thegummy

Jazz basses have more low end, precisions are more mid rangey. If you're comparing them played alone then a lot of people prefer the sound of a j bass, it's in a band that the p comes into its own.

Thanks for the reply. See, the description on that page is what I thought may be what is being meant but I don't know if it's true (assuming I'm not misunderstanding it). When I first heard of this I took a few songs I was in to at the time and wrote out the intervals of the bass line and found that chord tones weren't especially favoured over other notes. From my own playing experience, obviously the root note is massively favourable; the 5th sounds good but maybe cliche sometimes but the 3rd, for example, doesn't necessarily sound better than the 2nd or 4th. In fact, while I may be playing 3rds without thinking about it, when I've been mindful of trying to use 3rds it never really sounds right. I think I need to try and find time to study the intervals of a few more bass lines.

Thanks a lot, I very much appreciate your reply. I've never played anything with a chord like that before, maybe that's partly why I don't understand it if the approach comes in to play for chords like that.

I've seen a few interviews with Carole Kaye where she talks about it being much better to learn from a chordal approach instead of scales. I've heard similar things said elsewhere. I don't understand this though. Chords are made from scales. It can't mean to only play root, 3rd, 5th because loads of basslines use other notes. Can anyone explain what this means?

[quote name='Marc S' timestamp='1510158814' post='3404373'] It usually takes me longer than 10-15 mins. I always think it's going to be that quick.... [/quote] I'd agree with this! The other day I had a couple of hours before my girlfriend finished work so started rewiring my bass but then time went on and I had to come back to it after picking her up - definitely takes a while for me but time really flies when I'm concentrating on it.

One thing about Schecter is that they often come with "mods" pre installed. Think this might be a nod to the fact they started out as a mod shop. My jazz bass came with a push pull that coil taps the relatively hot pickups to give a more vintage output. Rarely see that on jazz basses. The ones made in Korea are made in World Musical Instruments which is a very highly regarded factory. If you Google it you'll likely find it being praised widely. It's the same factory who make PRS SE and the Chapman high end range as well as Ltd and others. Re: the mention of electronics, this may actually be a weak point as I've had a bit of an issue with the alpha pots they use.

Was looking at an old receipt the other day and was shocked to see how little I had to pay for my Schecter jazz brand new - 399 - cause I'm so used to its good quality. Makes me wonder how good their grand plus basses must be.

[quote name='alyctes' timestamp='1509802589' post='3401754'] Interesting how little visual change there is in the waveform on the different settings. Also the psychological difference. That's worth remembering, IMO, because I think it comes up all over the place - notably in the media (and advertising, whether it calls itself that or not). It definitely looks best with the white 'plate. [/quote] To be honest I've never found those analyzers useful at all, just a nice backdrop! Very good point you make about the psychological thing. It's amazing what we hear when we're expecting it. Forgot to mention that I adjusted the volume of each setting to be similar, they vary quite a lot.

Gutted no one seemed to find my mod interesting lol Made a demo video of all the 4 switching positions, maybe this will be more interesting? [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AMFN4kExtVk[/media] For the video it's recorded DI with a little compression and with the knobs set: neck:75%/bridge:100%/tone:100%

Hi all, just a post now I've finished modding my Schecter Diamond J bass. Here is how it started off: Then I decided to take off the black all-in-one pickguard and go for a bit of a Jaco look: Was a nice novelty for a bit but then I wanted to add a (possibly tort) pickguard. In order to see if a standard Fender Jazz pickguard would fit I printed off the template and cut it out and it fit in. Turns out to line up with the control plate properly, I had to drill some of the control cavity away so it could sit at the correct angle: After seeing how nice the white paper looked I decided to go for a white scratchplate: Very happy with the look now! I have also modded the electronics - I installed a selector switch in the extra hole (because the jack on this bass is on the side) that selects between full hot output and a coil-tap to provide a nice vintage tone. There is also a push-pull on the tone knob that switches between series and parallel. Something I've found with the switch since I installed it, compared to push-pulls it seems to have a psychological difference for me. With a push-pull, when it's pulled it seems as if it's set different but when pushed it's "standard" so that kind of sits at the back of my mind. With the switch it's just choosing between 2 settings with neither being seen as a "default".

