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That's a fair distinction. I did wonder if I needed to write that it was the equivalent of a setup running at 1Ω, and yes there are better, and cheaper ways of doing it.

Sorry yes.

Ashdown do actually offer something from their ABM family called the Geezer Butler Head of Doom. This is as far as I can tell an ABM 600, but with the option to daisy chain them, so with a thick enough wallet you can have as many cabinets as needed. I would suggest that there are better ways of doing this, but it must be quite a sight on stage! Diagram below taken from Ashdown's own website shows a setup potentially running at 1Ω

I did this repair on a different brand of headphones, cutting and re-soldering. It was a nightmare. We were talking about homoeopathic levels of copper in the wire, which made soldering next to impossible. Saying all that, it wasn't impossible and someone better than me probably can do it without too much difficulty. The headphones I fixed were cheap so maybe you may be pleasantly surprised with these Boss ones.

Can confirm it's a lot of fun, and thoroughly educational. I'm not on the same level as @GlamBass74, so if you're starting out I'd probably look at what I'm turning out in terms of what you can achieve from a standing start. Here's my BC112. I want to build another but some of the parts are still out of stock unless you build it without a tweeter. In terms of colour, I know you can customize to a certain extent with certain cabinet manufacturers, but there's something rather satisfying about either browsing the shelves of Wilko, or using up the tins of paint in your shed.

While most pros are next level, he's 41 levels above that.

This doesn't sound right. The EA Doubler is a decent amp, and a 12" EA Wizzy 12M has a sensitivity of 103dB. Given you're playing an upright bass I would guess you're not playing thrash metal, so I'm going to go out on a limb and say that you probably could be loud enough without spending anything extra: I'd be blowing barn doors off with your setup. A few things for you to check: When you blend your two pickups, have you ensured they're in phase? I don't think this has ever happened to me to a significant extent but when blending two sources each one could be cancelling each other out. One way to test would be to dispense with one for a bit and seeing if that improves things. As an aside how loud does your band play? Of course if you like the blended sound of the two pickups then I can't argue with that, but if it's just to tame feedback I've never ever had problems with using just a Full Circle. Are you using a HPF? You absolutely definitely want to be using this. The double bass booms so removing all the bass frequencies paradoxically is what you want to do. I don't know which EA Doubler you have but the manual I'm looking at seems to have a jumper setting for an 80Hz HPF. That's what you want, and don't let any electric bassist tell you otherwise Again I stress I'm saying this without knowing what type of music you play, but I will say that I've played many jazz big band gigs with 350W into one 10" speaker. Sometimes in the absolute worst possible rooms I was left wanting, but not often and I know more about EQ now so perhaps that was down to my naivety. Your setup is on paper (I've never tried it) more performant than what I've used for many years.

The b pentatonic has notes b d e f# a b. The b dorian has notes b c# d e f# g# a b. There's a fair amount of overlap there. In fact the Venn diagram would be concentric circles! I could guess that what this video was saying was that when you'd normally reach for a pentatonic, try using the dorian instead. The added notes won't clash if the pentatonic scale fit already, and it immediately takes your solos to the next level in terms of colour and vocabulary. Now that I'm saying this, I remember a video by Guthrie Govan on this very topic, but your video obviously couldn't have been this one because he's a guitarist 😜 In terms of playing a b dorian over an A major, a lot of jazz and surprisingly a lot of pop centres the solo around the 9th degree of the scale. Playing too many As in an A major piece can get boring real quick. Changing the scale up a tone can help break the mindset of sticking to the root note, something I'm definitely guilty of in my own playing.

Lovely amps, lovely guy. I had the pleasure to talk to Rick over email and on the phone. He came across as knowledgeable and friendly. He had a good chuckle when I scheduled the phone call in GMT: "I had to look up what that meant!" RIP.

Thanks for the review Phil. Just for curiosity's sake how does it stack up against your BC110T? Same dimensions? I'm going to guess that other people will immediately want to compare this to the BF's One10T, but I don't having never heard nor seen the latter . If you class the BF 12" as coloured, then I'd guess that the Monza and the One10T are like chalk and cheese, and only similarity is the size of the driver.

