ikay

[quote]Checked Amp and Leads. For sure the bass[/quote] The way a jazz is wired, if one of the pups or vol pots fails you'll still get sound from the other. So the most likely culprit is the jack socket itself or the wiring from the jack back to the pups. Use a multimeter to check wiring continuity of all hot (signal) and cold (earth) connections if you have one

May sound stupid (probably is) but have you checked your lead..? Unlikely for both pickups or vol pots to fail at exactly the same time so I'd double check continuity of the wiring working back from the jack socket.

How about these - [url="http://www.minilabels.co.uk/e_index2.htm?offg=-60&p=none&s=n5&product=colourcodestickers"]http://www.minilabels.co.uk/e_index2.htm?o...ourcodestickers[/url]

[quote name='son of frog' post='1202709' date='Apr 17 2011, 04:26 PM']Ahh, You see, i think my combo is actually connected to the 10" speaker via this external speaker output, I will enclose a picture to show what i mean.[/quote] Hmm, yes you're right. No connection for an additional extension speaker so looks like the head won't be suitable for a 4 ohm cab.

This review of the BLX-80 suggests it outputs 80 watts into a 4 ohm minimum load - [url="http://www.bgra.net/2004/review.php?id=137&type=combo"]http://www.bgra.net/2004/review.php?id=137&type=combo[/url] I'm not familiar with the back panel of this combo. If the '8 ohm' speaker output on the back is for an extension cab rather than the internal 10" speaker then the amp will be able to handle a 4 ohm min load. I looked for the BLX-80 manual online but couldn't find one.

Here's a link to a useful online import duty calculator - [url="http://www.dutycalculator.com/new-import-duty-and-tax-calculation/"]http://www.dutycalculator.com/new-import-d...ax-calculation/[/url] You will pay 20% VAT on the full value of the goods plus shipping costs. If the total value is over £135 you will also pay an additional 3.7% duty (if value is under £135 you just pay the VAT). Depending on how it's shipped, you will most likely also be charged a handling fee for processing the imported item. This is usually a flat fee (around £8 or so). A good rule of thumb is to add 25% to the totl cost of goods plus shipping. Not many items slip through without being charged these days. I've imported things such as pickups and sets of tuners and all have been hit with import charges. In the end it usually still works out a bit cheaper, but not by much.

[quote name='Stinkfoot' post='1199743' date='Apr 14 2011, 06:44 PM']what can cause a drop in volume on one individual string,its happening on my A string,I have tried adjusting for saddle hight with pick up hight & even thought I would try the frequency range on my EQ channel,The strings are all from the same set although they are old..but why a loss of volume over one string...?[/quote] I'd suggest next thing you need to do is eliminate the string itself as the cause of the problem. Get a new set of strings on and see if that sorts it out

Showing as in stock here: [url="http://www.langtoninfo.co.uk/showitem.aspx?isbn=0717669447380"]http://www.langtoninfo.co.uk/showitem.aspx...n=0717669447380[/url] and possibly also here [url="http://www.giggear.co.uk/p/Fender-Original-P-Bass-Pickup/"]http://www.giggear.co.uk/p/Fender-Original-P-Bass-Pickup/[/url]

[quote name='The Bass Doc' post='1171727' date='Mar 22 2011, 08:26 AM']One of the benefits of this forum is that the combined knowledge of fellow Basschatters should keep any risk to a minimum, if not eliminate it altogether.[/quote] The book 'Fender Bass - an illustrated history' is a useful reference - [url="http://www.amazon.co.uk/Fender-Bass-Illustrated-History/dp/0634026402"]http://www.amazon.co.uk/Fender-Bass-Illust...y/dp/0634026402[/url] ...as is the information on this vintage guitar site - [url="http://home.provide.net/~cfh/fender.html"]http://home.provide.net/~cfh/fender.html[/url] Any questions or concerns about a specific fender bass just ask this forum and someone will most likely be able to help

No, the Audere is designed for use with passive pickups only. This is from their website: "To use our Z-Mode technology, you must have PASSIVE PICKUPS, meaning that the pickup does NOT have a semiconductor component in it. The vast majority of basses have passive pickups. EMGs are the most common active pickups. If you are uncertain about your pickups, google them (fastest), check with the manufacturer, or send Sales an email."

[quote]Yamaha BBs, Are they as good as yamaha make them out to be?[/quote] In a word - yes. And yes, this little beauty of mine ('84 BB2000) plays as well as it looks! Stunning basses [attachment=74622:BB2000_1.jpg][attachment=74623:BB2000_8.jpg][attachment=74624:BB2000_3.jpg] [attachment=74625:BB2000_2.jpg]

[quote name='Wil' post='1157886' date='Mar 11 2011, 11:59 AM']I dont think slackening the strings is a good idea personally, as you're trying to get the neck to settle where you want it while it's under string tension.[/quote] Heheh, six of one and half a dozen of t'other Slackening the strings has the same effect as a little backward nudge but does it without applying any force which I prefer. In the end I guess it's down to what you feel more comfortable doing.

Hi Musicman20, SR5s are generally very easy and forgiving to set up. The truss rod wheel is a stroke of genius. Half a turn is quite a lot and should have made a noticeable difference. I find it helps to slacken off the strings when tightening the truss rod, let it rest for a few minutes and then bring it back up to tune and check where you're at. If you didn't do this then you might try loosening the strings now for a few minutes to let the neck find its new position. When you're happy with the relief have a play with the saddles. You can't do any harm and can always set them back to where they were (keep count of how many turns you lower them). I'd wind them down until you just start getting a bit of buzz and then bring them back up half a turn or a turn. Good luck, Ian

[quote name='dougie' post='1147350' date='Mar 2 2011, 05:01 PM']Im just curious guys but is it really important its the correct Fender screw?,ive worked with nuts and bolts all my days and yet to see a screw of any length,pitch,head or finish that cant be found.[/quote] Doesn't have to be Fender as long as it's the right spec IMO. The long G intonation screws aren't available from Fender anyway and I sourced mine from an aerospace parts supplier.

Best advice is on bottom 3 posts of this thread - [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=73417"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=73417[/url]

[quote name='The Burpster' post='1136901' date='Feb 22 2011, 11:32 AM']Alex, the BEST foam mutes are these.[/quote] Burpster, I've often wondered about these. Do have any soundclips showing the two mute settings? Can you fine tune them for each string and did you drill holes to mount? I'm thinking of adding mutes to my fretless to dial in a thumpier tone when needed.

see this from stingraypete re replacement string mutes - [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=101460"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=101460[/url]

Paul, I've recently hunted down some longer (1.75") intonation screws for the G and D saddles on my 72 jazz which I eventually got from LAS Aerospace (www.lasaero.com) who were very helpful. The spec of the standard intonation screw for a 70s bridge is [b]6-32 UNC x 1.5" pan head phillips [/b](6-32 UNC indicates the shaft diameter and thread count). If you email LAS Aero I'm sure they'll be able to dig some up for you. The screws only cost 10p each but their minimum order is £5. If the longer 1.75" screws will work for you then PM me your address and I'll drop a set in the post to you. Ian