warwickhunt

I'm depping for a band in 3 weeks time and they do [b]5[/b] Lizzy tracks... it is fun playing them!

[quote name='Al Heeley' post='405952' date='Feb 11 2009, 07:50 AM']Uh-oh. That's a problem. Looks like someone didn't have the proper size allen key, or the rod was sticking a bit. Somehow a slot might need cutting in it, then you can get a big screwdriver in there and turn it.[/quote] I think you could be right and the problem [u]could[/u] have been as a result of someone not being aware that 'some' early Warwick truss rods turn the opposite way to normal (i.e. righty/tighty... lefty/loosty is NOT how some early ones work).

[quote name='stevefletch59' post='406330' date='Feb 11 2009, 02:28 PM']Hi Guys and Gals I was wondering if anyone has done an A/B comparison. Apart from the cosmetic differences and the Jazz Taper neck on the Dunn, the specs look the same. Is there any difference in tone? I have played a skyline DJ 4, which I quite liked but I think I'm more of a P bass type of man. I haven't managed to get my hands on either a Glaub or a Dunn yet. Cheers Steve[/quote] It'd also be interesting to hear from anyone who has A/Bed these basses (especially if they both had identical new strings on) as all things considered (ie same woods, pup placement, electrics etc.) then that would indicate that either the individual samples of wood density make a massive contribution to tone or that neck mass can affect tone in a similar way. Actually reading back through what I have written, you'd need to A/B a couple of Glaubs and a couple of DDs to establish if the difference was in any inconsistencies between identical basses in a particular range as well as identifying differences between the two ranges... does that make sense?

[quote name='deksawyer' post='405895' date='Feb 10 2009, 11:47 PM']We need a bigger picture!! D.[/quote] Just got this from the guy and I have to say looking at the close up myself, that looks like someone has been too enthusiastic with a 'normal' hex tool in the past!

I've recently sold an 87 Warwick JD Thumb bass and the new owner has decided to tweak the truss rod (personal preference not for any major issue). I never needed to adjust the rod whilst I owned it so I'd never investigated the truss rod end but it appears that there is a problem getting the correct tool for the job! A 'normal' hex truss rod tool isn't fitting or having any affect. The new owner has sent me a pic of the end of the truss rod to see if I can help but I'm a bit stumped. Question - is there a different tool for adjusting truss rods (other than a hex/allen key) or has anyone any similar experiences?

[quote name='P-T-P' post='405387' date='Feb 10 2009, 02:43 PM']Shame it's spoiled by having Bartolini's instead of Aero's. Not that there's anything generally wrong with Bartolini's, but the Aero's were what made the DJ IMHO. Beautiful bass otherwise and [i][b]a bargain at £500[/b][/i].[/quote] A bargain at £500 'STARTING BID'... you'll get it for that if no-one else bids!

I've used GHS Boomers in the recent past and they are good strings but if you're importing from the States then I'd suggest trying DR Sunbeams. They are approx £2 more (inc shipping) than you are paying for the GHS Boomers, worth considering!

Peter just bought some strings from me (sorry no Warwick attached), payment and all things associated were a pleasure as before and always.

Not mine nor nowt to do with me but these are a decent amp and at this kind of price should be a BIN bargain for someone! [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SWR-SM-400-Valve-Pre-Bass-Amp-400W_W0QQitemZ250369399480QQihZ015QQcategoryZ58719QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SWR-SM-400-Valve-Pre...1QQcmdZViewItem[/url]

[quote name='Musky' post='400391' date='Feb 4 2009, 08:35 PM']It's all rather moot anyway - the issue came up over the B150's use of a valve in the pre-amp. It's not a valve amp so it's 'SS watts' that'll be heard. [/quote] Valid point, I was simply responding to the statement that watt A is louder than watt B. Just as Alex would dive in (rightly so) and nip in the bud any misconception that certain speakers can defy the laws of physics, I think 'facts' need to be just that, otherwise we just perpetrate the same myths time and again. I've known SS amps of certain wattages 'appear' louder than other SS amps either by dint of the manufacturer (cough... TE) manipulating the gains to make them seem to have masses of volume at low settings and others (cough... GK) with things like boost stages and though I can't 'prove' it, some manufactures appear to just make figures up.

[quote name='alexclaber' post='400344' date='Feb 4 2009, 07:45 PM']A valve watt is no more powerful than a solidstate watt but it IS louder! No more dBs SPL will result but it'll peak higher on a VU meter (though not on a peak level meter) and it'll sound louder to our ears. Alex[/quote] Surely that is a contradiction Alex? You of all people surely accept that the measurement of a watt is a scientific equation; Hence a valve watt can be no different to a tranny watt... yes? We have both stated that it may appear louder due to the characteristics of valve distortion etc but please let's not blur the issue of valve watts and SS watts.

[quote name='josh3184' post='400243' date='Feb 4 2009, 05:58 PM']forgot to say, watt for watt, tube/valve amps are considered louder than solid state if I recall correctly- anyone wanna back me up on that? Memory is getting hazy with my old age [/quote] A watt is a watt... a valve watt is NOT louder than a tranny watt. However due to the characteristics of the tone of valves (i.e. distortion) it can 'appear' louder/fuller, though it is not in fact any louder.

[quote name='Lew-Bass' post='399925' date='Feb 4 2009, 01:13 PM']I don't mind it mate, aslong as the condition is very very good. That Hartke looks good [u]but I'd need cabs to go with it right[/u]?[/quote] Ah! You said 'amp' not amp and cabs/combo. You will get something in combo form for your budget but it will need to be used to get anything near powerful enough for your money.

A no-brainer really; for £180 you can get a 500watt Hartke amp that'll cover most gigs you're likely to encounter regardless of size. Whether the tone floats your boat is another matter but '£ for watt' it is about the best you can expect! <edit> Look here... the £180 price I quoted was an on-line price I found at the time this thread was active. [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=26831&hl=hartke+lh500"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=...hl=hartke+lh500[/url]

[quote name='MacDaddy' post='399597' date='Feb 4 2009, 12:03 AM'][/quote] I know... doesn't the stupid s*d know you should never mix driver sizes and as for horizontal dispersion!

[quote name='josh3184' post='399507' date='Feb 3 2009, 10:34 PM']sorry man, glad you managed to sell it in the end- you did it quicker than I managed![/quote] Isn't this still listed on ebay till the 9th? Or am I confused by all of the threads!

[quote name='benwhiteuk' post='398154' date='Feb 2 2009, 06:05 PM']Looks interesting. I don't have a clule about Fenders but I'm keeping an eye on this thread cos it'll be interesting to find out what this is. What are the reasons that it could not be the JV00001?[/quote] If it is #1 of the whole JV series it would be a very collectable (expensive) instrument. However... If it's getting gigged in a PF trib band in old blighty I'd love to hear the story of how it got to where it is. FWIW I reckon it's a fake. It looks FAR too clean to be that instrument; the tuners look modern and shiny, the headstock just looks like it has a lack of the patina/colour that the genuine old JV's have (regardless of whether it has been in a sealed box under the bed) dare I say the headstock looks anemic, though I accept that lighting can play tricks. Lastly; I may be a Geordie but even I wouldn't clag a NUFC sticker on the headstock of the oldest/first JV instrument produced... FAKE!