Protium

Make a mock up enclosure out of card before you drill the metal one - make sure everything fits

[quote name='RhysP' post='655959' date='Nov 16 2009, 01:56 PM']Why not just buy a multimeter? You can use them for 1000s of other things as well as testing batteries & a good basic one can be bought for less than a tenner.[/quote] +1

P bass pickup received quickly, ace.

ODB-3 with some tweaking on the settings

USPS was about $120 for mine and it arrived still in tune [u]2 months[/u] later (don't get anything sent over xmas/new year )

My precision is 33.5" :S

[quote name='bassanton' post='647962' date='Nov 7 2009, 11:33 AM']This problem may be due to a lot of reasons, from a bad pup to inexpressive woods. A common issue on Fenders is strings not aligned with pup poles. This is a structural prob, but you or an experienced luthier can fix it. In vintage style bridges, an easy way of 'fixing' this is putting a little coin between the right saddles (in your case it would be between the E and the A string saddles). [b]With a Badass this is not an option, unfortunately.[/b] Try to raise the upper pup 1-2mm to compensate the higher action. Don't have much hope on this, though... Cheers[/quote] With the Badass II you cut slots in the saddles to correctly align the strings

Catastrophic amount of sustain.

My Pedulla was in transit from the USA for nearly 2 months caught up in the xmas/new year post and still turned up in tune

Four Kappalite 3015s will do the trick

[quote name='OldGit' post='638028' date='Oct 27 2009, 03:27 PM']Playing the right notes is about 40% of your job. Looking cool, 20%; Looking like you are having a good time and communicating that to the audience 50% and performing is 100%[/quote] Why is my job 210%?

Tried one, was OK for a fiver. Picked up the E string best using the 12th fret harmonic, the other strings were fine

[quote name='spike' post='633819' date='Oct 22 2009, 08:45 PM']It sometimes happens to me when the drummer is counting the song in. As long as I can remember what the first note is the rest of it comes back to me.[/quote] +1, but only seems to happen on really basic stuff

Couldn't get the action low enough due to the massive base plate. Went back to the Gotoh 203 - bent tin done properly

They do nothing tbh, by the time they've absorbed as much vapour in the air as they can (when the crystals are pink which will happen very quickly in open air) they're useless. You can renew them by leaving in the oven at just over 100C, once they turn blue they're done but won't last very long

No problem. The orange drops are higher quality components that are reasonably cheap and popular replacements. I would go with the 715P (polypropylene film) series if possible

683 = 0.068uF (micro Farad). The larger this value the more highs can be rolled off by the tone pot. Standard Fender is 0.047uF (marked 473). The J means it is 5% tolerance. I've never noticed any difference between 250k and 500k pots, but it alleged that they can affect the tone (someone else will know more about this). Just note that the tone will be a linear taper and the volume a log/audio taper Quick edit: If you're planning to rewire it definitely go for a kit similar to this: [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350265838473"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...em=350265838473[/url]

Them bridge rails look wonky as hell

Pretty much anything by Mastodon

a.P.A.t.T. are supposed to be supporting them at the Leeds show which will be fantastic

How do your playing dynamics transfer through the system? I play with a lot of attack to get "my tone", but I can't see that coming through a wireless the same as a cable...