warwickhunt

The actual signal levels are 'approx'. .015v - mic/inst 1.0v - line 12v - speaker So the level out of an amps own DI is line level (about 1 volt) whereas the voltage from the speaker out is 12v (ish). External DI boxes are generally used to boost from instrument level up to line level. I've never associated a DI with lowering/attenuating the level from speaker levels; obviously they must but I'd be interested to know if that is true of all DI boxes.

My head still doesn't get that you'd be able to go out of the DI back to a cab and be able to drive it at a volume to be useable (unless the signal is true bypass). Also the DI being active/48v driven has to be relevant... yes? The difference in signal strength between instrument/mic, line and speaker level is huge so does the active actually attenuate the higher level?

Oddly you'd normally just put the DI box in front of the amp (if no other output from the amp at instrument/line level), a lot less hassle.

Indeed but he's at speaker level rather than line or instrument/mic level and the line out from a DI isn't at a level to drive a speaker.

I 'think' he has severed the amp output to the cab and put jacks on each end of the cut/split, which he then plugs the amp out into a DI and then a parallel out from the DI to the cab... which is nonsense, so it can't be that! ...can it?

Looks fine to me, neck and fingerboard are as you'd expect. Check the serial number against the Fender database.

So not only is he scamming people but he's creating profiles/fake IDs to cover his tracks? I'd have thought that takes it beyond a doubt that these weren't 'mistakes' but are premeditated fraud.

You could have a £3000 asking price; doesn't mean it is worth that or that someone will pay that for it. When you see these selling for £1000+ you have that sweet spot of supply/demand matching up (with a buyer having plenty spare cash burning a hole).

Had the same bass (black sparkle) back in the day... yes I had the poodle haircut to match. Out of nostalgia I bought the same model out of a local FB group 2 years ago and it turned out to be 'the' same bass! Uncanny. Only downside was that the pup output was a bit weak.

Just as an aside... aren't Fender instruments all 'imperial' measurements?

Oddly enough I found the opposite! It was OK at home or in isolation but was sweet when I gigged it (pair of TC RS210... none neo speakers ). I do use the contour control a lot whereas WoT told me he doesn't use it at all. Volume - I do have the master a fair way round but I don't drive the input hard as I don't want overdrive. Oddly enough the other amps I presently own are a 1600w Blacksmith, 1000w Blackcat, 350w TC Staccato and I sold my 750w Thunderfunk when I bought this. I find the 120w HB can keep pace with a very loud drummer and louder guitarist (no PA support) and I've not needed to resort to using my other amps. At the end of the day tone is subjective but for someone wanting to scratch a valve itch the HB is a (relatively) light weight option. As a footnote; I once owned a Mesa Boogie 180 all valve amp and I 'hated it' (why buy an amp you hate? ...because you are young and Mesa Boogie is 'the' name/label to have), you could cut glass with it. The other point of note is that I trialled a Stoneham YI200 when I was deciding on this valve amp and it was awful. It farted out through its own matching 410/115 cab even at low volume.

True to some degree but there are many exceptions and the revalving every year is a thing of the past (and to a degree biasing). Do a search on the forum for Handbox WB100 as one example.

Often played a red Spector NS (PJ) bass about this time.

What bass? If it is a Warwick they are a brass alloy and should be that colour... except for the early ones... or some basses in different ranges... or if they've been refretted.

Like the review... LOATH that noise!

Hmmmm is it technically 'change' if you don't sell a former amp? I presently own 5 amps bought in that last 2 years... in my defence I have sold one this year (#6).

I'd use a different rehearsal room! I've been playing bass 40 years and I've had 1 amp die that was out of the blue (you often get clues that things aren't right). I started carrying a 'spare' DI or preamp pedal just in case and on that occasion I quickly went pre pedal into PA (bass into foldback). ANY bit of kit can go wrong btbh a power amp is less susceptible than a bass amp. Why not just buy a 2nd bass amp that can handle stereo 4 ohm or 2 ohm? You can then go pre pedal into 'new' amp and no need for your Markbass. As for overhang... stand the amp on its edge /side beside your cab (or even flat on the floor behind).

If your preamp is in a pedal the simplest/cheapest route is to buy a stereo power amp that can drive a pair of 4 ohm cabs... or am I missing something? You could also use your Markbass head as a preamp/slave and drive the external power amp.

I experimented with this 20+ years ago and as Bill says, different amps are configured in different ways. You can easily split the signal from your bass via a pedal and send to two diff amps/cabs. Added advantage that you can treat the two signals with effects etc and keep one signal pure.

Did I not read this earlier on today with loads of replies? Just wondering what didn't work out.

Don't confuse it with H&Kers later ranges, the Bassbase range is up there with the best... but it isn't class D, so not 'fashionable'! Vids on youtube and reviews on the web.

Cheers Luke. I'd certainly put the H&K Bassbase 600 up against the best of EBS... at 50% of the price (selling mine for £225 inc case - not breaking rules as it is for sale on the forum)!