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Thanks @BlueMoon for your kind words. I bought the Celestion Horn, available at Lean Business in the UK. Whether they ship to the continent I do not know sadly.

I will do this. I don't have the two cabinets side by side at the moment to compare. I've just played a double bass through it and I have to say it did sound rather good. Would people like sound samples of this, the BC110T, a GSS 06B400 MKD and an Acoustic Image Coda R? Nothing scientific, just a fun shootout of all my cabinets. The muted highs were from playing music through the cabinets from my phone. Are traditional (inexpensive) hi-fi cabinets scoop voiced? My wife can hear a subtle treble rolloff as well so I don't think it's just me. A nudge with the EQ fixes things so it's not critical by any means, and I don't even need to do that when playing bass, which ultimately is all I care about. These cabinets are going to be played and worn in. I have a wedding in March and depending on how the chips fall I may be using the BC110Ts as PA tops for a ceilidh band! The BC112 will then take double bass duty It is indeed. To have a pair demolish a big band in an acoustically compromised venue for me shows just how potent they are. I probably could have got away with a single BC112, but I would have needed a bigger amp than the "100W" GSS Bullet

If you notice I changed the model of horn. That was for the simple reason that the one in the design was out of stock when it came to ordering. I understand that this changes phase and dispersion so with my mk3 that may be the reason the highs are a little muted. I picked the horn that explicitly listed compatibility with the Celestion CDX1-1415. It was never my intention to make it look like a Monaco, and as it so happened I took so long the horn came back in stock again. Doh! Now, the planer. Firstly I have to admit this was my first time in this so there was some pilot error, but definitely the wood didn't help. Both the planer and the sander seemed to latch onto loose ply and use that to rip up the fascias on some of the panels. There was none of that with the nice Baltic birch. Again, wood filler has saved me.

Initial thoughts: like the BC110T I think its highs are a little veiled. Do I need to wait for the speakers to loosen up? I would have thought that waiting would give me more bass rather than more treble, but I'm no expert. In terms of as a bass cabinet, I can totally hear stuff through this cabinet that doesn't come out the BC110T. There's an authoritative thud (not boomy I hasten to add) for kickdrum and low bass. That may be your jam, but I'm not working in those genres and I have to admit that the BC110T with its smaller size, and particularly its lower weight, is a better fit for me personally. I will say that the BC112mk3 seems to have better dispersion in the sense that I can sit on it and can hear what I'm playing. This may prove incredibly useful as the cabinet is the perfect height to sit on while playing a double bass. By no means am I disappointed with this cabinet: it sounds great with a bass and maybe I can grow to love it as a general purpose noise maker. I'll report back in a month or two once it's bedded in, but as things stand, I think the 10" speaker is better for double bass. I will have to post later about my experiences with a planer and sander. All I can say is that cheap wood and planing and sanding do not mix at all, and I have become quite an expert in wood filler as a result

If you're serious about being talked out of a purchase, I get the vibe that when you ruck up with a fretless bass, people think you're a show-off, whether rightly or wrongly. Bizarrely nobody seems to think that about a violin or cello player, but life isn't fair.

It's the final straight. Last panel glued down and drying now. I've made my first major boob unfortunately. If you've made the cabinet before you can probably see it just by looking at this photo: Basically I didn't like the vertical mount of the rear panel, so I rotated it. Now unfortunately I cannot put the rear brace up the back panel without interfering with the connector plate. Bummer Not to worry, I'm unlikely going to be playing anything heavier than Neil Sedaka so I just added a noggin that dangles just above the plate. You can see it in the photo above. I have tins and tins of seriously out of date paint. I'm going to open them up and see what options I have on the colour front. This was supposed to be the experimental build using uber cheap wood, but to be honest while I didn't nail everything first time, it's turned out pretty well, and I'm sure it will become a perfectly usable cabinet; this may well be my last build! The wood was atrocious though. Voids galore.

Afraid not. It's being built at my parents' house with all the tools, a fair distance away from where I live. That's why it's always so slow progress with me Hoping to visit next week (half-term) and most likely I will be able to get some sound out of it then. Really cannot wait!

I had exactly the same thing! Based on my own experiences I would place UPS lower than Evri for reliability and service.

Agreed. When the (pair of) cabinets is positioned around 10 feet behind me, they are absolutely perfect. I can hear myself clearly to tune, and the room fills up with the warm hum of a double bass that you just cannot get with an electric, although granted you can get close if all you do is pluck. I'll take this opportunity to thank three people again, @stevie and @Phil Starr for their amazing work designing, testing and writing up this cabinet, and the mk3, and @GlamBass74 for all his advice and support off-thread. I've gone from someone who didn't know what plywood was to someone who's built, finished and varnished his own cabinet!

