Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 If it's always going to bug you, then I would say do it again Rich. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunderbird Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 (edited) Or paint it in pinstripe style in black then it would be very hard to see but as Gary says if it is bugging you rip it off and start again or if the veneering is not going great how about vinyl wrapping? Edited March 2, 2014 by Thunderbird Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HowieBass Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 The tuning pegs are going to hide most of the flaws in that veneer aren't they? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grangur Posted March 2, 2014 Author Share Posted March 2, 2014 Hmmm... all good points. Gary's right. I'm a bit of a perfectionist. When I got the veneer I picked up twice as much as I actually need for the job. So I have enough to do it again. Howie may also have a good point. The tuning heads would be a good distraction from the edge. I've started on the other side for now, only this time I'm being careful to make sure I get enough glue to cover the edges. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icastle Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 I think I'd have been inclined to have cut the veneer slightly larger than the area that needed covering and then slowly but surely remove the excess using sandpaper afterwards (once the glue has dried obviously). Take your time with it and you'll be able to get a nicer chamfer on the back edge that way than the sharp 90 degree edge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apa Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 Not sure which method you used for veneering but it can be very very simple. W resin wood glue (Interior not exterior use) watered down with 20% water. paint it liberally on the veneer with two coats letting the first one completely dry. Warning - the veneer will curl up so try and stop it a little to prevent it sticking to itself. When its completely dry - ie clear, place on the head stock and iron on. Yes get your domestic iron, empty all the water out and switch the steam off, place a piece of paper over the veneer and iron on with plenty of pressure. Only takes a couple of minutes. The tricky bit will be the turn up on the front face as it reaches the nut but keep pressing and it will stick. As icastle says, cut it a little bugger and sand back. It sands very quickly since its only 0.6mm thick. Personally I would use maple to match the rest of the neck. You wont notice the join as much if its a bit wobbly. Its pretty cheap off ebay. I've done this to a couple of modded bases and a few scratch plates this way. I did the exact thing to a 5 string I converted from 4+1 to 5 in a row. Dowel and veneer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grangur Posted March 2, 2014 Author Share Posted March 2, 2014 Thanls guys. The 2nd side went better than the first. Its all smooth and sanded down to size. When I was buying the veneers I looked at maple but the idea I went for in the end was to try to get the headstock to look reflect the body. I'll see how it goes. If it fails miserably I'll try again with maple. What put me off the maple was that the neck is aged maple. The veneer was much more pale. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icastle Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 I'd imagine that a light wood dye diluted down even further with a suitable thinner (white spirit perhaps?) could be used to darken the veneer if needed - obviously trying it on a piece of scrap before committing yourself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charic Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 Put googly eyes on the old holes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icastle Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 [quote name='charic' timestamp='1393836838' post='2384721'] Put googly eyes on the old holes [/quote] LMAO That's another fine keyboard you owe me Stanley. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubsonicSimpleton Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 [quote name='Grangur' timestamp='1393798307' post='2384522'] Thanls guys. The 2nd side went better than the first. Its all smooth and sanded down to size. When I was buying the veneers I looked at maple but the idea I went for in the end was to try to get the headstock to look reflect the body. I'll see how it goes. If it fails miserably I'll try again with maple. What put me off the maple was that the neck is aged maple. The veneer was much more pale. [/quote] Bog standard polyurethane varnish comes in a few shades, not too difficult to get a similar colour to your neck on a pale veneer using "antique pine" shade - well worked for me anyway. Careful brush application and care flatting down afterwards gives nice results if you are patient. Real easy to colour test on a bit of ramin or pine before committing on the headstock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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