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Yes you're probably right. But I guess the likes of Rob Allen and Joe Veillette we're relatively unknown once. Expensive for sure and definitely not an impulse purchase (for me at any rate!). I'm just curious to know what the word on the street is. If any

Does anyone here have any experience of or views on Kristall basses, specifically the Room 5 model? [url="http://www.kristallbass.com/index.php?id=25&L=1"]http://www.kristallbass.com/index.php?id=25&L=1[/url] Haven't come across them before. Any input welcome... [attachment=92408:Kristall Room 5.jpg]

It should end up looking something like this ... [url="http://imageshack.us/g/171/63021869.jpg/"]http://imageshack.us/g/171/63021869.jpg/[/url]

Some custom wooden guitar knobs here, they might be able to supply what you need - [url="http://www.thgknobs.com/"]http://www.thgknobs.com/[/url]

Haha, oh well, I agree that acousticores definitely fall into the 'unusual' category, great sound though. Agree with TI flats, have those on my piezo ACG and I'm very happy with that combination

I had my Jazz plecked at Chandlers. Massive disappointment. Took it back and had it redone the good old fashioned way. Perfect

[quote name='BassBod' timestamp='1319213818' post='1411462'] Yes they are, and they sort of roll under your fingers...weird, not helped by the very thin diameters. [/quote] TI Acousticores work extremely well on basses that are designed to take them such as the Rick Turner Renaissance. The RT has a relatively high action and an acoustic style bridge with through body stringing and a steep break angle over the saddle which I think helps. The feel is firm but springy, very much like a classical guitar. Very playable and contribute to the RTs wide dynamic and tonal range. But I can see that they wouldn't work too well on a regular electric bass with a medium/low setup.

Hmm, it's a good question. I've always assumed nickel plating for all hardware on pre CBS Fenders and into the early 70s, but having thumbed through 'The Fender Bass' book I can't see any mention of this or when they introduced chrome ...

I have undersaddle transducers in two of my basses (Rob Allen/Fishman, Rick Turner/Timberline). Both of these have acoustic style wooden bridges with a captured saddle. There are loads of variations on this theme out there but in most cases USTs are installed in an acoustic type bridge/saddle. I can't see how you'd install a UST under a regular electric bass bridge as the saddle(s) need to rest directly against the transducer to get the optimum sound transfer and dynamics. The other option is to use individual piezo saddles such as the Ghost saddles from Graphtech. You can buy the saddles separately or already installed in a Hipshot bridge. Only in a single piece bridge though as far as I'm aware - [url="http://www.graphtech.com/products.html?SubCategoryID=78"]http://www.graphtech.com/products.html?SubCategoryID=78[/url]. I have this setup in my ACG Recurve. Both types deliver the characteristic piezo sound - extended frequency range, more three dimensional 'acoustic' sound etc. Both are also very different in terms of installing and setting up. The Hipshot/Ghost option is a simple drop in replacement for an existing bridge with an extra channel routed under the bridge for the piezo cables. The UST option is much more technical and requires a very precisely routed bridge piece with carefully designed geometry of the string anchor to provide the optimum break angle for each string over the saddle in order to get even volume and tone. Both types need a piezo preamp of some sort to allow the high impedance piezo output to be suitable for input to an onboard eq or bass amp input. Getting a good piezo sound can involve a lot of fiddling around and fine tuning but the results are definitely worth it. Opens up a whole new spectrum of bass sounds and playing styles. Go for it and good luck!

Here's the technical stuff if your interested - [url="http://www.liutaiomottola.com/formulae/tension.htm"]http://www.liutaiomottola.com/formulae/tension.htm[/url]

You need one of these - [url="http://www.wdmusic.co.uk/product/1%7C4%22_Jack_Socket_WDE12"]http://www.wdmusic.co.uk/product/1%7C4%22_Jack_Socket_WDE12[/url] Easy job to do but does require soldering

The Grand website says' the 1 Nov gig has now been rescheduled for 4 April 2012

This might be worth a read - [url="http://www.kingbass.com/pickups.html"]http://www.kingbass.com/pickups.html[/url]

[quote name='Delberthot' timestamp='1316637549' post='1380879'] The headstock looks slightly smaller than normal so I would say that it came off a [url="http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f8/pics-fender-cowpoke-special-312480/"]cowpoke[/url] [/quote] +1 [url="http://www.bovinehost.com/currentbasses/cowpokeP.html"]http://www.bovinehost.com/currentbasses/cowpokeP.html[/url]

The new site looks good but it's noticeably slower moving around and loading pages than the old one ... (on my pc at any rate)

If you'd like a comparison with OBBMs fretted headless I have a fretless Recurve 5 (#67 on the ACG gallery) that you're welcome to come and try. I'm between Guildford and Horsham. Away on Holiday now until 6 Sep but anytime after that.

[quote name='davebass66' post='1343193' date='Aug 17 2011, 02:47 PM']It also gets much worse when you touch the pickup.[/quote] This suggests that it's an earth problem of some kind. Does the hum change when you touch the strings or only when you touch the pups? Try stepping through some of the diagnostics on this link which might help to isolate the cause [url="http://www.guitarnuts.com/technical/electrical/trouble/genericnoise.php"]http://www.guitarnuts.com/technical/electr...enericnoise.php[/url]

How about using stickers instead of paint? [url="http://www.inlaysticker.com/"]http://www.inlaysticker.com/[/url]

DR Sunbeams have a softer feel than most. I have them on the 72 Jazz in my avatar, great strings IMO

The Artec preamp will have different sound shaping characteristics (eq centre points, roll-off slopes etc) to the Fender Lyte preamp and these will be superimposed on the sound if you swap this pre into your Lyte. Doing this is unlikely to make the Lyte sound any better and, being a cheap and cheerful pre, it may be a step backward. All preamps sound different and the only way to find out which ones work for you is to try a few. Easier said than done I know and can be an expensive experiment! Ask around on BC and see if there's anyone in your area who has a decent aftermarket preamp such as John East or Audere (or anything that you're interested in) that you can go and try to get a feel for what they sound like.

You've pretty much said it- one is split shaft the other is solid shaft. Good range of knobs for both here - [url="http://www.axesrus.com/axenob.htm#Knobs"]http://www.axesrus.com/axenob.htm#Knobs[/url]