Protium

Also one time my bandmates were looking for me as we were due on stage within minutes. I was happily passed out on a sofa under a load of coats

[quote name='agoulding' post='613448' date='Sep 30 2009, 11:39 PM']Thats sounds like a fudging good gig[/quote] It was, I think the band before us were glad they went on first

We once played a friend of a friends party at our local conservative club where we were offered free drinks all night. We take advantage of this. We start and immediately get complaints from neighbours either side about the noise, one of whom claimed pictures were falling off her wall. After 2 songs the bartender literally runs over and asks me to tell everyone to turn down... Guitarist asks "what did he say?", my reply "can't hear the guitar mate", set continues at fult tilt. Next thing the singer has spat a gobful of beer/spit/phlegm into a ceiling fan and soaked everyone/everything in a 10m radius, cue call to the police, our departure and 'aftershow party' at a nearby friends house. Pretty much the best gig I've played.

I can but don't like to outside of private practice The guitarist thinks it's awesome and insists on me playing something every band practice [quote name='Hot Tub' post='605827' date='Sep 22 2009, 05:08 PM']Unless you're Mark King or Marcus Miller, don't bother. These guys (and possibly a very few others) make it sound sort of musical-ish, but otherwise it's just Yo-look-at-me-I'm-faster-and-therefore-better-than-you showing off.[/quote] [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rqkMsXcHQYg"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rqkMsXcHQYg[/url]

[quote name='iamapirate' post='611369' date='Sep 28 2009, 10:27 PM']Really? With mine it's silent at 0, and then at about 1 or 2 ( or 7 o'clock) it suddenly turns into a BEAST! Oh and I put this through my Hartke preamp with full grit and harmonics and got myself a perfect supermassive black hole tone [/quote] I know it is silent at 0. I said to start at zero because you don't know how loud it is going to be if you first switch it on at 50% or 100% do you?

I had a dual coil in the bridge position of a Squire VM jazz which sounded nice and clear but the output was pretty quiet (passive). I've got a Bart soapbar in my Pedulla with 2 band Bart preamp which sounds awesome.

When you first power it up set the volume to zero, this is a very loud pedal

Fantomas - "Spider Baby" [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QZU6Z3JX1rA"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QZU6Z3JX1rA[/url]

[url="http://www.shxmusic.com/15l.htm"]http://www.shxmusic.com/15l.htm[/url]

Whichever one is louder when you plug the bass in is the "passive" input. It makes no difference really unless you are really loud (and can't turn down any more) or really quiet (and can't turn up any more) on the VU meter

[quote name='cm261' post='603909' date='Sep 20 2009, 08:26 PM']Ahhh I see. The 100uF electrolytic caps come in 16/25/35/etc V types, what difference does this make, if any? The only 220nF's stocked by bitsbox are 'Multilayer' ceramic capacitors, is this what I'm looking for?[/quote] The pedal runs on 9V so anything rated above this will be OK, a 100uF 10V or 16V will be fine. The multilayer caps will be fine, they're the ones I used

[quote name='budget bassist' post='603525' date='Sep 20 2009, 01:01 PM']and aren't those ashdown ABMs amazing amps? [/quote] Aye, not bad Duno where the "wooly" or unreliable rep came from, certainly not the case with mine...

The black/white ones are electrolytic caps (http://www.bitsbox.co.uk/ecaps.html) which are polar, i.e. they need to be placed in the circuit board the correct way round. You need two 100uF of these. The black/black ones are standard caps, the ceramic ones from bitsbox will be fine, you require two 10nF and two 220nF. These can be connected either way round

[quote name='cm261' post='603831' date='Sep 20 2009, 07:07 PM']Hey there, looking to build one of these 'fuzz clones', using this schematic [url="http://img60.imageshack.us/img60/5816/woollysd1.jpg"]here[/url], but while the 10k pots are available [url="http://www.bitsbox.co.uk/resistors/potentiometers.html"]here[/url] (does it matter which of these 10k pots i go for?), they do not have the 2k or 500k pots. Could I use a 1k instead of the 2k? I assume the 470k would be fine as a replacement for the 500k? Also I have no idea where to start with [url="http://www.bitsbox.co.uk/caps.html"]capacitors[/url], so translating the caps on that schematic into what I would actually need to buy from there would be very much appreciated. In case it wasn't painfully obvious this will be my first attempt at anything like this Cheers EDIT: By the way, let me know if I need to remove that schematic link.[/quote] You need linear pots all round. 470k will be fine in place of 500k. I used a 4.7k pot with a 3.5k resistor in parallel for the 2k pot, but there is little difference at the bottom end of the range, am going to test a 1k pot on the next one. Actually looking on Bitsbox, there is a 2k2 linear pot 3rd option down, the blue one I just used normal ceramic caps, and make sure your electrolytics are 10V or higher spec

ABM 300 EVO II Schroeder 1210L Pedulla Rapture

I'd have thought it was common sense to have the strap button "cradled" tbh...

sh*t, I was looking for a quiet one

[quote name='chris_b' post='601077' date='Sep 17 2009, 09:53 AM']I don't understand why people want to buy Schaller strap locks and then start various DIY projects to get around the problems and design shortcomings in order to make them safe! I don't buy any other stuff that I have to fix it before it works! I know I'm old fashioned, but I expect to get strap locks that work right out of the packet. That seems to be any make of strap lock other than Schaller!![/quote] My Schaller's worked straight out of the packet, I just screwed the supplied screws in no problem...

Both the guitarist and me pool ideas, but I find it 10000 times easier to write stuff on the guitar...

You all have messages

The rest have gone in the bin, tired of f***ing about and I want them off my desk

A lot of "The Directors Cut" by Fantomas

[quote name='alexclaber' post='583671' date='Aug 28 2009, 03:52 PM']Definitely easier though to have fixed gain stages and then passive attenuators in front![/quote] And more importantly, cheaper

[quote name='Oxblood' post='39703' date='Jul 31 2007, 08:26 PM']In a typical instrument amp, the first "Volume Control" you find is simply a pot placed in the signal path - just like the one we find in a passive guitar or bass, between the pickups and the jack socket. All it does is act as a [i]potential divider[/i]: a variable resistance that bleeds some of the signal away to earth and allows the rest through to the next amplifying stage. Turn it up full, and all (or nearly all) of the signal gets through. Like a water tap, it's a purely passive device. It can't give out more than is being fed in. In some amps this first pot is positioned directly after the jack input itself, but more commonly these days it is placed after an initial amplifying or buffer stage. Either way, the effect is the same. Likewise, the "Master Volume" or "Output Level" control is another passive pot, placed at the point where the signal leaves the pre-amp/EQ circuitry and is being fed to the input of the Power Amp.[/quote] I guess they call it a "volume control" because it is a control that changes the volume? I don't see how else an "output volume" could be achieved - sticking a potentiometer AFTER the power amp would need seriously heavy duty parts, would mess with the amplifier load and would generate a lot of heat.