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Question: Is Wool Cool a good material for wadding? Is it good enough? I mean this stuff, found in insulated boxes from places like Riverford. One of my neighbours is getting rid of some.

I'm lost. Has a post been deleted?

NTR10-2520E ordered, along with the CDX1-1070. I really hope that I got the tweeter right as that part is somewhat buried in the main thread. Also @stevie is very kindly making the inductors for this. Next up it's buying the caps and resistors, and wiring it all together. For the benefit of future builders, here are the parts, and where to buy them: Woofer: Officially Celestion Pulse 10 but I swapped it for the Celestion NTR-2520E Tweeter: Celestion CDX1-1070 Throat horn: I think it's a choice of 1 according to the spec. Here it is Port: Tuffcab 100mm. Needs to be extended by 2 inches with cardboard Resistor: 4.7ohm 20W Capacitor: 2.2uF 250V Inductor: 0.11mF. Custom made by @stevie so contact him with the specification. Available on eBay Speakon dish. You may find something better than this, but you probably won't. Speakon connector: Neutrik is the best. Wadding: A neighbour had wool-cool going spare. This comes with meat online orders I think Little things that seem so obvious but you don't have when you need them: Wire to join up the various components. Mains cable is fine, but this is cheap and high quality too Cable ties for fixing the crossover components to a board Glue gun to stop the crossover components vibrating Screws! Nothing I bought came with any screws. Buy what you need from B&Q, and buy loads. Spade connectors. You will need two sizes, one for the speakon, one for the tweeter. Chocolate block to connect up wires, particularly to connect up the crossover. Buy one block and cut it into pairs using scissors. The following are nice-to-haves, and I bought them: Rubber feet: Buy whatever size you like, but I went chunky. A pack of 16 allows you to fit them vertically and horizontally Corner protectors: Again buy to taste. I went industrial Grille: Getting a full front grille was just too hard to source. I only care about protecting the woofer, so bought the grille and the kit to mount it Top hat: Only if you want to mount on a pole. Metal is heavy. Wish I'd thought of that before I bought it. I will add to this list as I see it.

Thanks Phil. I'm edging towards the NTR-2520E at this point purely because of the discount at lean-business. It looks like a beast of a woofer. Downsides to that are that it has a larger diameter, so if I want to hard-swerve back to the comfort of the Pulse10 it's a new baffle time. Will I have to adjust the port depth for this speaker? I seem to remember that the port was already fairly close to the back panel.

After months of deliberation my father and I decided to give the BC110T a crack. Ultimate aim is to give ourselves the experience to build a 12", but that's another story. Instructions by @Phil Starrand @stevieare exemplary. Although the divergence from those instructions is minimal, we are doing things a little differently: You can see the wood is not plywood, but OSB. That just so happens to be the wood we had available. Once the box is done most likely we will finish with a hard epoxy or yacht varnish so that it looks amateur, but still is resilient to knocks. We haven't bought it yet, but we will swap out the Pulse10 driver for either the BN10-300X(8) or (Stevie's suggestion) the NTR10-2520E. Both of those woofers are more expensive than the Pulse10, but not by a huge amount. Their parameters are very similar to the Pulse10 where that's important, and they exceed in the others where that's preferable. I cannot really add to the instructions laid out in the mega thread on the topic. They're perfect. I will say that I'm super excited to make some noise at the end of the build, as well as during it. The table saw cut the wood like butter, and the cut was extremely accurate and true. The circular saw was equally straight with a jig, but it was much harder, with clamps and the like. In the end we cut the big panel down to smaller manageable chunks using the circular saw, and the table saw made the mm perfect cuts. The battens were from B&Q, and were cut using a mitre saw, pictured. Progress will be slow but I hope to keep this thread updated with developments. The battens have been dry mounted to the panels. We will save the gluing for a later date.

Thanks for that. I assume this is a different design and not a cut-n-shut on 2 x BC112mk3. 18kg is impressive for a 2x12!

Let me add a 4. Parts availability: The Jack 112 is built around an American supply-chain, compared with the BC112mk3 which was designed for building in the UK. For the Jack, the woofers are Eminence and the piezos are much, much cheaper in the US than here in these fair shores, and you need to buy loads for the meld array. Whether the Faital Pro 12PR320 can go toe to toe with the Eminence Kappalite 3012 is not really a fair question as they're not the same and probably have different goals, and the BFM gives a range of options so there's something for every price point but I cannot shake the feeling that adjusting parts for the same cost (to me in the UK), I'd end up with nicer components for the BC112 than the Jack.

