dave_bass5

I have mine at 2mm at the 12th fret if i can get it. I also like to shim my necks so the action stays pretty much at 2mm right up to the last fret. It doesn't bother me too much lower down the neck but i prefer to not have too much of a gap past the 12th. I also tend to lower the pups a bit.

[quote name='Alfie' post='994522' date='Oct 20 2010, 10:27 AM']The only time I swapped pots for supposedly better CTS ones, the CTS ones were a lot cracklier, so I swapped back again. Definitely snake oil IMHO. Considering resale value, I would only part with cash for an "upgraded" bass if the work was done by a professional, otherwise the bass has been tampered with and is worth a lot less (IMHO).[/quote] Well as i said, i want a Linear pot for the volume so i will change that for a reason. Ive never had to change pots before, as ive not had any problems with them so ill leave the tone pot as it is. The good thing about selling on here is its easy to follow a basses history so i dont think many people worry too much who has done minor work, as long as it all works as it should/as advertised i think most people are happy. And as we know, not all "professionals" are professionals.

Cheers Guys. I saw that ebay shop yesterday but its good to know he is reliable.

[quote name='tedgilley' post='994029' date='Oct 19 2010, 08:06 PM']I did get in touch with Wizard's US distributor, Jade Guitars, in Herndon, Virginia, after emailing Andy. The Wizard Jazz 84s can be had over here for only about $10 over the price of top-line Duncans and Bartolinis, so I may go with the Wizards. tg[/quote] Nice one. Ive just replied to your PM about them but i forgot to add that they do seem to give a more articulated, more defined tone, especially to the higher notes. You may find the 84's a bit dark sounding, i did with my CV Jazz but as ive explained, Andy will do you a custom wind that will give you a bit of 84's and 64's, called 74's (no surprise there) I think a few of us have had these done. Im not sure how you stand to get this done in the USA though.

[quote name='umph' post='990082' date='Oct 16 2010, 12:05 PM']personally i'd get in touch with wizard pick ups[/quote] +1. I had Wizards in my CV Jazz and they really made a nice difference. As the OP is in the USA it might work out cheaper for him to buy one of the bigger brands over there.

[quote name='Cyrene' post='993408' date='Oct 19 2010, 12:31 PM']Hi. Would a standard Fender bridge cover fit over the high mass Squier CV bridge or a Fender BadAss II? Cheers[/quote] The blue CV P comes with a bridge cover, the red one doesn't but does have the HM bridge. It might be worth checking the dimensions of the standard bridge to see if its any wider than the HM one. Im pretty sure it a cover wont fit though.

[quote name='Bobby K' post='993454' date='Oct 19 2010, 01:10 PM']Do you mean the CV P bass? Apart from putting Seymour Duncan SPB-1's in, all I've done is change the capacitor to a 0.047 Orange drop. There's definitely a difference from the old cap (which was 0.068mf) - the tone variation used to be pretty unremarkable, but now there seems a definite gradual difference as you turn the pot. I did think about putting CTS's in but I think it would not make much difference, as Ou7shined said earlier. The bass just sounds a bit more exciting than it did stock now[/quote] Cheers. Yes, the CV P is the one im getting. Since i started this (yet another wiring) thread ive done some research and i guess ill give the cap change ago, and also put a linear CTS pot in for a more gradual volume change. Ill do a couple of gigs first with it as stock, as long as it all works ok, then change the above and probably the pup as well. Thanks all for the help.

[quote name='chris_b' post='993452' date='Oct 19 2010, 01:10 PM']This is like Groundhog Day!!![/quote] Not for me its not ;-)

[quote name='Bobby K' post='993444' date='Oct 19 2010, 01:00 PM']I'm learning all the time myself Dave, I'm deffo not an expert, but I definitely saw a marked difference, for the better, with the orange drop. I'm sure others will back me up on this too. Instead of on-off tone pot, you tend to get a smoother transition, from wooly at 0 to clear defined tone at 10 (on the tone pot)[/quote] Cheers. Ive only just noticed you also have the same bass so i guess that makes you the expert. Do you think its worth just changing that to start with rather than the pots? What im confused about (still) is that the kit i posted above says as used on modern Fenders, yet the cap is 0.1mf disc capacitor. I like the tone the MIA's get so how different will a .047 sound?

Thanks again Bobby. Ive read that name a few times but never really looked in to it as it wasn't something i was interested back then. I assume there isnt really much difference wit hone of these and the one thats already in the bass, other than the look. Sorry of all the basic questions. I just want this to be a one time job so want to get it right first time, although as i expect it to be my back up bass for a while i am open to messing with it. In fact i plan on putting my CV Jazz neck on it as well.

[quote name='Bobby K' post='993419' date='Oct 19 2010, 12:38 PM']A Sprague Orange Drop cap, to give it its full title. Most people seem to be using the 0.047mf version[/quote] Thanks. So is this just a brand of cap or is it different from say another .047mf cap? I want to keep it all pretty standard.