The only set I could find were Stewart McDonald

[quote name='Manton Customs' timestamp='1509470023' post='3399224'] A standard set will be fine, you're talking about a few thousandths of an inch. You really don't want nut slots too tight, or they will pinch the string and cause serious tuning problems. Also try and keep the file dead straight with no wobbling or change of angle, otherwise you'll cut an even bigger slot than advertised. [/quote] Thanks for that. I see from your sig you're a luthier yourself which gives me confidence. So even the 15 thou difference on the A string will still be fine?

Definitely going to buy the proper files - I wish I'd bit the bullet and bought them in the first place before putting it in for the setup and they'd have already paid for themselves and more! The question is just - should I just get the nut files for the gauge the bass already is (45-65-85-105) or should I also get some specific ones closer to the actual gauges of the TI flats (43-56-70-100)? Note: I say "also" as I'll be getting the standard ones to do my other bass with.

I got my bass back from a setup but the nut action is a few thou higher than I'd like so I'm going to get nut files to adjust this and also to do my other bass's nut myself. The first bass has TI flats which are smaller gauge than standard strings. At the moment that isn't causing any problems in itself. Would it be okay to use the larger standard sized nut files to deepen the slots or would you advise getting the specific gauges for the flats?

Can't speak for him but I think he might be saying that since Sire sell headphones with his name on them that he quite possibly doesn't help design everything with his name on it. It's not a problem they use his name - I can't imagine the ghost of Les Paul had any input on those new Epiphones that are nothing like an actual Les Paul lol

I know his name from hearing a rapper say "Marcus Miller y'all!", Googling the name and being pleasantly surprised the bassist was getting a shout out

Which of the 2 would you guys use to accompany a singer and acoustic guitar?

[quote name='LewisK1975' timestamp='1509055364' post='3396408'] [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/185820-design-your-own-p-bass/page__fromsearch__1"]http://basschat.co.u...__fromsearch__1[/url] Don't say I didn't warn you, it's too much fun! [/quote] Nice!!

[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1509122099' post='3396855'] Didn't even notice that. A bit odd and, I agree, a bit restricting... Not sure if CTS do DPDT or not.... [/quote] Couldn't find any DPDT on my search. Even the SPST one they do looks odd to me - instead of 3 lugs like one side of a DPDT it's just 2 lugs on the bottom - not sure how it would even work for anything. Due to not finding any other brand, I've ordered an Alpha one - if that breaks then I think I'll go down the route of a custom plastic scratchplate that covers the pickguard and control cavity then I can drill a few holes for standalone switches.

[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1509090279' post='3396489'] Axesrus.co.uk sell the CTS push pulls nowadays, including a metric 8mm version. I would be surprised if they are not very good. [/quote] I had no idea CTS now do the metric sized pots - will be using these from now on. Unfortunately, that site only has a SPST push-pull by CTS; is that all that's available?

May I ask how you made the examples?

[quote name='Cato' timestamp='1509040768' post='3396273'] White on black reminds of the cheap and nasty basses of my youth. [/quote] See my Squier guitar from my pre teen years was white on black so I have a bias against it even though it does look nice. Tort only works with a rosewood fretboard. My vote is for the black. Like Roger Waters (though that looks even better because of the black hardware).

Appreciate that mate. Ideally I'd put in a couple of separate switches than a push pull but I only have space for one on the control plate and don't know that I could drill through it. An option would be to get a custom plastic scratchplate that also covered the control capacity. Would kind of annoy me though cause I went to a lot of bother converting the schecter to have the metal control plate in the first place. Is three such a thing as a unit with 2 switches but the size of one pot?

Is anyone aware of another brand (than Alpha) of push-pull pots that fit import guitars (i.e. diameter of the bushing being under 8mm)? Had a couple of Alpha ones go bad fairly quickly (although I've not really had problems with Alpha's normal pots) but any other brand I can find are the imperial size that are too big for my control plate.

[quote name='lojo' timestamp='1508742531' post='3394035'] What does Modern Pbass actually mean ? [/quote] To put round wounds on and with a pickup like a SD Quarter Pound. Not actually sure how much that pickup differs from the pickup in the 50s - rounds are the main reason I want another P.