thegummy

When I first bought a bass I went for a Jazz because I read on various forum posts people saying that the Jazz can be made to pretty much sound like a P but a P can't be made to sound like a Jazz. Now that I've had both for a while I know that it's absolutely not true that the J can sound like a P - it always sounds completely different regardless of settings. So, whichever one you prefer (if you can't have both), I just feel it will be helpful to anyone coming across this thread in future to know not to go for a J expecting it to be the best of both worlds.

Do you happen to have any more details about that test? Were there enough examples used that a coincidence could be deemed unlikely re: the rosewood preference? I'm guessing the test was solo bass though; your point about the mix is a very good one - bass more than any other instrument sounds completely different in the mix to solo.

Surprised to see how big of a difference you feel it makes, usually it seems to be debated between none and subtle

Ah yeah sorry, meant to say rounds on rosewood in the second like. Thanks for replies everyone. It does seem sensible to try both out. After spending a good chunk of last night swapping my only current precision to rounds (because it needs to be set up for the differing tension and my bass has the fairly annoying neck joint truss rod adjustment) I was looking for a shortcut but I suppose I only have to do it at first and make a decision. Cheers

If you had 2 P-basses; one for flats and one for rounds, and one with a maple fretboard, one with rosewood (or similar)... Would you put rounds on the maple board bass to further exaggerate the brightness and flats on the rosewood to further exaggerate the warmth? Or put the the rounds on the maple board bass to slightly tame the brightness back in and the flats on the maple board bass to "brighten" it up?

Didn't see anything very exciting but on a practical note - I'm looking to possibly buy a Classic Vibe P and they released a couple of extra colours which I may well prefer.

Didn't get the pm ??

I've seen (and admired) the first one on another forum but both are absolute crackers, well done. Partscaster is an option but the paint job puts me off, it looks like a time consuming process that I just wouldn't be able to do.

I won't be buying until at least next year but just to give me a rough idea, how much are you selling it for?

Anyone know any options for buying a single-coil style P-bass that are (preferably a good bit) under a grand? The only one I can find is the Harley Benton that's actually under £100 and it gets a lot of rave reviews but hard to be confident of a bass at that price. I see Squier used to make what would be the perfect option but no longer make it. Any others?

Hahaha love this

That yellow p bass looks so much nicer than any of the current mim standard models!

The race red PJ is the one I like the look of! The slim neck thing is a bit disappointing though, will need to try it out first.

How bad were the frets before you worked on them? Unfortunately fretwork isn't something I can do. Thanks for all the suggestions! Squier Affinity seems a popular choice and there's a very nice looking one. Going to check out the one on sale here.

My main bass is a 50s Precision which I love but sometimes when I have a band practice after work I don't want to leave it in my car all day so I take along my Schecter J bass which is less precious/expensive. No matter how much I try to not care about the tone, it always just annoys me because I just want it to sound like a P. Any recommendations for the cheapest P bass that you'd actually find acceptable to play? I wouldn't want to go so cheap that it just felt bad but the sound doesn't have to be top notch as long as it sounds like a Precision.

What does the maple cap neck mean? AndyTravis - best wishes to the baba

Really? I might be mis remembering but I thought I had measured a few and found the p to be in the same place. That's why I ask this question; if it's different then the answer is obvious. I'll need to measure again.

If you were going to buy a P-Bass and the exact same one was available but with a good J pickup also installed for the same price, would there be any downside to taking the PJ aside from if you think it would look worse? Is there a compromise compared to just a P-bass or is the worst thing that could happen is that the J pickup sit there unused and redundant?

For me passive pickups are superior. I don't mind the tuners on it, I wouldn't be against swapping for better but the tuners are fine to me. The saddle screws are annoying though but as you say, it's not exactly something I'm altering on a regular basis so might just leave them.

Fair enough if that's someone else's cup of tea - I personally really dislike using (IMO) inferior parts purely to be vintage correct.

Is it possible to swap the flat-slotted screwdriver screws that adjust the saddles on the Fender Classic 50s P-bass with screws with a hex top? If so, what size screws would be needed?

Best way I found was to put them in jiffy bags then keep them all in a tin similar to a biscuit tin.

Lol I like that answer

I have a bunch of sets of bass strings that I've tried out but are far from actually worn out. Anyone have any good tips for a good way to store them?

I've bought wd music ones and they're great. Heard bad things about cheap tort though so for tort I went with genuine fender.