Jack

That's kind of my point to be honest! How can Thomann do it but Hartke can't? Yes yes economies of scale and such but it's not like Larry is hand building amps in his garage these days either. I know I know, to be honest I bet the reality is somewhere in between what I think and what you think. I love good, high quality, cheap gear. I own a Harley Benton bass and a The Box (also a Thomann brand) pa cab, both of which are superb and punch well above their price tags. I also love and champion both Studiospares and Orchid here all the time, both cheaper brands. However I think you're asking a lot to get what's essentially a full stage rig for £200 brand new. By the sounds of it your volume requirements are low and as you've mentioned Thomann have an excellent returns policy. Go for it, just have reasonable expectations of what any £200 amp can deliver.

What makes you think that they aren't comparable? Just trying to help man.

A £200 amp, FRFR or traditional, will be lower tier performance. That puts you against this bass combo.

I know that @Newfoundfreedom post was tongue in cheek but fwiw I do the other way around. Stomp>Desk>K12.2 as if it were a normal monitor. Partly so that I can benefit from the desk processing but mainly because there's a snake drop right by my pedalboard on the frontline. Route of least resistance! The point of that either way works just fine.

Sadly nothing on the headphones, nor on the stereo right output. Never used it before, but I did check and nope, nothing. It was set to just control phones volume anyway. Been back to June with 3 different backups and nothing now. Thank you for the help all, but I'm actually beginning to wonder if it's hardware failiure...

Having an issue with my HX Stomp, mainly that there's no sound! Setup/wiring definitely works, not only have I been through everything but I get perfect sound with the unit turned off and when bypassed. Internal tone generators etc will light the output light but not actually create any sound. I have disable and reenabled all of the volumes. I have tried a factory reset. Really stuck here and I have a gig tomorrow, does anyone have any ideas?

You can and it will work brilliantly but it's hardly unique for that. Most DI boxes have a through output to keep your signal chain going. I'd personally try a speaker level DI between the amp and speaker (most combos have the speaker plugged in to the amp in some sort of easily detachable way even if they're one unit) and run that to the PA, especially if you have a digital mixer with some kind of speaker simulation. Nothing wrong with the Studiospares and a whole lot right with it but it's a clean preamp that's really meant for acoustic instruments, you might find it lacking for rock guitar tone. I guess it depends what sound they're going for.

Now less than £25!

I love it when you see something like an MTD or an FBass in the advert and you just know the eq points are going to be 40Hz and 8KHz. 😁

To sound like an amp? Sansamp Paradriver Clean? Fishman or maybe the MXR (love the 80, haven't tried the 81) Cheap? Studiospares 458190 Currently though I'm on my second Helix...

High pass filter at 35Hz, everything else is flat as I can use the channel eq (when I'm the soundman) or somebody else can when I'm not. It probably doesn't matter which cable you use, nearly every amp will just accept the unbalanced with no harm done. If it sounds funny then it's time to worry.

As someone who's been Windows free since 2006 I installed Ardour just because it's the default FOSS option and stuck with it ever since. Ardour 5 now supports Windows for the first time. Nothing to lose by trying it, it's completely free.

Completely agree, one of my favourite boards was based around a Paradriver V2. Those of you worried about the mid-suck on the BDDI, know that the V2 units have less of a scoop, and the Paradriver has less too. The Paradriver V2 is predictably the best all-round.

I'd wager that perception bias, confirmation bias, the OE effect, congruence bias, validity illusion, expectation bias, subjective validity and much more science was likely involved. But then I should really read the thread, that's a job for tomorrow. Obviously anyone is free to enjoy any piece of gear, I'm not the cable police. However, when a claim is made it should be backed up. In fairness to Steve I haven't seen any such claims in here and we can't debunk subjective claims like 'better' or 'more alive' anyway. But we can just stick a cable on a scope and see that it's no different from the next.

Ooooh does anyone have a link please? I can't wait to see the measurement data and listen to the sound clips.

"If you use the blend, amp sim and the distortion then you can't dial the unit flat with the eq controls." "You CAN dial the unit in flat, just not if you're using the blend, amp sim or the distortion."

G'day. My wireless unit has a fault that's slowly getting a little worse. The footswitch that controls the mute is not engaging more often than it works properly. Just needs a couple of goes to get it working right. I'm loathe to return this (although it is under warranty) as I'll end up in the 'fair wear and tear' debate despite the fact that it's been lockdown and my 14-months of ownership equates to about 7 stomps on the switch. It's a soft-touch switch if that helps. Is there anything I can try here such as contact cleaner or anything? If not, suggestions for pedal repair, ideally in the North East? Thanks all, Jack

Sansamp, oc2, big muff, deep impact? The first three seem kind of obvious given your criteria, had to think a bit about what to put last.

If it was actually a fight then the G&L would win hands down as it's so aggressive. You want the Yamaha.

The fact that 350+175=/=700. Having said that, I hadn't realised we were talking about 2.67R here rather than 2R so fair enough, it is probably about right. My bad!

Roland bass cube Ashdown MAG Can you do more like £120-£150? TC Electronic can be had second hand and that combo series are great.