Al Heeley

most single-unit stompbox pedals are designed to be used in front of the pre-amp, but there's no hard and fast rule for this. Processors and rack-mount units are most often used between preamp and power amp in the fx loop.

theme to Skippy the Kangaroo. It's a corker. Crocodile Dundee theme Anything featuring a guest digeridoo artist

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cool, put me down for a white one - just that wood floor pattern and the fanned frets does weird things to my eyes

cool, put me down for a white one - just that wood floor pattern and the fanned frets does weird things to my eyes

Just bought a Boss Looper pedal off the Bunny, excellent comms, prompt postage and first rate condition - many thanks!

+1 for humerous spoofs

If you've not used a router before to do this, then stick to chisel!

Make a good clean template first then use that as the guide, stuck to the top of the bass body with good double sided tape. Use a router bit with a guide bearing collar, then you will get a nice clean rout.

Here you go, get a box, a 4pdt switch and 6 mono jack plugs. A = clean bass to amp, kbd thru fx to DI, B = bass thru fx to amp, kbd clean to DI

I'm pretty sure this would do it, if you wire up a 4pdt switch as follows, the send to fx and return would be common to both keyboard and bass sides of the switch, when fx is not on in bass side the signal goes clean to amp, and signal diverts to fx for keys, when u press the switch the bass signal goes to fx then back to amp, the kyb goes clean to DI

this would allow either the bass or the keyboard to feed into the pedals then back to respective outputs. The fx loop would be shared but only by one active instrument + output at any one time

pretty sure u could wire it with a 4pdt switch which in effect works as per 2 switches working in synchrony together. This would take the 2 inputs and route one of them thru the pedalboard and back, but input a would always end up going to output A and input b would always end up going to output B.

so do i understand correctly? You want to be able to switch the pedals between being in between the bass + amp and being in between the keyboard + DI ?

For about £15 and 30 mins soldering you can make a simple effective A/B pedal that will do the job. I can knock one together for you if you want. You can use them either way: one input to choice of 2 outputs, or choice of 2 inputs to one output.

From a redundant piece of kitchen worktop I made a board to fit the base of my Hartke cabs. Stick a shallow lip round it then fix 4 sturdy castors to the corners (screwfix.com - better choice and price than B&Q) Since its easily detachable I can pile on the cabs and push it to the premises, putting it back in the car when unloaded, which saves drilling into the base of the cabinets. the kids can toboggan down the road on it when I'm not using it, which is an added bonus. Trouoble is, my driveway is on a slight slope and when I'm unloading the cabs from the boot of the car the tray keeps rolling back underneath the car, which is a darned nuisance. Maybe a couple of locking castors would have been a better plan. All in all though a neat and cost-effective way to save my back and entertain the children

whooo, theres a few quids worth of kindling there!

Have to disagree Wil, but there's more than one way to skin a cat of course. Saddle height should be adjusted to match curvature of the neck radius, of course there must be correct height between 17th or 20th fret and bottom of strings, then the truss rod should be adjusted to tweak a lower (or higher) action - within the boundaries of common sense - excess fret buzz being below the minimum. That's how I do my setups and they are pretty damn slick

Neck relief is the correct way to go, as long as your neck is true. A little bit more tension in the truss rod. With a well set-up bass you should not need to adjust saddles for string height above the frets, it should be done via small tweaks to the truss rod. If your neck has pretty low action already then you will have to rout out a few mm to sit the bridge lower. If you say the bridge feels too far forward then is it the right bridge for the bass? Is it a wrong spec replacement?

I bought a replacement rick bridge + saddles a few years ago for a build, there were shallow slots cut in the saddles. If the strings are not being held sufficiently and you cannot change the string angle, then I'd cut em deeper.