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warwickhunt

⭐Supporting Member⭐
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Everything posted by warwickhunt

  1. Be interested to know how the neck bow panned out if it was a BCer.
  2. 'Slight bow in the neck' - could be absolutely normal relief and he doesn't realise, might need a truss rod tweak but worst case scenario he knows about stuff like this and he is being upfront and warning of a neck issue! You pays your money...
  3. Awful! Will post and watch in the NE but wouldn't expect this to travel too far from where it was stolen.
  4. Oooops just seen... it's 10w + 10w RMS... clever for a mono amp.
  5. Ask yourself if you really think a Chinese, budget made hi-fi amp with phono connectors is A) going to put out 1000w RMS and B) sound as good as your Crown.
  6. Wouldn't go to a gig without mine.
  7. Ouch 50% price increase.
  8. Yeah, you're not going to mistake that bass for a generic Fender! As others have said, I force myself to ALWAYS put gear back in the house after gigging (even if I am gigging Fri/Sat/Sun), I've heard way too many times of gear being stolen. It only needs a scroat to see you carrying a gigbag/case into your house late at night, to wonder if it is worth popping your car/van window out and seeing what's in the boot/back.
  9. I've used Sansamp into 1x10 RCF powered speaker (my own vocal monitor for gigs) for quiet(ish) rehearsals and the overall tone is great, the only limitation is the cabinet driver's ability to reproduce the bottom end. I'd think a 12 or 15" powered monitor/cab/wedge would be far better.
  10. I've got one of these and I'd not sell it that cheap!
  11. NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO! You can't go there on this thread. 😝
  12. Superb amps and a future 'classic'!
  13. Is there no way you can meet mid-way? If it is an expensive bass it makes absolute sense NOT to use a courier when you are only 4hrs away from each other (2hrs each?)!
  14. I've been playing/gigging live for 38 years and I've never had an amp or cab die on me. I do however take a DI box so I could go into PA as last resort.
  15. ...but it isn't any different! The actual output of a designated/dedicated bass amp is governed by the balance/set-up between input gain and output attenuator (often just labelled 'volume'). The output from a power amp is likewise governed by preamp gain settings feeding the power amp input and then the power amp output/volume control(s). You can get dedicated bass amps from 20w to 1000w+ and likewise power amps start at a couple hundred watts up to several thousand watts (regardless of whether you use peak/prog/cont/RMS) but they all have controls on the front and back end that allow you to feed the amount of power you want to put into your cab... and the user decides how much of that is required. Either way the Bugera amp has at least a couple of hundred 'real/everyday' watts (probably around 500w) but certainly not the 2000 watts it claims (if we use the commonly expected use of the term of power). They are a bit naughty (IMHO) for claiming 2000w but it's something we've come to expect. I for one wouldn't think at £200 you are going to get that figure but I'm fairly well informed and newbies might be fooled.
  16. Really... What do you struggle with? You simply don't whack the gain/volume/output on full (saying that I always ran my power amp on full and controlled the input gain for a clean signal), I know loads of people who run big power amps into cabs of a couple hundred watts... it is simple and safe. As for why buy a higher powered amp than you need; headroom, future-proofing, etc etc. I'd ask why buy a smaller amp than you 'might' need in the future?
  17. How would it defeat the point? You have an accelerator on your car... you decide how far to push it down. I also don't need to know how much 'power' I'm putting into a cab, it is irrelevant. I turn up the volume, it complains, I turn it down... I've ran a 200 watt cab with a 2000 watt power amp and never once had a problem; because I used the gain/volume controls. Not trying to be awkward but folks are seriously wrapped up in the numbers and seem to forget that the obvious deciding factor in all of this is 'human' and you are in control. Just to throw this in the mix; my present set-up is a 750 watt amp which I use with a 2x10 cab (or two) and have done for some years, I recently trialled a 100 watt amp with the same cab(s) and I managed to continue gigging without killing any piece of equipment or ANY detriment in tone that the audience heard (no trickery with PA back-up).
  18. You can... you simply turn down the output/volume!
  19. LOL of course. Well if it wants to come home I have space... in fact I can find space for them both.
  20. What a coincidence, I was just saying to another BCer the other day that I remember seeing an identical bass back in the late 80's early 90's in Newcastle... I don't suppose this came from the NE?
  21. His tone, tuning, playing style etc. didn't phase/bother me (each to his own) but it battered my head in when he named the fret numbers... and my ears just didn't match the tones with what (barely) came out of the speakers.
  22. I need to sort out my 5 / 7 / 4 frets before I do anything.
  23. So this is where I've been going wrong all these years... my frets aren't where they should be.
  24. I'll make comparisons with similar period Stage I + II basses as changes in country of manufacture of late and use of alternative sustainable woods, will vary slightly but remains effectively true. Stage I - 5 piece thru neck (maple/wenge alternate) with 2 solid maple wings (no sandwich fillers, no other joints), PJ pups and wenge fingerboard. Stage II - 7 piece thru neck (wenge) with a matching centre cap to hide the neck thru, bubinga wings, JJ pups and wenge fingerboard. Streamer 1990 Ltd Ed - 3 piece thru neck (all maple) with body wings of birds eye maple sandwiched with a dark wood (for the life of me I can't be sure what this is but as they used a lot of wenge I'd guess at that but have a niggling doubt it is a softer more manageable wood) so that each 'wing' is made of a front and back side with sandwich and the wings also have this sandwich attaching to centre section, Soapbar pups and ebony fingerboard. I think it is the use of the denser body woods, all maple neck and bart SB pups (possibly ebony fingerboard) that give this model a very distinct voice.
  25. 3 yr warranty as standard with Thomann (@ no extra cost) + 30 day return... for a couple quid less than G4M and available in a week rather than 3 mths!
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