[quote name='Ou7shined' post='993338' date='Oct 19 2010, 11:38 AM']That's a fair enough reason to put new in pots. It wouldn't warrant swapping out the entire loom though.[/quote] The main reason i thought about the kit was because its all the right parts in one place. Im not really bothered about the wires to be honest. John, im not really sure what a Sprague cap is im afraid. Its all new to me :-(although i will investigate all this a bit more one i get the bass and know what im going to do) Im also probably going to put a Fender original or 62RI pup in if i dont get on with the stock pup. Again, im going by the CV Jazz and that seemed to lack punch compared to my other Jazzes, and i do like the tone of the MIA P.

To be honest i agree with you. Thats why ive never done anything like this before. I do find the volume and tone knobs on my CV Jazz are more like on/off switches, especially compared to my old Lakland that had a nice range of control over both. Thats really the only reason im thinking of changing things. Im not on a hunt to get a perfect 60s' tone or authentic wiring or anything like that, just something that might work a bit better. Im happy to admit i might even be on the wrong track and it might just be a pup thing. I dont really want to experiment with caps, and if the one i linked to is the same as in a MIA P thats good enough for me.

First off, i haven't got the bass yet. Its ordered and on its way though. I do plan on putting a Wizard thumper in as soon as i can but as i haven't even heard the bass yet maybe ill not need to. Anyway, one thing most people seem to do is change the pots and wiring. This is one area i haven't ventured in to before. My soldering skills are fine, and i can follow the SD wiring diagram so im pretty confident i can do it. I think its the cap values im not too clear on. Should i get like for like or change it for one that will work better? So, knowing that most people use CTS pots ive found this kit on line and it looks like it will do the job. Im not really after recreating a certain vintage tone, i just want something a bit more sturdy and reliable, with better/smoother control over the volume and tone. I find my CV Jazz to be almost all or nothing so im basing my assumption on this. Anyone care to have a look at this link and tell me if it will do the job, or if there is something better i should look at. And if this kit is ok will i need to get some new knobs? Cheers. [url="http://www.guitarpartsshop.co.uk/acatalog/Precision-Bass-Wiring-Kit.html"]P bass wiring.[/url]

[quote name='mrawlins' post='988763' date='Oct 15 2010, 03:18 AM']Hi guys So the scratchplate and shield arrived yesterday from Darren Riley- thanks again Jon and everyone else for your contributions. The Fender 62 RI scratchplate fits the Squier CV perfectly and looks so much classier! I also installed a 62 RI pickup, CTS audio taper pots, a switchcraft jack and period correct knobs to complete the pimping.[/quote] That new PG does look a lot nicer. Im hoping to order a CV P tomorrow and will also need to change the PG. Did you find out if the standard MIM PG would fit? It looks like it should. I had the PG off my MIA and also my HW-one and they both fit my CV Jazz, but i need one that doesn't have the truss rod cut out and the MIM looks ideal. Im also considering a black PG but i would have to see the CV P in the flesh first to see if that would work. Love the sound clip as well.

[quote name='Musicman20' post='992118' date='Oct 18 2010, 12:23 PM']Wow, they still have 2008s? I was told by a Fender chap that in the USA they had a massive lack of stock for a few months and were waiting to catch up, therefore any sunburst MIA Jazzes were going to be 6 weeks at the least....not sure if thats changed recently. You would imagine that they would have definitely had new stock since 08! Bloomin heck.[/quote] I did think it strange at the time. I checked each serial number and they were all 2008. I thought 2008 was the year QC went up.

[quote name='Musicman20' post='992092' date='Oct 18 2010, 11:57 AM']I thought there was an issue with a high fret on one of mine a while back...I changed the strings and adjusted the string height a little (they were WAY too low) and it disapeared, as did any fret buzz. I was pleased! Not saying that higher frets dont occur, as we all know they do. Luckily this time it wasnt that. I agree, for the new retail prices, despite my love for the new MIAs, I think they are slowly started to creep back to QC issues. A massive shame. Either that or im pickier as I get older, (definitely needs to be factored in!)[/quote] Well the MIM 70's classic i had for less than 24 hours (before the MIA's) definitely had a 11th fret that stopped me getting a low enough action that felt comfortable. I like a 2mm action at the 12th fret and dont think its unreasonable to expect to get it on any bass. The HW-one also has this but as its so far up its not really an issue for me. The MIA's were all 2008's, even though i brought them new, so maybe QC is actually better on the 2009-2010 basses. Ive got a bit pickier as ive got older although i try and keep it in perspective. Thats why im now keeping my sights on the lower end of the market.

[quote name='Donnyboy' post='992034' date='Oct 18 2010, 10:52 AM']However if I'd shelled out a lot of dosh on a top of the range bass -I wouldn't expect to have any niggles & if I did I'd be a little, ahem, disappointed.[/quote] This is exactly how i felt with the MIA's recently. None of them were unplayable and i could easily have kept any of them but for almost £1000 i felt i shouldn't have to put up with a second rate job. My HW-one has a high 19th fret but as it cost a lot less im a bit more forgiving (plus i have no need to play that high so its not a problem)

This was the neck pocket on a MIM 50s' Classic i had. Bloody awful.

Well i haven't played the P so can't comment other than to quote the official specs. There is a huge CV thread on TB so I'm sure the answer is there. I do like the idea of the P having the vintage frets though. That's a plus in my book and the big reason I was going to buy Neils P ;-)