ikay

Hmm, it's a good question. I've always assumed nickel plating for all hardware on pre CBS Fenders and into the early 70s, but having thumbed through 'The Fender Bass' book I can't see any mention of this or when they introduced chrome ...

I have undersaddle transducers in two of my basses (Rob Allen/Fishman, Rick Turner/Timberline). Both of these have acoustic style wooden bridges with a captured saddle. There are loads of variations on this theme out there but in most cases USTs are installed in an acoustic type bridge/saddle. I can't see how you'd install a UST under a regular electric bass bridge as the saddle(s) need to rest directly against the transducer to get the optimum sound transfer and dynamics. The other option is to use individual piezo saddles such as the Ghost saddles from Graphtech. You can buy the saddles separately or already installed in a Hipshot bridge. Only in a single piece bridge though as far as I'm aware - [url="http://www.graphtech.com/products.html?SubCategoryID=78"]http://www.graphtech.com/products.html?SubCategoryID=78[/url]. I have this setup in my ACG Recurve. Both types deliver the characteristic piezo sound - extended frequency range, more three dimensional 'acoustic' sound etc. Both are also very different in terms of installing and setting up. The Hipshot/Ghost option is a simple drop in replacement for an existing bridge with an extra channel routed under the bridge for the piezo cables. The UST option is much more technical and requires a very precisely routed bridge piece with carefully designed geometry of the string anchor to provide the optimum break angle for each string over the saddle in order to get even volume and tone. Both types need a piezo preamp of some sort to allow the high impedance piezo output to be suitable for input to an onboard eq or bass amp input. Getting a good piezo sound can involve a lot of fiddling around and fine tuning but the results are definitely worth it. Opens up a whole new spectrum of bass sounds and playing styles. Go for it and good luck!

Here's the technical stuff if your interested - [url="http://www.liutaiomottola.com/formulae/tension.htm"]http://www.liutaiomottola.com/formulae/tension.htm[/url]

You need one of these - [url="http://www.wdmusic.co.uk/product/1%7C4%22_Jack_Socket_WDE12"]http://www.wdmusic.co.uk/product/1%7C4%22_Jack_Socket_WDE12[/url] Easy job to do but does require soldering

The Grand website says' the 1 Nov gig has now been rescheduled for 4 April 2012

This might be worth a read - [url="http://www.kingbass.com/pickups.html"]http://www.kingbass.com/pickups.html[/url]

[quote name='Delberthot' timestamp='1316637549' post='1380879'] The headstock looks slightly smaller than normal so I would say that it came off a [url="http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f8/pics-fender-cowpoke-special-312480/"]cowpoke[/url] [/quote] +1 [url="http://www.bovinehost.com/currentbasses/cowpokeP.html"]http://www.bovinehost.com/currentbasses/cowpokeP.html[/url]

The new site looks good but it's noticeably slower moving around and loading pages than the old one ... (on my pc at any rate)

If you'd like a comparison with OBBMs fretted headless I have a fretless Recurve 5 (#67 on the ACG gallery) that you're welcome to come and try. I'm between Guildford and Horsham. Away on Holiday now until 6 Sep but anytime after that.

[quote name='davebass66' post='1343193' date='Aug 17 2011, 02:47 PM']It also gets much worse when you touch the pickup.[/quote] This suggests that it's an earth problem of some kind. Does the hum change when you touch the strings or only when you touch the pups? Try stepping through some of the diagnostics on this link which might help to isolate the cause [url="http://www.guitarnuts.com/technical/electrical/trouble/genericnoise.php"]http://www.guitarnuts.com/technical/electr...enericnoise.php[/url]

How about using stickers instead of paint? [url="http://www.inlaysticker.com/"]http://www.inlaysticker.com/[/url]

DR Sunbeams have a softer feel than most. I have them on the 72 Jazz in my avatar, great strings IMO

The Artec preamp will have different sound shaping characteristics (eq centre points, roll-off slopes etc) to the Fender Lyte preamp and these will be superimposed on the sound if you swap this pre into your Lyte. Doing this is unlikely to make the Lyte sound any better and, being a cheap and cheerful pre, it may be a step backward. All preamps sound different and the only way to find out which ones work for you is to try a few. Easier said than done I know and can be an expensive experiment! Ask around on BC and see if there's anyone in your area who has a decent aftermarket preamp such as John East or Audere (or anything that you're interested in) that you can go and try to get a feel for what they sound like.

You've pretty much said it- one is split shaft the other is solid shaft. Good range of knobs for both here - [url="http://www.axesrus.com/axenob.htm#Knobs"]http://www.axesrus.com/axenob.htm#Knobs[/url]

Steve's Amps in Godalming (www.stevesamps.co.uk) and Joe White in Ash/Farnborough (www.jwhite-guitarworkshops.co.uk) seem to be well regarded. Check out the recommended luthiers thread here - www.basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=26654

[quote name='bubinga5' post='1322673' date='Aug 1 2011, 12:22 AM']Anyone got any idea how much the original Yamaha TRB5 MK1's were when new...expensive? What do you think of these basses..[/quote] They were around £750-800. For reasons that escape me they don't hold their value well and you can pick them up for around £400 or so. Which is a completely stupid price for such an excellent bass. The Mk 1 is definitely the one to have. Build quality is outstanding and it just sounds and feels 'right'. The Mk 2s were clunky in comparison (at least the ones I've tried have been). I've had my Mk 1 for over 10 years and still use it regularly. Great bass, get one if you can.

Clarky I seem to remember you flagged another one of these on ebay in May. IIRC that went for about £1,050. Pretty fair price considering that used ones in the US seem to go for around the $1,600-1,800 mark. It's difficult to get hold of a used one from across the pond for less than £1,400 after shipping and tax. Very rare beasts over here, I've been looking for a while and also talking to Rob A to find one in the UK to try. Definitely on my list of things to acquire at some point. When the ever so variable planets of cash and opportunity are eventually aligned. Be interesting to see what this one goes for. With the high starting price I guess all of the action will be in the last 10 minutes. May get no bids at all and turn up on BC (wishful thinking!)

[quote name='chris_b' post='1312486' date='Jul 22 2011, 10:53 AM']You could get a couple of strips of the acoustic foam and just place it under your cab. That would cost about £10-£15.[/quote] You can get strips of Auralex platfoam from Studiospares - [url="http://www.studiospares.com/sound-insulation/auralex-platfoam-x1-piece/invt/461330/"]http://www.studiospares.com/sound-insulati...ce/invt/461330/[/url]

Rosetti do them - [url="http://www.rosetti.co.uk/product/gibson-pickup-cover-treble-black"]http://www.rosetti.co.uk/product/gibson-pi...er-treble-black[/url]

How about this - [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Dual-Gang-Potentiometer-1M-Logarithmic-RP289-/160593670405"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Dual-Gang-Potentiome...9-/160593670405[/url]

[quote name='davebass66' post='1309121' date='Jul 19 2011, 01:37 PM']Any other ideas?![/quote] Er no! Sounds like one for Audere. Be interested to know what they say ...

Sounds like it might be a phase problem - try switching round the hot/cold inputs for one of the pickups and see if that makes a difference

Sounds like the problem is with the underside of the saddle not making proper contact at one end. If it's just the B string that's isn't as loud as the others then try putting a small strip of adhesive copper shielding foil on the underside of the saddle at that end.