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Strings, I can't believe the difference!


Pinball
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I have a very transparent kit at the moment. A GB Steamer amp, GB 212 cab and 3 (don't ask) identical LTD/ESP surveyors loaded with EMG's.
That has given me the chance to compare different strings.
I have a set of flats on one, heavy status round-wounds on another and rotosound medium round-wounds on the 3rd and can't believe the difference between them. Its like having 3 different kits.

Next time I go to change basses someone stop me and tell me to try changing strings instead!.

I'm not sure which will work best in a band context yet but prefer the sound of the flats playing solo. This is going to keep me amused all over the Christmas holidays :)

Edited by Pinball
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Interesting topic; I've been thinking about this recently too. (This could save me the cost of a new bass!)

I've got a Squier P-bass that I rebuilt with Hipshot bridge, SD Quarter pounders and good pots etc. It's fitted with Rotosound RS66 45-105 round wounds. To my ears it sounds too light-weight. I'm looking for a darker growl bass tone. I've been thinking of trying out some different strings any recommendations?

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[quote name='Grangur' timestamp='1387552335' post='2313306']
Interesting topic; I've been thinking about this recently too. (This could save me the cost of a new bass!)

I've got a Squier P-bass that I rebuilt with Hipshot bridge, SD Quarter pounders and good pots etc. It's fitted with Rotosound RS66 45-105 round wounds. To my ears it sounds too light-weight. I'm looking for a darker growl bass tone. I've been thinking of trying out some different strings any recommendations?
[/quote]

As a long-time Roto user, I switched from their steels to nickels earlier this year - a much warmer thicker tone instantly.

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An example of the differences of round wound V flats here but there are also big differences between the different round wound. Apologies if all this seems obvious-I know the difference playing style and strings make but I never really had the chance to play them back to back before.

Anyway an example here. [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KqLZTT3TiqA[/media]

Edited by Pinball
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I think the huge difference in tone between flats and roundwounds is about the best [s]excuse[/s] reason to own several basses... so I've got flats on two (one of them a fretless) and rounds on the other three (one of them a 5 stringer and another designated as a 'chuck in the back of the car bass') :D

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The first thing to do when picking up a new bass is to see if it could be moulded to your own preference.
Too many basses have a poor to average set-up in the shop, and the strings aren't in any special condition.
This is understandable in most shops as set-up is time consuming and wear and tear on strings going through a good few hands
over a period of time will dull them.
Plus they may also be the string that the bass has travelled/been packed with, and it is not surprising that you
have to use a bit of experience to know where you can get that bass to..in terms of playabilty.

Last bass, I bought from the shop... I asked them if I could work on the neck and they agreed.
They even offered to do that themselves...as they were capable enough, so I could see what action was available/possible.
A new set of MY strings and it was very good for me.

They knew I was seriously interested in the bass... and I told them I would have it IF things like action and relief were to my liking.
They indulged me and I bought it.

Very good sale service from GAK.

You need to be able to judge what is possible, so a new set of strings is the start, IMO.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I compared my Lull P5 with Happy Jack's and while they both sounded great, when played together his sounded better. Enough to make me track down why.

I finally found the difference; I was using my usual DR Lo-Riders and he was using flats. I put Lakland flats on (my first set since 1971) and I was surprised at how much better the bass sounded.

I've still got DR's on the Lakland but I might just try flats next time.

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