I think next time I will lean the cabinet back. Thanks for the tip about rotating the horn. It looks symmetric but the blurb online says that it does have different vertical and horizontal dispersion so that may be an option, like on the BC112mk3. Don't think it would have helped in this case as the cab really was right next to me. The cabinet really is a very good fit for double bass. A bigger cone and cab will give me extended lows which I'm never going to need, and since I have two the SPL is taken care of already and I can easily take on drummers. I may even get away with one if ever I play with a tasteful drummer (if such a thing exists).

Just finished a community panto, playing bass. What a blast, had a great time. Played three performances with my Acoustic Image Coda [AI], and three with the BC110T, for science. The BC112mk3 still isn't ready sadly. I think that from the audience's point of view the BC110T sounded better. There's definitely more welly in the lower bass frequencies what with it being a ported design, and there was no boom to tame with a HPF. There's one scene where I bow a low A pedal note, and through the BC110T came this wonderful powerful growl that I have never ever been able to achieve before. However, the praise isn't all one way traffic: the AI, because of its clever down-firing woofer and mid range speaker was much, much clearer to me, which is important when you need to hear yourself to tune. This is a community panto and in the "pit" there was enough room for me, the cabinet/amp and a cup of tea. Thus, the speakers were around 2 feet behind me at ground level and served as both monitors and the only bass amplification for the room (seating capacity around 80). I'm sure I was vibrating teeth out in the front row, but I couldn't always hear myself. The AI is much smaller, although in this instance it has points deducted for that as I couldn't place my mug of tea on top of it. Next year if I'm asked back, I'll hopefully have the mk3 so I can bikeshed with even more cabinets

You can count on it! A word of warning though: my kit can be politely described as niche, and mainly geared towards double bass and lightweight cabinets. I'm also incredibly lax about my sound, so long as I can hear myself.

Am I the only person on this planet that prefers the staggered pots?

I've played the Yamaha TRBX 605, which essentially is the one you played with fancier wood. I did not get on with it at all. I ordered it in at PMT to try before I buy, thinking it would tick all the right boxes, but it didn't. I found the cheaper basses there, like the Sterling SUBs to be far better for playability and tone. I'd note that prices have gone a bit bonkers now so I don't know if the price differentials are the same. It's clearly a marmite bass. When it was no longer reserved for me and PMT put it on the shelf, it was gone within two weeks.

Gig over. The verdict is that these cabinets are indeed perfect for double bass, and are plenty powerful and clear. I played some small band stuff, but also some big band which I wasn't expecting. These cabinets filled the room with the GSS bullet amplifier you can see on top of it. Got some nice compliments about my sound, and a distinct lack of compliments about the woodworking and varnishing efforts on display. Venue was a nightmare scenario of a gym with hard floor and high(ish) ceilings. Almost certain my Acoustic Image wouldn't have coped but this setup worked fine. It is significantly heavier mind you, and while there was a little left on the dials to give more welly, the GSS was warm to the touch by the end of the gig and I wouldn't want to chance it. It's soo portable and cute though how could anyone not love it? I will have to get L brackets for the grille as the duct tape holding them in place is starting to peel. I think I will also make a scrap ply wedge to angle the upper cabinet towards my beautiful face next time (if there is a next time: I was quite rusty.) Here is all my equipment fitting into my car, double bass, cabinets, and child seat because I was too lazy to take it out.

Bad news. The venue have helpfully provided their own equipment. I may have to throw a hissy fit and say that my sound is unique and can only be achieved with the equipment I've brought.

I'll be taking these puppies on their maiden gig tomorrow. Double bass + GSS B-100. Should be fun. For the record, the higher sensitivity of the 10NTR-2520E over the Pulse 10 meant that high frequencies were a little shrouded for my taste in the end. I could have fixed that with eq, but at the same time the crossover was there for tinkering. I knew just enough electronics to know that the resistor handles sensitivity of the tweeter in this simple design, and phase shifting isn't really going to (ahem) phase me, so I just shorted the 4.7Ω resistor. @GlamBass74 helpfully showed me a link which (for Convair's crossover at least) gives a -4dB attenuation when using a 4.7Ω. The Pulse 10 is 2dB less sensitive than the 10NTR-2520E so in theory I've gone too far, but I reckon only a cat would hear the difference, and it's done now Really happy with these cabinets. They look the biz too, and hopefully the natural finish will age like a fine wine compared with peeling tolex and fluffy patchy carpet.

