itu

Is the dimmer for old bulbs or LEDs? Modern Schneider Exxact dimmer seems to work better than many other brands. If the dimming is flicker free, you should get less issues than with older phase cut systems. Shielding helps somewhat, but your pickups most probably are the window to buzz. You could try an age old pickup shield à la J bass (check M. Miller's natural J).

My tab has around 3000 - 4000 scores and this year only we have been playing +130 different songs. Audience is listening, and we need to play some customer favourites every now and then. Does not get boring. (String sets twice a year.)

I think MÖG is quite a lot like this, and its predecessor was a Quadrafuzz designed by Craig Anderton. https://dpw.se/product/mog-d1-4-band-distortion/ https://craiganderton.org/multiband-signal-processing/ I have had a MÖG but the adjustments were too aggressive for me. I think metal players use it somewhat.

If your pedals are not attached to a pedal board, buy one, and that OneSpot, too.

There's an old joke about musician that passed by a pub (or a music store). But not to buy anything sounds like an illness of some kind which has nothing to do with money.

If the woods are fine, and I mean ergonomics and feel, it is pretty simple to change electronics. There aren't too many basses I would buy only because of electronics. Well, Vigier Nautilus, Alembic series I and II, Peavey Cyberbass...

Piccolo strings should be considered, too. Recognition is faster.

My best find was a Lexicon PCM90 reverb. Maybe £100 or something. It was stolen few years later, and I got a good compensation from my insurance company.

One point: Magnetic material does not affect the sound nearly as much as the field does. Remember: Nd can be weaker than AlNiCo. Some pickup materials may affect magnetic field a little, but this is usually a minor detail. Another point: The geometry of the pickup has some effect on the inductance. One more detail is how the pickup is constructed, like is a J a stacked humbucker, or quadrocoil, or a simple singlecoil, or...

That's a very simple to fix if the pots can be seen. If they are not visible, then you need to remove the PCB. Not too complicated.

What do you mean by noisy? Scratcing? If so, use a bit of deoxit, not any oil at hand.

Neck: bolt-on, 24 frets, maple, widish. Body: very asymmetric. This is distinctive, and should lead us to the right brand.

I liked the bass, although the neck was very flexible. Electronics were from Status (treble booster) as well as noiseless single coils. Nice looking bass, but anything over £400 today would sound like a joke. A mint unit would cost more, but £1000 sounds like... stealing? Washburn isn't that retro. I had a chance to buy a hand made bolt on carbon neck copy, which is far better that Washburn. It's an instant back to 80's bass!

Bigger components just need more wattage. Temperature is the same with small and large components. Here's a very good chart of different materials: https://www.kester.com/knowledge-base/alloy-temperature-chart 63/37 is the old tin/lead.

Corvette / Porsche, Ampex / Sony, I don't drink coffee. Interesting thing has still been that americanos do lots of inventions. They are a bit like Philips, or Fender: great ideas, excellent billing of the authorized use, but products haven't been convincing since early 1980's.

I still rely on my age old Countryman. It may already be cheaper than B, because it works and works after all these years.

...but if F has bought timber for the next 200 years, a lightweight bass is coming in the near future. As an innovation.

Every dB and Hz means a lot in the low end. Those quoted frequency bands should also include the limits: ±3, or ±6, or maybe ±10 dB? If they are measured with different limits, you cannot compare the results.

Moving the cable may reveal if it is defect. Zero resistance is doable with a single strain, therefore the reading is not telling you anything else than that some part of the cable or the connectors are making contact. 300 W through a defective cable may ruin your amp. I think a new cable wouldn't be a mission impossible. You can use a 9 V battery to try the cab (and find its phase). Other than that you should open the cab and check if all cables are firmly attached.

I think my unofficial record was three gigs during one day, and four gigs in one weekend. Crazy, very heavy, but that was long ago. Playing a long gig, say four sets is doable, but carrying amp and bass around town is not. I am more than happy to do a gig every now and then - we do have rehearsals on a weekly basis - because that feeling is so strong. Playing by the bed is very different to being with friends, and then with audience. I love to be a weekend warrior nowadays, but all those gigs and theater stuff etc. has been very important to me. I still love to be able to produce good vibes to people with the band and my bass.

Don't go too far, check Theory and Technique. Our own @tomread, and @Chris B have produced such an incredible amount of stuff, not to exclude us mortals.

Hamer would be a real, and interesting possibility, but I think they have to concentrate on those reliced models. Skilled workforce beating pristine instruments - must be a nightmare. Fender marketing - because RnD is non existent - might drive Hamer to produce a P bass with some nice, limited run colour every year. Luthiery would be wasted, so they'd choose a CNC machine, and few Mexican construction workers. No, Fender is not about innovation, just marketing the tradition.