On the subject of beaming, I asked my good, and only, friend ChatGPT this very question: This, erm, surprised me, that according to my esteemed AI, the beaming frequency halved in a ported cabinet, so I followed up: This smells like hogwash to me, but is anyone more acquainted in hogwash able to chime in here? For the benefit of search engines, here are the images above in text:

One thing I don't get about the flat vs round debate is the thing about flats lasting longer. I mean when rounds get old they sound like flats to me. So, with that in mind, what's the difference between an old round set and an old flat set other than feel and cost of purchase?

Thanks Phil. This is what made me think it was the same cabinet volume. I'll take a look at the other Beyma. At least I don't have to panic buy the SM212! I'll keep looking for cases.

What are people using for cases with this cabinet? I am trying to see if a cahon case would work but it looks like the cabinet is too big sadly. While I'm here, I built three cabinets but only have two woofers. Reading back on this thread it looks like the cabinet dimensions are the same as the BC112mk2. Is that true? Can I just buy a beyma and create a new baffle?

To post a contrarian view, as someone who now owns a fretless after starting with playing a double bass, I found double bass lessons were invaluable. The common fingering for DB, where you don't use your third finger, is what I use for electric bass, and it's comfortable and absolutely fine for everything I need to play. By contrast, I will say that I started the double bass at the same time as someone else, who was already an established bass player. He couldn't make the switch.

Don't laugh, but I walk onto stage carrying it by its handle, I put it down, plug in and then I flick it on. I see no reason to have it on the cabinet. If I can hear myself I'm not one for fiddling which probably works in my favour here.

Just finished a gig with my trusty BC110T cabinet and my ABM600. It was excellent but the main reason I'm writing this is because I've never seen anything written by someone who's used the ABM with a double bass. I wasn't sure as at least to me the ABM is seen as an electric bass amp. It was really rather good for double bass. The input impedance is high enough that I could just plug straight into the amp from the piezo pickup. Other amps that I've tried (lookin' at you Markbass) are horrible and really need a preamp. A little bit of compression meant that I was able to do something I've never really done before: slap. I also really don't take issue with weight that people seem to have. Yes it's heavier than my other amp, but it's by no means heavy, and it's probably one of the lighter items I need to carry to the venue.

It was all good fun. I'm probably all good for bass cabinets, but sadly I've got the itch now. One thing I keep forgetting to mention is that I bought some BFM plans. For various reasons I decided to instead build the BC112, but I will say that these plans are full of tips, like how to do joins, and how to test for leaks. Purchasing the plans for the Simplexx 12, say, will give you a good set of mental tools to get you going with cabinet building so I would definitely recommend purchasing at least one.

OK, update time. Won't bore you with details, but the cabinet has only just arrived at home for me to blast through. The harsh resonant frequency is gone which makes me conclude it's either been bashed into shape in transit, or the previous location had some pretty nasty standing waves. I'm going to compare this with the BC110T because that's the most similar cabinet I have. Some caveats out the way Neither of these cabinets is built to spec. The mk3 I couldn't find the horn so had to swap it out. The BC110T I swapped the woofer, because why not! I then tinkered with the crossover, again because why not! I am not a critical listener. I'm fairly sure I could enjoy music played through tin cans and a wet string. So, with that out the way, here's me listening through a Denon HiFi in the living room. Room is around 8' floor to ceiling and fairly stuffed with, erm stuff. If you swap the cable back and forth, it's immediately apparent, with the EQs set flat, that the 12" woofer allows the bc112 to exude an authoritative bass that isn't there in the 10". Bear in mind I could (and did!) buy two 10" speakers for the price of the one 12", but I played the comparison to my wife and I believe her words were "wow, where's the bass gone?" when I made the switch. For a bass cabinet that's rather a big deal in my opinion, but see my previous comments in this thread about playing upright bass. For the treble side, I will treat this comparison with extreme caution as this is where the changes I made to the designs come into effect. For my cabinets at least the BC112 has pleasant highs, albeit a bit veiled towards the upper end. It's very similar to my ancient Sennheiser HD580s in that regard. The BC110 is much crisper by comparison, perhaps a little too pronounced in absolute terms, although that may have been me tinkering too much. I'm too lazy to go back and revert the crossover changes I made so it can't be that bad though. For my wife, she liked the BC112, but felt it lacked something, She couldn't put her finger on it, but whatever that something was was present in the BC110. For the record, this was at pleasant living room listening volumes rather than face melting volumes. Absolute volume? No idea. I've played a pair of BC110s in an absolutely worst case scenario venue and it cruised through a jazz big band. I haven't gigged the BC112. Both cabinets exceed the capability of what I can play at home sensibly. For practising, I have to say that neither is appropriate: they're definitely for taking on the road. When my children are tucked up in bed upstairs I want my bass cabinet to be about 3 feet from me. At that distance, both cabinets are too big, and also for both cabinets, the two sound sources of the woofer and the tweeter are distinct, which for me is a distraction. I'd say that for this task I have a fantastic cabinet in the shape of the GSS06B400MKD, containing a co-axial speaker. I've even done gigs with this. Marvellous cabinet. Anyway, back to the direct comparison. For convenience, the 10" scores highly. Not only is it much lighter, but its size makes it much more manoeuvrable round corners and through doors. I've put the BC110 on a bicycle pannier rack. I cannot do that with the BC112mk3. If I could build the BC110 again however I would absolutely put in the top circular handle that the BC112 has. That's so nice. The BC112 is my largest and heaviest cabinet, but I know it's a feather compared with some of the behemoths out there. There are no conclusions to this ramble to be honest. I'm the happy owner of three cabinets (one BC112, two BC110), and a lot of sawdust. I'd probably still pick the BC110 over the BC112 for double bass. For electric, I'd probably pick the BC112 unless I was cycling. If anyone has any questions I'm happy to answer honestly to the best of my ability. If anyone wants to play through them, I'm happy for that also. Next steps? Probably another BC112 with the correct horn and nicer wood, if I can afford it. Sheesh wood is expensive now.

