thegummy

[quote name='markdavid' timestamp='1485652149' post='3225645'] Flatwounds often have an E that sounds different but this usually goes once the strings are broken in, if they are new/newish give them a bit longer and see if the E calms down a bit [/quote] Perhaps this has to do with it and that the reason it was in my head is because it was prominent when I first got the strings but the reason it can't be heard in the recording is because it's been broken in. Thanks for all the feedback guys, I think at this point I'll continue with these. Saved me 40 quid

[quote name='anzoid' timestamp='1485616060' post='3225337'] Yeah, not hearing a difference - and prior to listening I'd been playing my own P-bass for about an hour and wondering whether I've got everything setup right - and it sounds just like yours I think that sometimes what we hear, particularly when playing at home on our own through a small amp, is a combination of what's coming out of the amp, the acoustic sound of the bass and the feel of the vibrations as you play - and the sum is (obviously) more than what you get if you're just recording the output of the bass into a soundcard or something. I think even sitting down to play can make a difference as the bass can be higher than when on a strap and that makes the normal creaks and sympathetic vibratins of the bass more prominent... Anyway, just an observation from my own playing quietly (relatively...) at home versus standing up and playing loud versus recording my bass. [/quote] That seems to make a lot of sense

[quote name='Chiliwailer' timestamp='1485543033' post='3224859'] Wonder how the MIM Rogers Waters model will do after The Wall [/quote] Damn you beat me to it!

Weirdly when I come back and listen to the recording I don't really hear it like I do when I'm playing it. Maybe it's all in my mind. How embarrassing.

See if anyone thinks there is a difference or if I'm imagining it. Again, excuse the playing I'm still a novice. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DffcUdSCmfo

What I'm going to do is record a wee video and if you can all look past my poor playing you can tell me if maybe I'm just tripping about this or if it's a noticeable issue.

Thanks for the reply Howie. It's defo not fret buzz, it's just a more metallic tone. I've had it on and off 2 different basses several times now, always has that metallic twang. It's hard to describe. If only flatwound bass strings weren't so expensive I'd just buy a different set to try it. Probably will just do that anyway.

I have a set of Rotosound flatwounds where the E string sounds completely different to the other strings. It has a metallic twang whereas the other 3 have a uniform tone to them. Is this something that happens with flatwounds? I've never experienced this with many packets of guitar strings or with the 4 or 5 packets of roundwound bass strings I've tried but this is the only flats I've ever tried. I'm tempted to try another brand (D'Addario) of flats as I otherwise do like them but is there something about the way flats are made that make the E string sound so much different?

Been looking at a good few p players, most seem to play over the pickup unless they're specifically varying the tone. I'm surprised people don't hit the pickup, I must have been plucking really hard this whole time I've been playing.

[quote name='Cato' timestamp='1484871663' post='3219389'] It's all down to personal comfort of course, but I'd say if your fingertips are hitting the pickups, either the pickup is too high or you're digging too deep. [/quote] Think I must be a deep digger! Been enjoying playing it just to the left of the pickup. Man this bass...where have you been all my life

Just got my first P Bass. It's amazing but I'll save all that for the NBD post when the custom pickguard arrives. Question I have for you P players is where do you tend to pluck? On a J I was always used to plucking right between the pickups which worked well cause i rested my thumb on the neck pup. I looked at my favourite P player, Pino, and he plucks right over the pickup but it feels strange to me hitting the pickup with my fingers. Is that where it's generally plucked?

Any examples of a Squier actually selling for more than a new Fender? I don't know why anyone would pay that lol

[quote name='Basscabman' timestamp='1484531251' post='3216171'] Is there not an old passive Squier PJ back from the 90's that was supposed to be a JV contender? [/quote] Ah sorry I thought you meant currently available. No idea. I can see you're a big Squier fan!

There isn't really much choice is there? There's the Vintage Modified Precision and the short scale Jaguar from what I can see.

[quote name='FinnDave' timestamp='1484445054' post='3215558'] Congrats, I have a similar bass and am just back from gigging it (again). Black with black scratchplate and a maple neck & board, makes for a very good looking P bass. [/quote] Definitely a classic combo! Roger Waters baby!

