Stub Mandrel

Saw an older couple with a very oddly shaped wooden case today (like an L-Tetris piece). Asked if it was a large saxophone. Thought they said it was a cittern, which confused me a bit as I couldn't see where the headstock would fit. They were headed for antique shop. Turned out it was a sitar of good make (I was assured by an apparently knowledgeable shop owner, who was expecting its arrival). Sadly without bridges or strings (drone or main) it looked in good condition 21 frets (I didn't count), wrapped in a golden throw inside it's padded case that was more sophisticated inside than out.

Tasteful. Subtle. Sophisticated...

Anyone got experience of a Tanglewood Indiana?

Anodising needs care, but as long as you have a large enough plastic tray your could anodise it yourself. I do anodising in my workshop. https://www.gaterosplating.co.uk/anodising-main

Hmm ... I don't think it's helped by the spring being too powerful. With a 2:1 mechanical advantage the spring could have a third of the force and still be more than secure. Suggestion - don't store fully closed, instead click it into the top hole. I think this will more than halve the force on the pivot.

I've had a few things with 'soft-touch' coatings become sticky and unpleasant. It is possible that these could interact with the underlying plastic and make it brittle.

One of my brothers loves ukeleles, he works with people who have autism and he uses them in what could be called 'music therapy' along with a variety of other instruments from simple egg shakers to a full drumkit. Ukes are very accessible instruments to play as it's much easier to learn a couple of chords than with a guitar. Another one of the things he does with people is get them to build them from inexpensive kits. The only objection I have is that awful re-entrant tuning.

Hmm... looks like high carbon tool steel from the shape of those sparks.

Possibly because it looks naff? Not questioning the quality, but unless you are looking for a Mesa it hardly leaps out as anything special, especially those grille screws.

My Arbiter triangle-type stand is about 30 years old and still going strong!

So my nice new stand which hasn't got a 'rubbery feel' coating should be OK?

Phew, I just bought one...

Perish the thought 🙂

I wonder if the edge treatment on the Jag SS (plus the satin finish) is behind why it 'feels' so much better than most budget basses and it's popularity?

My Squier VM Jaguar SS has got properly rolled edges, very nicely done and much more marked than any of my other basses/guitars but not as extreme as the Sire. Feels great. Here you go, more of a rounded bevel than the sire:

My sig says it all... 🙂

Playing style has a big effect on fret buzz. If you pluck hard near the bridge the string will vibrate with a lot of harmonics, so more vibration near the ends, and be more likely to buzz than if you are gently plopping the strings near the end of the neck. Some buzz won't come out when amplified, some will, more noticeable with pups near the bridge.

Get it anodised. 🙂

Cut dog plays stratocaster...

Ho! Ho! Retro Mojo!

I think some manufacturers are basically lazy and make fretless basses simply by leaving the frets off. Also, 'defretted' basses will be this way.

Agreed I took that as read otherwise there would have been twice as may options/variations!

My brother had a Squier Katana six-string. They inherited a headstock design and logo style from the performer(see sig)