ikay

[quote name='decify123' timestamp='1351623464' post='1853428'] Hello! I know this is a very old thread but is there any chance anyone could direct me to the Fender pdf listed in Ikay's comment above? Im a final year engineering student and research into alternative neck reinforcement is my final year project. Thanks. [/quote] PM'd

Mackie SRM450s? Good quality kit and built to last. Been gigging mine (older V1 models) for over 10 years and still going strong.

[quote name='fretmeister' timestamp='1351555846' post='1852696'] Buy the guitarist a working tuner. [/quote] +1 haha nothing like the guitarist tuning themselves to a randomly selected string to mess with your head on fretless

"Norm Stockton: When I’m slapping, my fingers have a tendency to get stuck under the strings if there’s too much room between the string and the top of the bass. I guess I have bony fingers! :^) So I’ve had all of my basses that I use for slapping fitted with a thin piece of wood (wenge) to reduce that distance." Basically similar to a regular ramp but not quite so close to the strings to allow a little more room for thumbing/popping. Concept is the same - to achieve a more even playing action. Here's a pic of a Nordstrand with a regular ramp (between pups) and a slap ramp (between pup and neck). The slap ramp is set slightly lower than the regular ramp. [attachment=122245:ramps.jpg] Here's a pic of a graduated slap ramp built into the end of the fretboard on a Status Kingbass [attachment=122244:Status Kingbass slap ramp.jpg]

Four bolt neck and no truss rod wheel which I reckon makes it pre 1990. A few more pics would help and serial number would confirm

[quote name='geoffbyrne' timestamp='1351013387' post='1846246'] Just replace the stock pups with DiMarzio Model J's wired internally in series - or put a mini switch on them & get parallel too - they sound great in both modes. [/quote] Here's a useful review of the Model Js which gives more detail on the coil configuration and series/parallel switching. http://basschat.co.uk/topic/165194-dimarzio-model-j-dp123/ Separate series/parallel switching for neck and bridge pups should give loads of tonal flexibility and looks like a great option to me. Tempted to try it myself.

How do you mean add a P to a J? If you want to keep both Jazz pups with standard spacing then adding a P pup will overlap with the J neck pup. If you move the P towards the bridge to fit between the Js then it won't sound like a P anymore. The Fender Stu Hamm Urge has two Js and a P but I don't think any of them are in standard positions. [attachment=121866:J + P bass.jpg]

[quote name='mart' timestamp='1350575997' post='1840795'] If it's the resonant frequency, then it'd be the same wherever you played that same note, right? [/quote] No, not necessarily. Different resonant frequencies occur in different places along the neck. A dead spot is where the frequency of the fretted note coincides with the antinode of the resonant frequency of the neck at that exact point (or very near). Fretting a note of the same frequency somewhere else on the neck (on a different string) may not result in a dead spot as the resonant frequency of the neck at that point may be different or the position of that fret may not be so close to the antinode. This article explains it much better than I can - [url="http://www.acoustics.org/press/137th/fleischer.html"]http://www.acoustics.../fleischer.html[/url]

[quote name='Torben Hedstrøm' timestamp='1350488529' post='1839599'] I could probably just raise the action and get rid of it, but I really like my action nice and low. [/quote] Would be worth trying this. If the dead spot does disappear when you raise the action then it's most likely just a slight imperfection with the flatness of the fingerboard (which is relatively easy luthier fix) rather than a dead spot due to structural resonance in the neck (which isn't!).

Excellent, good to hear it's sorted!

[quote name='Xtof' timestamp='1349732434' post='1829930'] ... and the MIDI and jack inserts... [url="http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/191/6jackmidi.jpg/"][/url] [/quote] I'd be interested to know how the MIDI function works, can you provide a bit more info on that: - does it have onboard audio-to-MIDI conversion with MIDI out that can plug directly into a MIDI synth module (eg Proteus 2000)? - or does it just generate separate signals for each string via a 13-pin output which is compatible with Roland guitar syths? - does it use the RMC piezo/Polydrive system or the Graphtec piezo/Hexaphonic system or something else? Thanks

This page from Graphtec lists the overall slot spacing (high string to low string) under each nut type - http://www.graphtech.com/products.html?SubCategoryID=58 It's shown as 'E to E' (6 string guitar default) but they really mean high to low for bass nuts. Measure the overall slot spacing on your Marcus and CIJ (centre of G nut slot to centre of E nut slot) and compare it with this page to see if there's one here that might be a closer match.

Some comments on this subject from talkbass here - http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f38/vintage-jazz-bass-stack-knob-vs-vvt-741038/#post10441608

http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f57/bridge-placement-250675/ The 5th post down (from Rodent) might be helpful

Bit of a rare beast ... - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rare-1990-ZETA-Prism-Bass-Powerbridge-Original-Case-/251162429345?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item3a7a7287a1

[quote name='EddyGlee' timestamp='1349539264' post='1827518'] but in all honesty I think it's a daft idea and a waste of money. also, modern tuners are simply better quality IMO too. [/quote] +1 don't do it!

[quote name='omikin' timestamp='1349528659' post='1827389'] Would the main parts of the tuners (the bits that need to go through the headstock) be the right size to fit? [/quote] Not sure. The Fender vintage reissue tuners require an 11/16" diameter hole. Your existing tuners are secured by a threaded collet, you can easily remove one of these to check the diameter of the hole.

The existing closed back tuners on your American Standard P bass have completely different mounting points to the vintage style tuners so you would need to drill extra holes

Not sure if this willl be of any help but here are a few comments on the subject from talkbass: ... there should be a detent washer under the lower knob so it doesnt spin on accident when you raise or lower the volume ... you have to leave a little bit of space in between the two knobs when you tighten them on, or they will catch on each-other when you turn them- causing either a really rough turning action or causing both knobs to turn when you are only trying to turn one. ... it is also easy with stacked knobs to tighten them on slightly crooked, which can result in one knob getting caught on the others while turning.

[quote name='Dingus' timestamp='1349362171' post='1825316'] I 'm pretty sure I remember playing one or two of these in the early nineties and that they were made in Taiwan [/quote] Yes I think you're right about the original series being made in Taiwan. My TRB5 is one of the first series of bolt on ones made in Japan (mid/late 90s). Sorry for any confusion!

The TRB series was introduced in 1989. Details of all the discontinued models can be found here: http://usa.yamaha.com/products/musical-instruments/guitars-basses/el-basses/trb/?mode=series#list=within&mode=paging&tab=product_lineup This includes the original series TRBs as well as some of the more recent models which have also been discontinued. The first series of 'made in Japan' 5-string TRBs was 34" scale, they changed to 35" scale with the series II. I've got a first series Japan TRB5 which is a great bass and IMO much better than the series II, The oriiginal TRBs may have been even better still. Personally I'm not that keen on the current crop of TRBs. The ones I've tried have felt a bit sterile but I'm sure there are some good ones out there.