Thank you Phil for your helpful answers. As I read up on its build process, the BC112mk3 and its instructions are complete in the sense that there's no ambiguity and two different but skilled woodworkers would end up with identical performing boxes finished to the same standard. I definitely do not class myself in that category. At the same time you are absolutely correct that BFM plans include step by step instructions compared with a parts list, dimensions and cutting list for the BC112mk3. As I've already paid for the BFM plans I cannot factor the plans' cost into the build cost comparison, although conversely I will resist temptation to fall into the sunk cost fallacy trap. For the benefit of those reading, there are some things that are huge (IMHO) benefits of choosing the BC design: Metric units: Yes, I can convert from one measurement to another, but it almost seems like willful obstinence that the BFM designs only have imperial units. The BFM forums say that there are online converters, which is fine, but given that these are commercial plans and so you are not allowed to share it, this means that everyone who wants to convert has to do this individually and cannot give back to the community, even if they wanted to. Angular cuts: BC112 seems to be straight cuts (with two very notable exceptions). The Jack baffle is rather daunting (this is one sheet of ply) and I would say getting this precise is more important than the BC112 bracing, which is a similar concept of a window frame design. Also the BFM has straight cuts with the edge at an angle. One is 23°, and there are optional cuts at 66° and 24°. The plans say you can complete the build without a table saw, but I would say this needs to be caveated with the fact that your circular saw needs to do arbitrary angles to the horizontal, which my one cannot. Vertical dispersion: Much is made of Jack's meld array with its 120° horizontal dispersion. The BC112 uses a horn with a smaller 90° horizontal dispersion. However, a meld array smooths out its high response by putting loads of piezos in a vertial stack, which compromises horizontal (Update: vertical) dispersion. There is no data on BFM's plans as to vertical dispersion but the top and bottom piezos will be 10" apart, so it's probably going to be a laser beam! This won't be so good for a bass cabinet on the floor with an amp on top. The BC112's PH-170 has 65° vertical dispersion. To be fair to the Jack, there's no free lunch and the plans say as much; there's an option to dial back the number of piezos to increase vertical dispersion at the expense of high frequency sensitivity. In conclusion, there is no conclusion. I wake up each day thinking something different. Probably in the end the Jack 112 will win out basically because of the crossover, but I hope that my ramblings will help people after me reach an independent decision, crucially before sinking any money into the BFM plans like I did.

You're asking the wrong crowd! Everyone here will massively undervalue it in the hope you do actually post it at that price, then snap it up. Not me though, you can trust me. I think £150 is a fair asking price.

A week or so ago I asked some questions about building a BFM Jack 112 and got some very helpful answers from the community. The main question was "can I put a Faital 12PR320 into it?" To which the general answer was "yes, but....." As a happy coincidence, there is a cabinet that does take the Faital 12PR320, the Basschat 112 Mk3! I'm now torn between which one to build. As sound is so subjective I'll put that to one side, assuming I'll like the sound of both. It's the build process that interests me. I have a table saw, a circular saw and a jigsaw, a soldering iron, and absolutely no experience with any of them! They are all borrowed for the purposes of this project. 1. Crossover: The BC112 crossover is a significant portion of the build process. I would say that BFM's crossover is within my capability, but the snake-pit of cables and pool of solder I would normally leave makes the BC112 beyond me. Is there anyone on this channel who would be prepared to make a BC112mk3 crossover for me and if so how much would it cost? I've roughly costed up both builds and the BC112 is cheaper, but it's close and this may tip the scales the other way given the difference between buying parts and buying a prebuilt BFM crossover at speakerhardware.com 2. Ply: 15mm looks to be elusive in all the places I'm looking. Am I just not looking hard enough? I'm not the kind of player to shred speakers: I've survived on the AI 1x10 so far, so with that in mind, would I get away with 12mm? Assuming this is OK, I can account for the change in size due to the box dimensions changing, but will I need to change the bracing design (or said another way are the dimensions sensitive enough to be affected by the change in width of the bracing?) 3. Back plate: I cannot visualize what's going on here. There's no mention of what connector to buy in the Part list. Is it just one Speakon that's drilled into the scrap ply left over from the horn cutout? 4. Wire: Mostly moot if I can get the crossover pre-built, but what wire do I use to wire this all up internally? I'm fairly new to all this and I intend on going to Wilko's to buy their "speaker cable" and split the two wires, irrespective of which design I end up building. 5. CNC and glue: I obviously don't want to start if the tolerances are such that a CNC build is required. The instructions say to use wood glue, and NOT to use PU. By contrast BFM says to use PU and NOT to use wood glue. I can understand the reasoning for both, but given that I won't be CNCing and the PU is designed to fill the gaps in the imperfections in the cut, would I get away with cutting using saws and using PU? I already have a bottle of both glues.