In basically every area there is, there is always rebellion against the most popular brand.

[quote name='simonlittle' timestamp='1484304054' post='3214462'] The used one did look exactly the same as the brand new one! Although it played a lot better due to the lovely setup. Apparently Flea himself had been in and played the new one... [/quote] Well they've only been out a few months, I doubt it was [i]that[/i] used lol

I am looking to do exactly the same thing. I emailed a laser cutting company with the link to the tort material. They said they do not work with celluloid.

[quote name='chris_b' timestamp='1484265206' post='3214284'] Checkout the various Lakland basses in the classifieds. [/quote] They tend not to have Fender written on the headstock

[quote name='Manton Customs' timestamp='1484180901' post='3213426'] Routers as Tbay suggested work fine. I would bandsaw close to the line, template rout, then rout the the bevel. Alternatively you could bandsaw/jigsaw up close to the line then lots of sanding! Have you tried "scratch it" they do custom jobs and would be cheaper than a luthier. [url="http://www.originalscratchplates.com/"]http://www.originalscratchplates.com/[/url] [/quote] Wow this looks to be exactly what I want!!! Do you know if they'd be able to do a copy of an existing pickguard or even already have the template for a relatively rare shape like the Schecter Diamond J that I want? Never mind, I should have read the site before asking. Now that you've showed me this site I have to think if I want a custom print or just stick to tortoise!

[quote name='T-Bay' timestamp='1484172413' post='3213368'] Do you have any handy friends? It really isn't a complex job and a router isn't uncommon in a toolkit of people who dabble in diy. As for getting someone to do it for you, I would guess that most luthiers would do it, probably in a bandsaw which would be a quicker way to do it. And I would guess that most woodworkers would be able to do it but no idea if they would be happy to take it on (and good old fashioned woodworking places are few and far between these days and tend to do high end stuff so may not be cheap). [/quote] Was just speaking to my friend who's a graphic designer and has access to automated routing machines and he said at first he'd do it but when I showed him the price of the blank plastic he said I should get it lasered cause he wouldn't want to risk it

[quote name='T-Bay' timestamp='1484171162' post='3213359'] You could cut a pattern in wood and then attach the plastic to it and use a router with flush cut bit to make a nice edge. You would also have the benefit that it would be easy to make more than one if needed. [/quote] To be honest I don't fancy DIYing it. Any idea what kind of place I could go to for that service?

[quote name='Westenra' timestamp='1484142383' post='3212975'] I run the CNCs at my modelshop so I just slapped one on when there was no work on. Pretty fortunate in that respect! [/quote] Are they laser cutters or do they use a blade?

[quote name='Bassassin' timestamp='1484139058' post='3212933'] I've done a few. Most recently I replaced the original white plate on a Yamaha SBV500 with a rather more vulgar pearl red. I don't have any power tools adequate for cutting scratchplate material (I have a scroll saw but it's far too inaccurate to do anything but rough cutting) so this was largely done by hand. I used the original plate as a template - using the screwholes on the original, I attached the old plate & the blank to a suitably-sized piece of wood so everything was clamped tightly together. Then I scored around the outline of the original, removed the old plate then drilled millions of holes around the shape of the new plate, as close to the score lines as possible. That made it quite easy to cut out the rough shape of the new plate using a combination of scroll saw & hand tools. Fortunately scratchplate material is quite soft & easy to work because then it was a matter of filing the rough edges to meet the score line & achieve the correct finished dimensions. I didn't trust myself to accurately shape a 45 degree bevel so I settled for a straight edge with the top rounded off a little. The plastic had a protective layer on it while I worked so most of it stayed intact, but any minor scuffs on the top surface polished out with T-Cut. I'm pretty pleased with how it turned out: This is the biggest job I've undertaken & it did take a good few hours - previously I've done a half-sized plate & various trcs so have got reasonably confident with the material. Planning a custom-shaped plate for a Rickenfaker project at the moment. [/quote] That's very impressive! I definitely won't be going the hand route but I'm impressed you've done it so well. Good job.

Anyone ever bought a blank sheet of pickguard material (such as the ones that WD Music sell) and cut their own pickguard? How would you go about doing it? What kind of place could you take it to to cut it for you?