SpondonBassed

I remember Charles Aznavour!

Welcome BassAddsLife. Does this mean we might see your build in the Build Diaries?

Welcome Dave.

The bridge cover is sometimes affectionately known as the ashtray.

Welcome Jeff. Have you tried to tune it yet? You might be lucky enough to have got it set up to some sort of standard already. With a new instrument it is not always obvious how to get the best from it. As a new player you have the added complication of not yet knowing how you will be most comfortable with it. Satisfy yourself that the neck is true. A new instrument should be supplied with the truss rod set correctly for standard gauge strings. Usually, a neck (with strings tuned) will be straight but for the slightest visible bow towards the strings. Generally, string height should give enough clearance above the frets to eliminate fret buzz wherever you fret the string along the entire length of the fretboard. Sometimes a little buzz is acceptable but that's an individual thing and often has to do with the style of music being played. The clearance should not be so great that you can't fret a string without fouling the adjacent string. If you need to drop the string height significantly it might become necessary to adjust your pickup height relative to the new string height too. Make one small adjustment at a time and note the difference(s) to the sound and feel of the instrument. It's easiest to do adjustments in quarter turns of the allen key. Count the turns and apply them evenly to both sides of the saddle if the saddle height screws are in pairs with the saddles level. Soon you will get a feel for what's going on. If you need to adjust the truss rod tension or set individual saddles to get good intonation on individual strings, get specific advice for your instrument.

Welcome Most. My knowledge of East Anglian bands is limited to the Kipper Family (Henry and Sid) of Trunch.

Welcome Armitage. I enjoyed your YT clips. Great hat too.

Welcome Paul.

I think you need to consider making a similar adjustment to your pick ups as the strings now sit closer to them.

For some that would be the gross pay for a week's work! I'm not talking about a desk job either. Christmas Gifts Under £300

That'd have to be a serious marmalade sandwich habit.

I always had the suspicion that we are a bit of a laughing stock for anyone who has lived with snowy conditions for more than a week at a time. Thank you for that.

You suggest they are being mardy, I would hazard a guess and say that they are probably just nesh. I cannot comment on your assertion that they are also gets however because I am far too polite. Incidentally, what sort of incident would you have had in mind? A public flogging, a tar and feather dress rehearsal, waterboarding with melt water from the flurry of snowflakes that made them stop at home perhaps? Better luck next time.

May I suggest you do a video montage of the difficult bits of the trip so that it can be used as promotional material down the line? That sort of commitment ought to be recorded for posterity.

Is it rock wool? In any case, I am sure you will find a new home for it in the 'hood.

It's always good when folk who've been here a while join in.

Great news. I hope you get good use from it now. It looks reet smart like.

Welcome ProjectWerewolf.

I don't think the top coats will be compatible. You'd have to test everything to be certain. Time to call in @Andyjr1515 as he's been dabbling like a mad scientist in this area.

Then I'd suggest trying a test on a separate bit of similar timber. See if you can apply Linseed Oil as a first coat then use the grain filler followed by a top coat of Linseed Oil buffed back to a dry finish. It's not something I'd recommend. I do like the smell of Linseed Oil though so good luck.

Forum glitch. The reply box is not revealing that the post has hit the site. Sorry for the extra posts

Forum glitch. The reply box is not revealing that the post has hit the site. Sorry for the extra posts

I don't think Linseed Oil is like Tru Oil, Gun Oil, Danish Oil or Teak Oil. All of those are essentially thin varnishes. Apart from that, I can't see any reason why you can't use Linseed Oil. I'd do a test in the control cavity to see if the grain filler lifts after oiling to be certain. Similarly with top coats, do a test. PS: Linseed Oil is usually used to preserve wood from within and you'd want it to penetrate the pores. Grain filler will negate that. What was your reason for choosing Linseed Oil? Is it handy or something?

Welcome Olicor.

Welcome Joan.