Depending on the layout of the cabinet, placing it on its side may move the woofer significantly closer to the floor. That can have a difference to the sound. Similarly if there's a tweeter with different vertical and horizontal dispersion patterns.

Yeah, it's a beautiful sound. No boom at all. I have an ABM 600 which I've never tried with it. I think that's for my next bass gig where I travel by car. Last gig I cycled the BC110t on the back of my bike! Next up is the wedding where these will be PA tops. Can't wait!

OK, I've done some critical listening, and I don't think I can pass judgement on the design as I don't think I've made it right. I played a 30Hz tone at a fair volume and there were definitely artefacts that shouldn't be there. I ran my ear along all the seams and couldn't detect any leaking so the turbulence may well be something inside the cabinet. That I can probably live with. What I cannot is there is a pronounced hump in the upper bass frequencies, probably between 100-400Hz. It may be the room I'm playing it in, but I played my Acoustic Image side by side and that was a much flatter response. This cabinet was intended to be the prototype using cheap wood. I'm still bitterly disappointed that I didn't nail it, but I'm a little buoyed that I'll be able to correct the niggling errors that I made along the way with a second one. If I'm slow enough the horn may well come back in stock!

Yeah, sucks to spend more on something that doesn't fit the requirements. The cutouts are different so it's not like I can swap it when it does come back in stock, and the horn's weight is noticeable when holding it on its own: it's a chunky monkey. Haven't been able to play through it today as the cabinet is being painted. I've built a frame for a cloth grille. What kind of fabric is suitable? I read somewhere that mosquito netting is good but I cannot find it now that I'm searching.

I think this must be it: I've used both phones into a mono input, and CDs from my Denon hi-fi. Perfectly pleasant to listen to all genres except classical, but I'd prefer the Denon bookshelf speakers given the choice. I have very little frames of reference you see, so maybe I'm comparing the wrong things. I have the GSS 06B400MKD which sound absolutely amazing for hifi, but the speakers in those are coaxial studio monitors. The coax isn't a gimmick, it really makes a difference when you're sitting right next to your speakers. I see that the P-Audio is out of stock again. It's a popular horn clearly. Unlikely as that is a part that I didn't make! For the BC110T I swapped out the woofer for one that is 3dB more sensitive, so the less sensitive highs was probably my fault. I know enough electronics to realize that it's the resistor that causes attenuation so I shorted the resistor in the design. It is much much better now because of that, but I wasn't expecting to do it here, but given the above it may just be me. I'll report back when the cabinet has done a gig, or when I've practised a few hours through it. I'm buoyed that I plugged in a double bass and no knob twiddling needed it sounded fantastic and rather loud (or so my children say, I was enjoying myself too much at the time to notice.)