chyc

That looks to only have two analogue inputs, unless I'm missing something obvious.

It's interface replacement time I'm afraid if that's your requirement. There are bodges to allow for e.g. two dual input interfaces to record simultaneously (Google ASIO4ALL if you're interested) but they're bodges and I couldn't get it working when I tried. Some interfaces allow for additional inputs. The Audient iD44 that I own is one such interface, but the SSL2+ most definitely is not. So, with that said I can recommend the iD44, although without the MIDI you'll instead have to use USB or possibly the SSL2+'s MIDI I/O. The iD44 has the benefit of input expansion of up to 20 analogue inputs via its ADAT input, but you'd need to spend even more money for those.

If it's the SSL2+ rather then the SSL2 then it should have two MIDI I/O sockets at the back. These are the sockets that look like the really old mouse/keyboard inputs, only bigger. The SSL2 has no MIDI, but as @skidder652003 says you have options, either to plug into the USB port on your computer or use a jack and record the analogue audio coming from the keyboard. I've done the former and it works, but was a real pain to find the driver for my very old keyboard. Good luck. If you do want to replace your interface, I will say the one you have is a mighty fine one so don't be too disappointed if your replacement doesn't quite stack up, unless you're prepared to splash cash. I own the SSL2+ and an Audient iD44. The latter is better, but not by a country mile and it doesn't even do MIDI!

Trying to join the illustrious BC112mk3 club. Panels cut and some glued together. I actually enjoyed cutting the brace around the handle. Now just a case of plucking up the courage to cut those braces. Eek. I did try to experiment with nice corner cuts with the rear connector panel: One thing that I don't understand with the instructions is what it's asking for with a recessed panel. Is that required? What does it look like?

For the record, I purchased four sheets of wood for examining and building cabinets. 12mm soft plywood from B&Q Baltic birch [BB] from Fulham Timbers Marine ply from Fulham Timbers 15mm soft plywood from Fulham Timbers The speaker you see above is the B&Q 12mm soft plywood. I was going to lead up to the BB after practising using the B&Q timber. Definitely the BB is better quality and looks nicer, but my goodness was it expensive. I cannot bring myself to say how much I paid for it, but you know where I bought it from, and prices are a Google away..... I want a natural finish on my cabinets to distinguish it from commercial cabinets. In my opinion the B&Q is good enough but too soft: it's very prone to dents and knocks. Whether I can strengthen it using yacht varnish is something I will experiment with later. The marine ply was also reasonably pricey, and feels harder and better quality than the B&Q. The main downside that I wish I'd known about is that marine ply is darn heavy, waay heavier than the BB. I was hoping to build a BFM Omni 12 Tallboy with the marine ply but that design is already a heavy one and I don't want it any heavier. The 15mm ply is incredibly poor quality, which is a shame as it is of a similar price to the B&Q 12mm which looks so good. I was hoping to build the BC112T using it and I may well still do that, but can't help feeling disappointed that I could have spent my money better. At the heart, the difference I think is that if you drive to B&Q you can select the nicest sheet. B&Q doesn't sell 15mm in any shape or size.

Thank you. I was happy with ol' chippy, but this one is a different animal. It goes louder, and is deeper. You'll notice the protrusion of the back panel. In the original chipboard cabinet the tolerances were so loose that I didn't notice that my battens were 21mm width, not 20mm. Well, on the plus side my measurements are improving! I think my next one I'll leave a lip around the back panel, so I can sand it down for a really tight finish.

You're too right. I'm looking at a table with four speakers in boxes. I have three sheets of plywood of various quality outside in the garage, some cut already and my chippy cabinet is still warm from the jigsaw cutting still. I have some questions still: I affixed the port using duct tape. I *think* it's a good seal, and I did it because I want to remake the cabinet using decent wood. When I do, what should I use as a better solution? Is duct tape good enough? I wish to reuse the battens. There will be holes in them from the old screws. Is that OK?

Boom There are gaps the size of the mariana trench, but hopefully everything is sealed up nicely. I didn't put wadding in, because I want to save it for a later build that isn't made of OSB. Saying that, I guess the question people want answering is "how does it sound?" Pretty good is the answer. No deep throbbing lows, but I'm not too fussed as I'm predominantly a double bass player, and this cabinet is perfectly tuned for that. There is wonderful string detail coming from the tweeter that usually comes across as horribly harsh in other cabs. The woofer isn't broken in either so I expect it to mellow out as it ages. One step that I found difficult was the fitting of the front baffle. The brace across its front is one snug fit. Impotant I know but the tolerances are such that it was a real pain to get that in. I wish to thank everyone on this thread for their advice and support . This has been a wonderful experience both online and in the workshop (aka garage) and the tips I learnt here are invaluable. Similarly I hope this thread serves as a useful supplement to the main thread on this cabinet. I will be building more and hopefully will put more pictures up online as I go. Speaking of that, I'm currently waiting on a delivery of a CDX1-1425......