Again, I'm posting stuff as I find it, and thank you all of you who have helped me here. Re the "ski slope" mids on the 3012, apparently that is a deliberate design choice and is quite musical and practical. I read on a thread at The Other Place that the boosting in the high mids is so that you get a better off-axis response. How true that is wasn't confirmed, and as I say, it was on The Other Site.

It's off-topic posts like this that keep me hooked on Basschat. Thanks a lot!

Well for my part I did some digging and found this thread which seems to discuss differences in the 12PR300 and 12PR320. If big names such as Vanderklay and Bergantino are using the 12PR300 then I don't think I'd be disappointed with that, even if the thread seems to lean toward the 12PR320 as more bang for buck. Not sure I'd like to go for a GB Fearless, what with me already parting with money for the plans for the BFM cab, coupled with the fact it uses the Eminence woofer.

The guys at PMT say that the ABM is the go-to amplifier for letting customers test out basses in their stock. If that's true then it's understandable if it's the amp that gets bashed around the most.

I think something has changed recently. I have previously had fantastic comms from them but in the previous two emails I've sent to them I've been ghosted. Customer service is important to me and if it isn't there there's no reason I feel I should pay the premium for a particular brand that's historically been known for it. Such a shame.

I've got the plans for a BFM Jack 12. The plans recommend a premium driver of the Eminence Kappalite 3012HO, but for two reasons I would like to go with Faital: Eminence is American. Nothing against American products, but I would prefer to support European if possible Faital looks to me a smidgen cheaper for similar performance. However there are a number of speakers available. Some are outside the recommended T/S parameters such as the 12FH500, but there are two main ones which fit, the 12PR300 and the 12PR320. Looking at these side-by-side on paper it looks like the 320 has lower extension, and the 300 is more sensitive and perhaps gives a little more in the upper register. I've never done this sort of thing before. So, with that in mind: For those who know more about cabinet building, which would be the more appropriate for the horn loaded cabinet? I'm not an aggressive player and the loudest I expect to get will be for light rock and country. I'll be building the box with tweeters, which are crossed over at 2k. What kind of player would choose the 12PR300 and which kind of person would choose the 12PR320? The 12FH500 fits all parameters except the Qts, where it is too small (.3>.25). What does this mean in real-world terms? How bad would fitting this speaker into a cabinet designed for the larger Qts? Am I nuts for swapping the 3012HO for a Faital 12PR320? I asked on BFM's forum and BFM himself said that the Faital won't be so good in the mids. I personally thought the SPL of the 3012HO looked a bit like a ski slope above 1k which wouldn't be a good thing for a speaker! The good/bad thing about opinions is that everybody has one, so what do other people think about comparing the 3012HO to the 12PR3_0? With my first criterion above (and a slight preference for the second), is there another speaker manufacturer I should be looking at? Beyma? Anything British made? Any help appreciated. Yes this is ultimately for helping me build a BFM cabinet, but a large part is for my general education

Long story short, I have an old style GSS 06B400 amplifier head, one that takes a proprietary adapter when connected to the amplifier: I contacted GSS about buying this cable but unfortunately postage, customs, etc etc made it prohibitively expensive, so in the end I bought myself the end terminal from Amazon and knocked myself up one myself. These little plugs are 5.08mm PCB terminal blocks. I could only buy in packs of 10, so keeping a couple spare in case I break the cable I've just made I have 8 rattling around doing nothing and are free to a good home. If you want to collect from Oxford or want to pay postage for one, some, or many of these please do get in contact. I can help you source these new, but be warned that the clip can come on either side of the mould when you purchase. The ones I have a guaranteed to work in the CH2 slot of an olf 06B400 amplifier.

Think it's the NXTa that has active circuitry. The NXT is passive so will either need a preamp like the excellent Fishman Platinum, or an ultra-high impedance socket on the mixing desk.

Someone at Ashdown said on Facebook that you could indeed choose an original blue faceplate should you wish, so you're in luck!

Personally I wouldn't buy anything musical without playing it first, but I have the luxury of living walking distance from a music shop, and it's a bus ride to London if I feel moved to. Not everyone has that luxury so the shops have to sell the same stuff that my grubby mitts have been all over. 'd like to think I'm a conscientious shopper, but not everyone is so it inevitably gets dinged. Thomann is the new model where the norm is online sales. When you buy from them you're fairly confident that the instrument is still in its wrapping. That kind of shopping is not for me, and when it inevitably becomes the norm I'll be stuck. Places like PMT can't stay in business selling B-stock guitars that people have broken then not bought. Saying that, a missing back plate is a bit much.

Only for heavy metal guitarists.

If it's OP's band then yeah sure do this. If it isn't, then this is a really bad move and I'd be mega miffed to be on the receiving end of this.

Since we're venturing into Spinal Tap territory, "Why not make it go up to 5 or 6"?