It goes in fits and starts. I'm actually building it at my parents' house so was able to get a fair bit done. All sides are in, as is the wadding. The top needs to go on, but there's about 1mm discrepancy in the height of the four walls. I will need to take a plane to a side before I am able to put the last side in. I'm now back home but will update as soon as I can. I've been in correspondence with @GlamBass74 who has been an immense help and support to me in this and the BC110T builds. One thing that I was going to blindly do (and may still do) is use wood screws to drill in the woofer. I figured that it was light enough and I wasn't going to be taking it in and out once everything was build. However, he did suggest reinforcing the inside of the baffle with either a ring or small strips of spare ply. I didn't do it for my BC110Ts and the wood screws barely poked out the other side, but for the heavier 12PR320 is it a necessity?

ARRRGGGGH. Lol, just kidding. Sometimes it's the journey rather than the destination that's the reason for going somewhere, as it is in this case.

Now that @stevie has announced it officially as a service, I feel free to say that I was an early beneficiary of the crossovers he sells. The crossover arrived promptly and was very competitively priced. I must say this is what convinced me to try the BC112mk3 over another competing design that I was thinking about. It arrived without the caulk: that butchery was me. Going back to the port hole, it came out better than I thought, but still not perfect. It's got caulk on the other side of the baffle so is airtight. If I feel moved to I may use wood filler later which is more amenable to painting, but I do like natural wood and filler tends to stain. Here is the last side panel going on. The wool cool has gone in and is looking fabulous. One advice I can give is to purchase TiteBond Premium over EvoStick. I cannot say whether one is a stronger bond than the other, but the former has the massive benefit of having a far superior applicator which makes spreading it easier, and stops it drying out when it's closed (it presses out the remnant on closing: genius).

Had the timings been slightly different I may have purchased a LfSys bass cabinet, but I'm currently having a lot of fun building the BC 112mk3. Some things to note, in comparison to the BC110T cabinet which you may see photos in another thread: It is a significantly harder build than the BC110T. The tolerances are tight and there is not much margin for error. The battens round the edge of the BC110T proved invaluable to affix panels. The parts are harder to source. Even the wood, being of the 15mm variety, required me to search online whereas 12mm can be found in B&Q and Wickes. Clamps are essential, including great big fat ones as seen in the photo I don't own an LfSys, but as everyone knows round here, bass gear can be judged by pictures alone so that's what I'm going to do. The LfSys looks to have groove joints, presumably to save on weight and increase the inherent strength to the build. There is absolutely no way I am capable of making such joints. Secondly, the circular cut-out for the port I did with a jigsaw. I did the best I could but it's not perfectly circular so when I do install the drainpipe it's going to look a little messy with caulk round the edge. The LfSys looks to either be CNC'd or cut using a hole saw so the port tube looks very professional. When it comes to cost, yes this is a saving over a Silverstone, assuming you already own the woodworking tools. Using the back of an envelope calculation I think I spent around £400 on parts, although I see that the 12PR320 has gone up a fair amount since I purchased it, and I bought cheap 15mm hardwood. Anyway, onwards to victory! I have a panto in January (oh yes I do) so I have that as an ambitious target to get this ready. I haven't decided what colour this is going to be. Orange tolex with a red baffle may cause the universe to implode, so that's tempting.

I believe the journey is close to an end. Plugged these in and fired them up to find a very nice sound indeed. Personally I can listen to all genres of music quite happily through these, except classical which seems hollow and lifeless for some reason. Tips for the next person: Black screws. Someone of this parish pointed out they look more professional and now I cannot unsee it when big-bucks cabinets are sold with silver screws. Saying that, the screws to put in the corner protectors were like hens' teeth so I had to settle for either countersunk silver or black button head. You can see flashes of silver in the corners: function beats form every time IMHO The grilles are held on with black gaffer tape, because I didn't like the look of the four grille holding plates: form beats function every time IMHO. If you get decent wood and varnish it the results are killer. No idea why this isn't more of a thing in the professional world. Varnish is yacht varnish from Wilkos. £12 and I used less than half a tin for both cabinets. Next stop is the bc112mk3. Still need to buy a few things for that build but to be honest this pair of cabs is more than I'll ever need. I used one with an ABM600 and it rattled my teeth.

Thanks for the great review. The Monaco seems incredibly competitively priced as you say, so much so that to me I can't see many people wanting to save the £100 by buying the Silverstone. My guess is that the £100 is purely the difference in parts cost and there's no luxury tax added on top that Apple seems to use quite extensively. To look closer to home, the Super Mini and the BB3 are £350 apart. That's not a criticism in any way. If anything, it's showing that stevie is not doing this for the money, and if you do decide to get one of his cabinets, you're getting a very very good deal. Sadly he released it just a little too late for me and I've committed my dime elsewhere, but in a parallel universe somewhere I'm probably a happy LfSys user.