PaulThePlug

Started a few months back... Got the Dummies and the Complete Bass Method from eBay, world of books etc... Get both for the price of one new... Dummies had a fair bit of nonsense, but an easy read, Complete Bass Method missing some tab early on but their are no short cuts... Spiral Bound Complete Bass Book stays flat when open! - worth a couple of quid extra on its own...

@ NickA... That is almost everything... Real Nice...

Maple or Rosewood fret board? I do wish P bass were rear routed / control cavity... the body shape just says function would look so simple and elegant with just the split coil and 2 knobs.. maybe an edge jack or stratocaster jack plate... get to see more wood... and a neck with no fingerborad inlays... wish i had the skills to make one, or the money to have one made...

likes wood... hence the cruiser strip... not a fan of the tourtoise...

How do Jimmy... Got my first bass 3 months or so ago at the start of lockdown - played a bit of guitar many years ago. Guitar is now in the safeish hands of my eldest at 15... a MASSIVE MCR Fan... missed it all first time round... Managed to get tickets to the now postponed Milton Keynes Gig... cost an arm and a leg and had to get tickets with coach as that was all thst was left, about £150 a pop- and due to age i have to go too! Any Bass MCR stuff you have worked out or found would be most welcome - and give their hand a streatch!

from what i know and have seen, on a Jazz the front plate doesnt cover any routing holes.. so is merely functional and cosmetic.. looks great in clear... and nice simple shape for the control cavity... which could be made more simple if omiting the bigger guard, albeit from new with no screw holes.... wish a P was like this, or routed, control cavity from the rear...

Phil Manzanera Nowomova / wasted lands https://www.allmusic.com/album/nowomova-wasted-lands-mw0000244326 Ambient Chillin Film Music... Lovely everything.... Andy Grossart - Bass Oh, And i likes a bit of Budgie...

Like a cheap P! Then again i only have my Ibby GSR200 to compare it with, and a few months... Action is a little high, with a bit of buzz on the higher frets. I'll take a look at the truss after a few says of sitting after going back together. neck n body is still a little sticky with the danish, but will hopefully dry... wanted it back together. Realistically could of / should of left the red, but i think there is something about a bass (more than a guitar) that make em look nice in natural, simplicity... and something to do... Cheap and not preciouse... Also shows the time involved and what a pro does to do things properly... Rather than me, a screw fix heat gun, woolworths sander, a few grades of gritt and the odd 30 mins while taking a brake from lifes domestics...

nice... would it not be better to get the lillle un a longer left arm before a pre-amp?

try plusgas... penetrating oil... wd40 is a water dispersant or fine lube... not as good as plusgas. same as bike maint... drill it out... sometimes even with a normal drill, on reverse, may have enough bite to remove... maybe enough to just replace the set screw... rather than the knob

It would be great if you could spec a guitar from Major Manufactures. The likes of Ibanez and Yamaha produce a varied range... Fender maybe less options... It shouldn't be impossible to build from a drop down list... A Parts Bin Special... like specing a car... Then shipped via the countries distributer to your chosen dealer, or directvdelivery. Body - Shape and Wood / Neck - Fingerboard and Inlays / Pickups - Switches and Controls / Finish - Colour And Wood...

My £10 Cruiser... (plus £9 for some cheapy machine heads - thanks to Aidan) now in Danish Oil...

I found a template pdf for the fender thumb rest for jazz and p ... so things like that are out there... Try moddifying ya google search... maybe with a part number if you can find one... https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.bassistisinasce.it/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Fender-Jazz-bridge-cover-template.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwitmseu1r3qAhW7ThUIHT27BqYQFjAKegQIBRAB&usg=AOvVaw0TJFUOZ8qLOmvY9RiDZWtw new stuff will prolly come with one in the packet... or maybe an e-mail to customer services...

Interesting... Maybe VBT and a planking plug... Am i right in thinking Vol would usualy be Audio Taper or Linear... and Tone? No load make any much difference?

Also interested in a 'best versitile' wiring PJ set up for my Ibby GSR200, and removing the Active PHAT II 4 Pot Holes... VVTT, VBT? - Pot value? 250k or 500k... No Load Tone? - Linear or Audio Taper for Vol and Tone? - Capacitor value? Balance / Blend Pot? 250 or 500 MN... Wiring diag - ground or ungrounded? Would like to do myself, but not sure what to do...

looks as it should... were the holes for the pups already the right size? Do you have before and after pics? Need a pic of the whole body / bass

i dont think Neck and Bridge pickups have different spacing... Different winding on a standard bobbin maybe... what you are describing is way smaller and a much better fit than the PJ on my Ibby, and most others out there... 1) How much are they? 2) What else are ya options in spacing? - not a lot i expect... 'GO'

18mm String Spacing is at the bridge? Gonna be less running over the bridge pup, and less again over a neck pup... How wide are ya strings at the point they go over the pup position?

No worries... Nice to know it will gain use and enjoyment.. Paul

Hi Russ, If still available, my eldest would very much like this for their newly aquired Gumtree £25 special, Stagg Dreadnought Black Acoustic... Just put a new set of strings on it... They are very much in to the 'Rainbow' scene... As always in life, will ensure Kama is present and a helping hand or kind word offered whenever the opertunity arises.

Thank to all for the above... Got a £12 heatgun from Screwfix... Takes of the top coat but leaves a hard clear underlayer... That needs sanding off. The heatgun should help on the sides... Bit of googling, come across Danish Oil, looks nice and simplish to achive so may well go with that.. Will go to higher grit after i've done the headstock, neck and body all over with the 240 i've got.. 'Kin hot arsing about wiv a heat gun today!

Aidan sorted me some cheapy P Bass machine heads he had kicking about... Sent em real quick 'n well packaged... Good Darts!

Thanks for the advice and offer... Fired up the cheap Woolworths orbital sander... Gonna work my way down 60, 80, 120, 240 grit Started on the body, back 60... Enough noise for the neighbors this eve... More tommorow... Not looking forward to the edges... Keep the advice coming regarding a finish... Satin, low sheen, i like the oiled wood idea.

Quick ask for some advice.. I have read a lot of the build diaries and refyrb projects... Want to strip the red from my £10 Cruiser by Crafter P-a-like.. Trying to blag a loan of a heat gun from a mate... Not worth a spend fora one off... After that what Grit to sand the body and headstock after logo removal with wire wool? Got some machine heads coming, so may as well sort it before fitting... Neck is gloss lacquor, and a little sticky compared to the satin of the ibanez, would a go over with the same grit sort that? Finaly a finish for the bare wood - coat of satin lacqour? Any other option? It's gotta be cheap! All advice welcome.