OK, progress update, I found a drink that can be used as a port extender! Bunnahabhain is available in Tesco's, but I won't add it to the list of component above as your tastes may vary. I cannot remember the thread I read this from, but someone mentioned that for decent circular cuts you put a screw in the centre of the circle and cut using a stationary jigsaw while rotating the panel of wood. Below is a picture of my attempt, using a pallet I found on the side of the road as something to screw into. You can see the result, a circular disc with the screw in its centre and a baffle with a hole in it. Also at the far left of the baffle you can see the notch caused by the hole I drilled, to get the jigsaw into place. I now know (experience is everything) that you drill inbound of the required diameter and slowly spiral out to the required distance. That way you don't get the notch. As you can see, I went off piste with the woofer. To say I'd be pretty piste off if this were decent wood would be an understatement but this I'm here to learn from this and learn I did, and on cheap wood! Let this be a lesson to future woodworkers, if you are cutting a circle you need the full circle drawn on the wood. Putting dots every 90 degrees does not work even if you think you're not moving the jigsaw. My mistake above is evidence of this. The forces required to hold a vibrating jigsaw are too great and you will not be able to keep it still while you rotate the sheet of wood. Anyway, the other two holes came out beautifully. The port doesn't have the drill notches by virtue of the spiralling technique I mentioned above: The plans give exact millimetre measurements, but they are darn forgiving. I wouldn't say I made bad measurements, but this is the first time I've done anything like this so I'm grateful that any deviations (other than the colossal one for the woofer) won't be noticeable in the final product. Here's the baffle with all the components in: I'm so keen to finish, but unfortunately I've had a few too many shots of Bunnahabhain (hiding behind the baffle in shot above) and so power tools are out of the question, at least for now. While I'm waiting to sober up, what should I do to fill the accidental hole I made? Can I leave it? It's larger than the mounting of the woofer unfortunately.

I sent an email to Ashdown including a few egregious typos and errors present on their website. It's been weeks and most of the errors are still there. It's like they don't care. Personally I don't think they realise how bad it makes them look. For me it makes Ashdown look like such an amateur outfit and unfortunately as much as I love them for many things, their online presence is a shadow of their competitors and they will be punished for it. I didn't even want anything for pointing out the mistakes: I just want them to succeed because they ace so much else.

A bridging amplifier would give a similar sound I think.

It carries over to the next line: 'Magnetic plywood MagLeg'. Presumably it's the attachment mechanism of the feet

You've got a real skill @GlamBass74 that looks amazing! I'm going to be making a BC112T eventually, then probably a Jack 12. Like @eude says if either of mine turns out half as good as yours that'd suit me fine. Love the cover as well. May have to steal that idea! Thanks Mrs GlamBass74!

Stahp! I'm already building three BC cabinet design cabinets. A fourth would probably tip the Mrs over the edge, with for reason I hasten to add. In all seriousness this looks good. I have a 6.5" which is amazing for DB and I suspect this one is cut from similar cloth.

I don't own the EMG JVX, but there's a good video demoing in on YT. Slap starts at 4:04 but it has all main styles if you start the video from the beginning. I'll leave it to you to decide if that's a good MM soundalike.

This is better

As far as I can tell. I have all the parts for the build now. Many thanks go to @stevie for the inductor, which as far as I can tell is unavailable anywhere else online. Here's my crossover: I look at the original schematic, and I'm reminded of the barbecue building scene from the Simpsons. In any case, with only three components even I struggled to fail at building it. Here is the tweeter, XO and woofer all in one circuit, hooked up to my trusty GSS Bullet amplifier: I've been listening to music all day with these two speakers in free-space, and I've got a serious problem: I fear that this build may give me a cabinet far better than anything I need, and the 12PR320 I have sitting next to me is redundant. The sound is pleasant to say the least. Highs are prominent but not harsh and the lows are firm without rattling the teeth. This setup will almost certainly make a fabulous PA top. Just for curiosity, I swapped the 2520E for the 12PR320 in the circuit above and the much preferred the sound of the former, but then that would be obvious as the XO is designed for it (of sorts). I then disconnected the tweeter and listened some more, and I still prefer the 2520E, but again that's plausible as the box can make quite a difference to the sound. This has been amazing fun so far. Can't wait to finish the job. The only hiccough was that I went round Sainsbury's trying to find a whisky bottle with a cylindrical sleeve to use as a port extender. Alas I could find none with the requisite diameter. Having a celebrationary whisky which contributed to the build would have been perfect Right, onto the box.

You'll get as many recommendations as responses I reckon. The local music shop where I live (PMT) has a selection of headphone out on display for you to try before you buy which is what I would do if I were in your position. You'd get really nice cans for £300, but there are some general principals that I look out for Open back vs closed back. All things being equal I much, much prefer open but the downside is there's a lot of sound bleeding in both directions. If you're in a quiet office you'll annoy your colleagues with open backed headphones, and if you're in a noisy office you'll get distracted with the outside noise. Bass response is generally better with closed, but I don't care about graphs: my ears tell me I prefer the open variety even for bass. Weight: I've tried headphones that sound great, but fatigue my neck too much when worn for extended periods. Comfort: For me this comes back to open vs closed. Closed headphones don't allow air to circulate and my ears overheat. Input impedance: Less of an issue these days but in the past some headphones would have ludicrously high input impedance. This would mean that consumer gear hifis wouldn't be able to get the best out of them. Watch out for 600Ω beasts and such cans do exist in the £300 range! Wireless vs wired: I am a luddite and will choose wired any day of the week. If I were to choose headphones again (I have and love my Sennheiser HD580s BTW) I'd put comfort above sound quality, and they would be light, open backed, and with an impedance around 150Ω. HTH

Done and done. And I mean done.

I think the fog is clearing. So it's that the tweeters, with the cabs on their side, will be vertically stacked in either configuration, but if mirrored they're closer together for better vertical dispersion? Thanks

Can someone please explain this to me like I'm 5: why do identical (not mirrored) baffles have not vertically aligned tweeters when on their side?

@GlamBass74If you could report back how you get on with the grille I'd be very interested. The instructions say you contact an eBay seller, to get something relisted on eBay if it's missing (which it is). Blue Aran lists grilles but they're out of stock. In the end for my current build of the BC110T I went with a circular disc grille. Hella ugly (IMO) but cheap and easy to buy. Saying all that, if you know somewhere where I can get a proper BC112T grille.......

Here you go